<![CDATA[Car sputtering under heavy load]]>Posted this up on H-T...thought someone on here could throw in their 2 cents.

Here is the situation: If I am cruising in 2nd or 3rd gear at low speeds (rpm's are low) and then go WOT it will pull for a bit, sputter and bog for about a 500rpm window (rougly 2000-2500rpm), and then pull just fine all the way to redline. It feels exactly the same as a 92 grand am I had, in that situation the ignition coils had a crack in them and the spark was jumping....anything similiar on my honda motor I could check right a way?

A little background: The ecu is a chipped obd0 pw0 ecu, motor is a built ls/vtec. When I did the swap I calibrated the TPS...no problem until about a week ago I start getting a code 7...so I calibrated it AGAIN. Now I have no code, but it wasn't until I recalibrated the TPS that I noticed this problem. (coincidence????)

:thumbup: for some help guys, I appreciate it!

]]>https://fargostreet.com/topic/4305/car-sputtering-under-heavy-loadRSS for NodeThu, 28 May 2026 14:56:40 GMTWed, 05 Oct 2005 07:00:54 GMT60<![CDATA[Reply to Car sputtering under heavy load on Tue, 11 Oct 2005 13:25:31 GMT]]>I don't remember if the caps are the same, however the coil would probably work. I will try and get over there in the next couple days to find it.

]]>https://fargostreet.com/post/74239https://fargostreet.com/post/74239Tue, 11 Oct 2005 13:25:31 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to Car sputtering under heavy load on Tue, 11 Oct 2005 05:31:40 GMT]]>Sure thing, msn screename is bigjonny_20@hotmail.com...I'll answer everything I can.

]]>https://fargostreet.com/post/74215https://fargostreet.com/post/74215Tue, 11 Oct 2005 05:31:40 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to Car sputtering under heavy load on Tue, 11 Oct 2005 03:55:23 GMT]]>seanjohn... I'm buying an ls swap, and thinking about going ls/vtec, had some questions for you on your build. you on msn or aol? pm me your username if you are.

]]>https://fargostreet.com/post/74180https://fargostreet.com/post/74180Tue, 11 Oct 2005 03:55:23 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to Car sputtering under heavy load on Tue, 11 Oct 2005 03:46:47 GMT]]>I was under the assumption that the obd1-2 caps didn't fit on the obd0 dizzy's....am i wrong?

]]>https://fargostreet.com/post/74177https://fargostreet.com/post/74177Tue, 11 Oct 2005 03:46:47 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to Car sputtering under heavy load on Tue, 11 Oct 2005 03:39:17 GMT]]>You shouldn't need the coil. I'd just opt for the cap/rotor.

I might have a GSR cap/coil in my storage shed somewhere as well.

]]>https://fargostreet.com/post/74175https://fargostreet.com/post/74175Tue, 11 Oct 2005 03:39:17 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to Car sputtering under heavy load on Mon, 10 Oct 2005 19:05:07 GMT]]>Yep, going to get the cap and coil from napa today...going to replace it this evening. I remember doing the timing on a SOHC motor back in the day, and I kept having problems with the belt skipping a tooth. The motor would hardly run afterwards, which leads me to believe that my timing is probably fine.

edit

Cap and Coil from napa totaled like $120....typically no biggy, but I can opt for the msd modified dizzy cap and external coil for like $80. I am going to be going with the digital 6 or 7 in the near future, so I think I am going to order the MSD stuff now and use it with an inline ballast resistor until I get my digital unit.

]]>https://fargostreet.com/post/74065https://fargostreet.com/post/74065Mon, 10 Oct 2005 19:05:07 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to Car sputtering under heavy load on Mon, 10 Oct 2005 13:46:34 GMT]]>Correct. Line the cam gears up with each other, and then check the timing belt down by the crank pulley. If the markings line up down there, then you should be fine.

I would say with the way your car was running this weekend that the timing belt isn't off. Have you rounded up some distributor parts yet?

