<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/" xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" version="2.0"><channel><title><![CDATA[Wheel Hop issues?? Read this....]]></title><description><![CDATA[<p dir="auto"><strong>taken from <a href="http://k-series.com" rel="nofollow ugc">k-series.com</a></strong></p>
<p dir="auto">King Motorsports sent us this useful info.</p>
<p dir="auto">Why does wheel hop occur on a front wheel drive car?</p>
<p dir="auto">There are a number of variables, from a number of independent systems on the<br />
vehicle, that, under the right conditions cause wheel hop to occur.<br />
Primarily the drivetrain and suspension are the two systems that cause most<br />
of the problem. From the factory the RSX and Civic have the suspension and<br />
drivetrain connected to the vehicle by means of rubber bushings. Rubber is<br />
an elastic material - that is an important fact.</p>
<p dir="auto">When the vehicle is accelerated quickly a few things happen. Frist, the<br />
increase in torque from the engine make the engine want to twist in the<br />
opposite direction that power is being applied. The engine mounts are in<br />
there to resist this motion, and the result is the engine tilts back towards<br />
the fire wall. This is very evident when you have a car on the dyno. This<br />
movement puts a good deal of downward force on the subframe once the engine<br />
mount travel is used up.... again, the purpose of the engine mount is to<br />
take up some of this force and control the speed of this movement.</p>
<p dir="auto">At the same time, the force being applied through the drivetrain is<br />
transferred to the suspension via the driveshafts, hubs, wheel, tire, and<br />
then (hopefully) to the road surface. These forces act on the suspension<br />
components and weight is transferred from the front of the vehicle to the<br />
rear. In other words, the front suspension "unloads" and the rear suspension<br />
is "compressed"</p>
<p dir="auto">You now have two systems (drivetrain and suspension) interacting with each<br />
other - one trying to push the front of the car down and one trying to lift<br />
the front of the car. As the wheels spin they are constantly gaining and<br />
losing traction which in turn is constantly adding and removing the<br />
upward/downward force on the front of the car -&gt; the forces from the<br />
suspension (weight transfer to the rear) and engine are both impacted by<br />
this gain and loss of force (traction) in the system.</p>
<p dir="auto">The result is something like a harmonic, an "oscillatory mechanical system"<br />
that develops. Forces are transferred causing traction to be gained and lost<br />
causing forces to be transferred.... and so on until it gets so bad that the<br />
front wheels literally bounce on and off of the road surface. Large<br />
irregularities in the road surface is an outside variable that can also<br />
worsen the situation, but that is a variable that is not necessarily in our<br />
control.</p>
<p dir="auto">There are a number of things you can do to improve the situation:</p>
<p dir="auto">1)Change the suspension to minimize the weight transfer front to rear and<br />
also to improve the up and down motion of the front wheels when wheel hop<br />
does start.</p>
<p dir="auto">2)Change the engine mount system to minimize the amount of travel, time of<br />
travel, and resultant forces that occur when the engine applies large torque<br />
loads.</p>
<p dir="auto">3)Improve the traction in the system.</p>
<p dir="auto">In my humble professional opinion, the biggest impacts will come from<br />
changes made numbers 1 &amp; 3. Increase compression damping in the rear shocks<br />
and both compression/rebound damping in the front shocks. To better the<br />
traction a good set of sticky tires and a limited slip diff will go a long<br />
long way.</p>
<p dir="auto">As for the engine mounts, yes they do help, but at the expense of vehicle<br />
comfort. Also, by eliminating the movement in the engine mount set you risk<br />
damage to the drivetrain components - the forces have to go somewhere...</p>
<p dir="auto">To answer the question at hand... all other things being equal the ES motor<br />
inserts will reduce wheel hop more than the Mugen set because they pretty<br />
much completely eliminate the movement of the engine. But, remember the<br />
reduced wheel hop will come at the expense of increased drivetrain wear and<br />
potentially failure. Bottom line is that drag style launches are hard on a<br />
car. Your best bet is to increase traction and have the suspension set up to<br />
handle your specific application.</p>
<p dir="auto">You, or those in the peanut gallery, may be wondering why Mugen even made an<br />
engine mount set if they don't really a lot to reduce wheel hop... In<br />
spirited road/track driving and road racing controlling the engine movement<br />
is important for a different reason. Same technical stuff applies with<br />
weight transfer, however controlling engine movement and resultant forces is<br />
needed to keep the car settled during hard, fast, down and upshifts. When<br />
you are "on the edge" in the middle of a high speed turn and you go to grab<br />
the next gear (upshift) you want controlled movement from the engine because<br />
any slight change in weight can disrupt the balance of the car and send you<br />
spinning into the grass. The same goes for downshifts under hard braking.</p>
<p dir="auto">That's my $0.02 on the subject.</p>
<p dir="auto">Clayton<br />
King Motorsports</p>
<p dir="auto">Jason Christopherson<br />
Store Manager<br />
tintmasters motorsports<br />
Fargo, ND<br />
(701)239-8468<br />
<a href="www.tintmasters.net">www.tintmasters.net</a></p>
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