<![CDATA[bypassing the lead wire]]>is there a way to bypass the lead wire on my amp? It worked fine for about a week, then stopped working. I transfered it to my blazer and hooked it up and it works fine, so I know its not broken. I replaced the fuze holder (cuz it was broken) but that didnt fix it. So now the only thing I can think of is the lead wire. The car its in is a bitch to get the deck out so I dont really want to do that if I dont have to. Any ideas??

clifs:how do I bypass the lead wire?

]]>https://fargostreet.com/topic/1456/bypassing-the-lead-wireRSS for NodeThu, 28 May 2026 02:05:14 GMTThu, 27 Jan 2005 01:13:04 GMT60<![CDATA[Reply to bypassing the lead wire on Thu, 27 Jan 2005 08:30:53 GMT]]>

jct_4628 wrote:
well now we broke up so I might ask for it back! haha...then I could have 2 amps in my blazer and it would look like hydraulics! 😄

and then get the vire vwheels on it essay, youll have it all then 😄 J/K

]]>https://fargostreet.com/post/26747https://fargostreet.com/post/26747Thu, 27 Jan 2005 08:30:53 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to bypassing the lead wire on Thu, 27 Jan 2005 06:24:07 GMT]]>

mwc1 wrote:
I gave you a good amp on that deal for you to put it in some POS..i thouht it was going in your blazer!! damn! haha jk man hope you get that fixed.
well now we broke up so I might ask for it back! haha...then I could have 2 amps in my blazer and it would look like hydraulics! 😄

]]>https://fargostreet.com/post/26733https://fargostreet.com/post/26733Thu, 27 Jan 2005 06:24:07 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to bypassing the lead wire on Thu, 27 Jan 2005 05:31:42 GMT]]>I gave you a good amp on that deal for you to put it in some POS..i thouht it was going in your blazer!! damn! haha jk man hope you get that fixed.

]]>https://fargostreet.com/post/26715https://fargostreet.com/post/26715Thu, 27 Jan 2005 05:31:42 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to bypassing the lead wire on Thu, 27 Jan 2005 03:35:19 GMT]]>

jct_4628 wrote:
in my blazer I have an on/off switch built into my deck
But if you dont have a turn on lead wire running from the deck, it wont be able to cut the power to it from the amp. The switch is a good idea, although I never found myself using it. If you have a cd player that has 2 custom EQ settings, than it would be worth it. Retuning your system everytime you want you system on or off is a hassle and just turning subs off when you have the system tuned for subwoofers will make horrible sound quality.
Check for 12 volts(MultiMeter or a testlight) at the end of the lead wire to see if your wire is good, then check it at the end of your crimp. You can also make a quick temporary jumper from your power wire, to see if that works. Looking at the wire will not determin if it is good or not. Couldve been pinched in the process of moving the entire system(has happened to me before).
My 2 cents.

]]>https://fargostreet.com/post/26657https://fargostreet.com/post/26657Thu, 27 Jan 2005 03:35:19 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to bypassing the lead wire on Thu, 27 Jan 2005 02:58:28 GMT]]>in my blazer I have an on/off switch built into my deck

]]>https://fargostreet.com/post/26654https://fargostreet.com/post/26654Thu, 27 Jan 2005 02:58:28 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to bypassing the lead wire on Thu, 27 Jan 2005 02:54:59 GMT]]>

Jim wrote:
Tony's idea is how I had it hooked up in my talon... that way if you get tired of the head ache inducing bass, you can turn it off.

thats the way i had mine in my olds too. works really well.

]]>https://fargostreet.com/post/26653https://fargostreet.com/post/26653Thu, 27 Jan 2005 02:54:59 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to bypassing the lead wire on Thu, 27 Jan 2005 02:16:16 GMT]]>Tony's idea is how I had it hooked up in my talon... that way if you get tired of the head ache inducing bass, you can turn it off.

]]>https://fargostreet.com/post/26647https://fargostreet.com/post/26647Thu, 27 Jan 2005 02:16:16 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to bypassing the lead wire on Thu, 27 Jan 2005 01:48:42 GMT]]>that could very well be the case....bad lead wire from deck

]]>https://fargostreet.com/post/26640https://fargostreet.com/post/26640Thu, 27 Jan 2005 01:48:42 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to bypassing the lead wire on Thu, 27 Jan 2005 01:46:09 GMT]]>I check the lead wire, and there was nothing wrong with it. Im going to re-crimp it to see if that helps. Problem is her deck is starting to go so I wonder if her lead wire just doesnt send a signal anymore?

]]>https://fargostreet.com/post/26639https://fargostreet.com/post/26639Thu, 27 Jan 2005 01:46:09 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to bypassing the lead wire on Thu, 27 Jan 2005 01:38:54 GMT]]>you could always just direct connect it like GSR said but just put a switch in there to turn it on and off...

]]>https://fargostreet.com/post/26636https://fargostreet.com/post/26636Thu, 27 Jan 2005 01:38:54 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to bypassing the lead wire on Thu, 27 Jan 2005 01:35:47 GMT]]>hook up the lead wire to the larger gauge brown wire in your ignition harness, it will turn the amp will be "on" any time that the radio has power going to it (in other words, this is the wire that feeds power to the circuit for the radio). It might be easier to just pull the radio though.

]]>https://fargostreet.com/post/26633https://fargostreet.com/post/26633Thu, 27 Jan 2005 01:35:47 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to bypassing the lead wire on Thu, 27 Jan 2005 01:33:00 GMT]]>In theory you could jump power from the constant power source over to the remote turn on lead. However the amp is never going to shut off and I would also not recommend doing that. If you cannot get the wire out from behind the deck, run a new one from an ignition source in your vehicle back to the amp.

]]>https://fargostreet.com/post/26631https://fargostreet.com/post/26631Thu, 27 Jan 2005 01:33:00 GMT