]]>https://fargostreet.com/post/74030https://fargostreet.com/post/74030Mon, 10 Oct 2005 13:46:34 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to Car sputtering under heavy load on Mon, 10 Oct 2005 06:00:47 GMT]]>Someone recently mentioned that my cam timing might be off, unfortunately I have never adjusted it before, and its possible that after replacing the timing belt and crank pulley that it has moved, so I need to know how to check it:

From what I understand, I turn the motor until the markings on the cam gears point to eachother, then I check the marking on the crank pulley and see that it lines up with the notch on the lower timing belt cover...does this sound correct?

]]>https://fargostreet.com/post/74000https://fargostreet.com/post/74000Mon, 10 Oct 2005 06:00:47 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to Car sputtering under heavy load on Fri, 07 Oct 2005 08:22:46 GMT]]>Good info...I'm kinda hoping it's an ls unit, just because it should be easier to get parts from.

]]>https://fargostreet.com/post/73481https://fargostreet.com/post/73481Fri, 07 Oct 2005 08:22:46 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to Car sputtering under heavy load on Fri, 07 Oct 2005 04:12:08 GMT]]>If you cut a leg off of the distributor it is an LS and you will watn a B18a cap/rotor. If not, some USDM parts will work on the OBD 0 b16 distributors. I think obd II GSR might be the correct fit, but do not quote me on that, as it has been a few years since I've had to round up OBD 0 dizzy parts.

]]>https://fargostreet.com/post/73453https://fargostreet.com/post/73453Fri, 07 Oct 2005 04:12:08 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to Car sputtering under heavy load on Fri, 07 Oct 2005 03:43:20 GMT]]>Hmm...I am going to inspect the dizzy tomorrow. But I am almost positive that he said he had to trim something in order to get the dizzy to work with the head. In the case that it is an LS dizzy, should I buy a cap and rotor for the b18a or for the b16? Come to think of it, it would be impossible to buy a cap/rotor for a obd0 b16 specific distributor, so I'd have to get the LS pieces, right (assuming they are different).

]]>https://fargostreet.com/post/73445https://fargostreet.com/post/73445Fri, 07 Oct 2005 03:43:20 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to Car sputtering under heavy load on Fri, 07 Oct 2005 03:33:46 GMT]]>When a honda ignitor dies they usually leave the car stranded.
OBD I distributor is unlikely as well, as you don't have an OBD 0 -> OBD 1 harness conversion installed. LS distributor would be noticeable because one of the ears of the dizzy would have to be cut off in order to bolt it to the b16 head.

]]>https://fargostreet.com/post/73442https://fargostreet.com/post/73442Fri, 07 Oct 2005 03:33:46 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to Car sputtering under heavy load on Fri, 07 Oct 2005 01:24:19 GMT]]>Alright, here's the question now:

Like I said, I'm not too familiar with the ignition on these motors. The ecu is obd0 and the head is a b16. Now, when I bought the car I can remember the seller telling me that the dizzy on their was either obd1 or and ls dizzy. I can't remember for sure, but I know something was different about it. So my question is, are caps/rotors interchangable between all the b-series?

Also, I've read up and found it could possibly be the ignitor....??? Sound possible?

]]>https://fargostreet.com/post/73405https://fargostreet.com/post/73405Fri, 07 Oct 2005 01:24:19 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to Car sputtering under heavy load on Thu, 06 Oct 2005 20:07:50 GMT]]>should...you'll definately notice it

]]>https://fargostreet.com/post/73341https://fargostreet.com/post/73341Thu, 06 Oct 2005 20:07:50 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to Car sputtering under heavy load on Thu, 06 Oct 2005 20:06:36 GMT]]>oh...psht...right. I assume a dead spot will see really low voltage across the sweep?

]]>https://fargostreet.com/post/73340https://fargostreet.com/post/73340Thu, 06 Oct 2005 20:06:36 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to Car sputtering under heavy load on Thu, 06 Oct 2005 19:56:57 GMT]]>you can do it without the pedal...just do a throttle sweep underhood...

