<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/" xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" version="2.0"><channel><title><![CDATA[car subwoofer trouble again...]]></title><description><![CDATA[<p dir="auto">Hey guys,</p>
<p dir="auto">So the other day, my subwoofer started off booming as usual, but as time went on, the subwoofer slowly got softer and softer and softer until no sound came out of it at all.  I checked everything and the amp has both of its 20 A fuses blown.  I replaced them and when i turned it on, all the sub was doing was making a crackling sound everytime the song had a deep note.  The bass was barely audible.</p>
<p dir="auto">My questions:</p>
<ol>
<li>
<p dir="auto">is there a specific type of fuse you must put into car audio amps?  I bought ATO type 20A fuses.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p dir="auto">Is there a specific orientation that they have to be placed in</p>
</li>
<li>
<p dir="auto">Is my sub blown?</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p dir="auto">My setup:</p>
<p dir="auto">580 watt Dual amp, Clarion subwoofer 750 peak, single woofer enclosure and a 1.6 farad capacitor (the capacitor is holding charge around 13.5 and bounces as low as 12.5 when the bass hits. )</p>
]]></description><link>https://fargostreet.com/topic/16443/car-subwoofer-trouble-again...</link><generator>RSS for Node</generator><lastBuildDate>Wed, 27 May 2026 23:41:33 GMT</lastBuildDate><atom:link href="https://fargostreet.com/topic/16443.rss" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml"/><pubDate>Wed, 25 Feb 2009 20:29:17 GMT</pubDate><ttl>60</ttl><item><title><![CDATA[Reply to car subwoofer trouble again... on Thu, 26 Feb 2009 02:40:48 GMT]]></title><description><![CDATA[<p dir="auto">RE Audio RE12, I have 1 in stock.  No enclosure, but I can ship it to you for about $150ish.  I'll double check the price.</p>
]]></description><link>https://fargostreet.com/post/251251</link><guid isPermaLink="true">https://fargostreet.com/post/251251</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[Trafik Jamz]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Thu, 26 Feb 2009 02:40:48 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Reply to car subwoofer trouble again... on Thu, 26 Feb 2009 01:14:52 GMT]]></title><description><![CDATA[<p dir="auto">ok  the fuses are fine after i replaced them and turning it on.  So pretty sure its a blown sub.  Chuck, I live in Chicago, any recommendations on a new woofer? approximately around 100-150?  it will take me a week or two to scrounge up cash for it.</p>
]]></description><link>https://fargostreet.com/post/251232</link><guid isPermaLink="true">https://fargostreet.com/post/251232</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[theoblivious]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Thu, 26 Feb 2009 01:14:52 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Reply to car subwoofer trouble again... on Wed, 25 Feb 2009 22:18:13 GMT]]></title><description><![CDATA[<p dir="auto">blown sub, voice coil has melted causing a direct short at the amp (most likely).  Take a volt/ohm meter and measure the resistance of the woofer coils (can be done from the speaker leads) the ohm reading should be approximately what the woofers nominal impedance is (should be printed on the sub or the package it came in...look it up online if you are unsure)</p>
<p dir="auto">Other option..toasted amp.  Pull the subwoofer wires off the amplifier, replace the fuses and see if the amp blows the fuses again.  If it does you have a bad amp.</p>
]]></description><link>https://fargostreet.com/post/251122</link><guid isPermaLink="true">https://fargostreet.com/post/251122</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[Trafik Jamz]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Wed, 25 Feb 2009 22:18:13 GMT</pubDate></item></channel></rss>