FG2;265990 wrote:
Best recommendation I have read in this thread. An EVO or STi stock is too much of a car in stock form for 99% of owners. Drive the car to IT'S limits, then see where it fails you. Before you can drive it to it's limits (in control), a person has a lot of education/seat time.

1. Brakes
2. Minor Suspension/alignment
3. Tires
4. Drive it

my $.02

oh and check out: http://fargostreet.com/forums/showthread.php?p=266001#post266001

I completely agree with that one Jason!! I wish I could have started out doing auto-x with my 240 mostly stock in stead of jumping into it and trying to learn in a fully built car.

PSI2HI;265983 wrote:
Personally if it were me i'd buy the basics that you still need (brakes, tires) run a few races get a feel for how it handles and were it needs improvements and work from there. It's gonna be a lot more difficult to sort out if you've changed everything.

Best recommendation I have read in this thread. An EVO or STi stock is too much of a car in stock form for 99% of owners. Drive the car to IT'S limits, then see where it fails you. Before you can drive it to it's limits (in control), a person has a lot of education/seat time.

1. Brakes
2. Minor Suspension/alignment
3. Tires
4. Drive it

my $.02

oh and check out: http://fargostreet.com/forums/showthread.php?p=266001#post266001

Brake cooling ducts are an outstanding idea besides pads, fluid, lines, and removal of the brake dust covers (if it has them). One problem sti's have is flex in the firewall under hard braking at the brake master cylinder location and a master cylinder brace reportedly helps in pedal feel greatly. Thought I would mention this as it might be similar on the evo.

Other than a brake makeover get every upgradable suspension and drive line bushing you feel comfortabe in changing out. If any of this is presumptuous I apologize, been geeking out a lot on this stuff lately. Any plans for big weight reduction or a cage? Suppose that depends on how much fun you have this summer huh?

spark-fired engines control the amount of air input [via the throttle], and then add the right amount of fuel for the desired combustion. When the fuel is E85, you simply need more gas for the amout of air you've let in.

For a given conversion application, the injectors, lines, pressure regulator, and pump(s) are all things that might need to be upgraded, depending on where there is headroom in the existing system.

zbrown;264895 wrote:
boost vs na is completely different in the optimal intake design...... as i am guessing that civic was just motor

your guess was right.

which is why i stated my explination is a terrible explination.....and i hate buschur.

I would like to see a factory boost intake manifold flow test (evo, gst, tsi...the tt gen s4), against and aftermarket intake mani flow test of the same application. just to see.

realistically, a more free flow design would be optimal, but i wanna see what it looks like under real load.

PSiedTSi;264902 wrote:
Yeah, it's usually something roughly around 30% more fuel needed for the same power with E85.

BTW, I wasn't trying to be a dick in my previous post lol

Its cool,

I was just figuring from injector size.

1000cc pump vs 1000cc e85 is something i dont know enough about to compare via fuel charateristics.

im betting its like comparing c16 against q16.

PSiedTSi;264902 wrote:
I wasn't trying to be a dick in my previous post lol

No, that just comes natural.

no_slow_clap;264890 wrote:
I dont know much about e85.

Thats why i said on a race head, pump, and a 2.3.

Yeah, it's usually something roughly around 30% more fuel needed for the same power with E85.

BTW, I wasn't trying to be a dick in my previous post lol

no_slow_clap;264848 wrote:
My explination is terrible, because im basing of my own expierence.

anyone remember my consistant 14 sec passes in my civic (yes, slow)
-bald...well shredded street tires, an exploded driver side motor mount, blown struts all around, and full interior.

with the skunk2 intake mani on, it droped to consistant 15 sec passes. With a higher trap speed, and slower 1/8 mile. this was with street radials, new omnipower coilovers, new motor mounts with inserts from kyle, and a few other things.

Thats my explination. I dont like them, they are sweet noise makers....thats about it.

boost vs na is completely different in the optimal intake design...... as i am guessing that civic was just motor

PSiedTSi;264861 wrote:
^He needs the double pump for the additional fuel of E85!

I dont know much about e85.

Thats why i said on a race head, pump, and a 2.3.

You are the weak spot in this setup. No insult intended, I will also be in this position this summer with a lot less power though lol.

You have built a car that surpasses you skills as a driver . Better parts and setups might make you car perform better, shave seconds, keep you under control, but they will only be making up for what you lack.

Go to BIR, sign up for whatever classes you think will help you. Talk to Shane about "race" driving. He's probably the best driver you can easily approach in town. I would imagine he will have some good ideas for you.

Thrashes ideas are good, but i would think you might want to put some research time into why and how to apply his methods. Except for seat time. Thats easy: you see, you put your butt. . . . . . . into the drivers seat.

PS: I know a guy who would always be up to caravan all summer long/split hotels or whatever for brainerd trips. I'll get him in touch with you if you'd like.

DelSlow;264795 wrote:
Why's this?

My explination is terrible, because im basing of my own expierence.

anyone remember my consistant 14 sec passes in my civic (yes, slow)
-bald...well shredded street tires, an exploded driver side motor mount, blown struts all around, and full interior.

with the skunk2 intake mani on, it droped to consistant 15 sec passes. With a higher trap speed, and slower 1/8 mile. this was with street radials, new omnipower coilovers, new motor mounts with inserts from kyle, and a few other things.

Thats my explination. I dont like them, they are sweet noise makers....thats about it.

Kevin, you dont need upgraded valve train unless you plan to you RPM's over the stock rev limiter. There are plenty of people that have proved that.

Not to mention, the kelford 272, and the gsc s2 out perform most 280 cams besides custom grinds.

Also, i dont think you will need a double pumper with your setup.

http://forums.evolutionm.net/drag-racing/383601-batmobile-goes-10-67-23psi.html

this is a friend of mine. Single walbro 255, although on a 2.3. 1000cc injectors, on a race head, with a pump gas tune (the tune is arguable).

but if you need a double pumper let me know, i can get you one for CHEEAAP.

here is info on it
http://www.stoptech.com/products/stage1_2_upgrades.shtml

no_slow_clap;264794 wrote:
an aftermarket intake mani wont help your midrange..i dont think.
plus i hate buschur, so i wouldnt buy it.

IMO, you should get some 280's. What fuel are you tuning on? race gas, pump, e85?

Ive done my research on the manifolds and nothin beats the stock one ported up to 8,000rpms The car with make plenty of power.. Id say around a 10 sec 1/4 pass.

I thought about 280s but would need springs and retainers also for this summer i'll stay with 264's. More than likly going to go with a double pump and E85 1000cc-1200cc injectors (NOT PTE) I also have Meth Injection..

I do have harness belts and the stock seat is fine for racing ..

On most street cars the #1 thing you want is adjustable front camber when doing road-course work. Mostly this will help save your expensive tires on a big heavy car. Bring a white marker to the track with you and use it to get an idea of how much tire rollover you're getting at all 4 corners. Also a very accurate tire pressure gauge, a notebook, and keep careful records of what pressure seemed to feel good and manage tire-rollover and tire wear appropriately.

If you are looking to spend money on toys, the #1 thing you'll do to go faster around the track is an in-car data logger. You want to know position via GPS, RPM, TPS, g-circle, and speed. You can get into one of these for under $1k, which I am going to guess is small change compared to the rest of the work on that car.

If you're an accomplished road racer this is all dumb stuff you already know, and I apologize for wasting your time. If not, the biggest gains are made by making the driver faster, not the car.

DelSlow;264795 wrote:
Why's this?

please tell me this is a joke?