]]>https://fargostreet.com/post/73335https://fargostreet.com/post/73335Thu, 06 Oct 2005 19:56:57 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to Car sputtering under heavy load on Thu, 06 Oct 2005 19:55:18 GMT]]>Alright, first thing I'm going to do on satuday is probably pick up a new cap and rotor...couldn't hurt right?

As far as checking the voltage on the tps I've got a voltmeter, and from what I understand on hondas it is .49 - 4.9, so I should just be able to have somone sit in the car and slowly open up the throttle while I watch the voltmeter, correct?

]]>https://fargostreet.com/post/73334https://fargostreet.com/post/73334Thu, 06 Oct 2005 19:55:18 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to Car sputtering under heavy load on Thu, 06 Oct 2005 14:27:35 GMT]]>Cap /rotor is an easy switch.

4 screws/8mm bolts will hold the cap onto the distributor. Take those out to remove the cap. Once you have the cap off look at the contacts inside the cap, chances are, especially if its an old distributor, that the contacts are either corroded and beat up, or there is little to no contact left.

The rotor inside the distributor is also held on with a single phillips screw. That one can sometimes be a whore to get off, and odds are that it is not working very well.

OBD 0 distributors always seem to have problems with the rotor especially.
First things first I would go ahead and and pick up a new cap/rotor, which you can get from any parts store in town.

]]>https://fargostreet.com/post/73275https://fargostreet.com/post/73275Thu, 06 Oct 2005 14:27:35 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to Car sputtering under heavy load on Thu, 06 Oct 2005 13:16:36 GMT]]>

bluejays wrote:
unless you own a dsm

I know a lot of people like to make jokes about DSMs, but what I was referring to should be applied to any vehicle. It goes along with the American way of driving a car until it breaks, rather than getting regular maintenance performed. Car owners are lazy and would rather take the quick solution.

]]>https://fargostreet.com/post/73270https://fargostreet.com/post/73270Thu, 06 Oct 2005 13:16:36 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to Car sputtering under heavy load on Thu, 06 Oct 2005 11:27:15 GMT]]>

pin wrote:
Inspecting and testing parts is better than the "throw money at it until it's fixed" method.

unless you own a dsm

]]>https://fargostreet.com/post/73266https://fargostreet.com/post/73266Thu, 06 Oct 2005 11:27:15 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to Car sputtering under heavy load on Thu, 06 Oct 2005 03:39:00 GMT]]>

Turbo5Oh wrote:
well being that u had a tps code and now it has a rpm flat spot u could very wel have a bad tps, tp sensors typically dont just die they will have bad spots, there is typicaly 2 ways of testing for a dead spot, watching voltage through a throttle swing or checking resistance through a throttle swing, both of which involve me to type way to much to explain

damn i cant believe i didnt think of that...

]]>https://fargostreet.com/post/73218https://fargostreet.com/post/73218Thu, 06 Oct 2005 03:39:00 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to Car sputtering under heavy load on Thu, 06 Oct 2005 03:38:28 GMT]]>Yeah, the ignition will "eventually" be upgraded along when the direct port kit is installed, but that could still be 6-8 months off...so for right now I'll just try to correct the problem. I'm going to troubleshoot on saturday, school is kicking my ass right now.

]]>https://fargostreet.com/post/73216https://fargostreet.com/post/73216Thu, 06 Oct 2005 03:38:28 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to Car sputtering under heavy load on Thu, 06 Oct 2005 03:08:06 GMT]]>well being that u had a tps code and now it has a rpm flat spot u could very wel have a bad tps, tp sensors typically dont just die they will have bad spots, there is typicaly 2 ways of testing for a dead spot, watching voltage through a throttle swing or checking resistance through a throttle swing, both of which involve me to type way to much to explain

]]>https://fargostreet.com/post/73202https://fargostreet.com/post/73202Thu, 06 Oct 2005 03:08:06 GMT<![CDATA[Reply to Car sputtering under heavy load on Wed, 05 Oct 2005 22:51:11 GMT]]>are magnacores as shitty on hondas as they are for DSM's?

]]>https://fargostreet.com/post/73156https://fargostreet.com/post/73156Wed, 05 Oct 2005 22:51:11 GMT