integra_gsr98 wrote:
I have everything to tune crome or uberdata.

There you go Harwood. Break out some of that moldy $$$$ and have
Mr. Thompson tune it.

The window of opportunity for achieving an exceptional ring seal is much smaller with engines than it was with the older “rough honed” engines, that grandpa drove easy for 1000 miles.

How to break in your engine

Break in is extremely important, so overlooked, usually not performed correctly or not at all and usually is not thought or practiced. Procedures apply to steel cylinders as well as (Nickel Seal).

Breaking In your engine

I won’t go into the bearing aspects. Bearing really don’t break in. You either did or didn’t set them up correctly and clean. The piston ring seal is what most of the break in process is all about. Piston rings don’t seal the combustion pressure by their tension. The ring tension is necessary only to “scrape” the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber. Rings give very low spring pressure (about 7 lbs) against the bore. It can not seal against hundreds and thousands of PSI. How do rings seal against combustion pressure? What actually happens is the gas pressures passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind to force it outward against the cylinder wall. One problem is that new rings are not perfect and must be “worn” in to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine’s break in then the entire ring will wear into the cylinder surface to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible.

“Old school go easy, go slow, no load break in, easy break in… bad plan”

The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to “wear” the rings. The rings quickly wear down the “peaks” of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run. There’s a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well…the first 20-40 minutes. If the rings aren’t forced against the walls soon enough, they’ll use up the roughness or “peaks” before they fully seat. If this happens there is not much you can do except full it down, re-ring and try again.
If you use a dyno with a brake, you can make a big mistake. It is very important during break – in that you allow the engine to decelerate fully on its own. During closed throttle deceleration, vacuum sucks the excess oil and off the cylinder walls. Micro partial of the rings and bore of ring and cylinder material which are part of the normal wear during this process. During deceleration, the particles suspended in the oil blow out the exhaust, rather than accumulating the ring grooves between the piston and rings.
Don’t start up until you’re really ready. The reason new rings don’t seat all the way around their circumference. The gas pressure from hard acceleration forces the rings to contact the cylinders around their entire circumference, which is the only way the rings can properly wear into the exact of the cylinder to seal the combustion pressure. The loss in power from an easy break – in poor ring seal can be anywhere from 2% - 10%! No synthetic oil!!!
Kevin I look forward to giving your DPR training seminars in the Caribbean soon. It is very cold over here. I hope this helps I will go over all of the break in procedures that include percentages of rpm, temperatures, and throttle positions which are a very big part of the break in procedure.

DPR Engine Break-In Procedures for Dyno

Warm the engine up completely!! Then, using 4th gear.
Three ½ throttle dyno runs from 40 – 60% of your engine’s max rpm. Cool down.
Three ¾ throttle dyno runs from 40 – 80% of your engine’s max rpm. Cool down.
Three full throttle dyno runs from 30 – 100% of your engine’s max rpm. Cool down.

DPR Engine Break-In Procedures for Street

Warm the engine up completely!
The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.
The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration.

DPR Engine Break-In Procedures for Racetrack

Warm the engine up completely!
Do one easy lap.
The racetrack is perfect to break in an engine!! Acceleration and deceleration is for sealing the rings.
Great, go for it!!

DPR Engine Break-In “What not to do”

Don’t even start it up until you’re ready to warm it up for the first ride.
The reason is that brand new rings don’t seat all the way around the 360 degrees of their circumference. The gas pressure from hard acceleration forces the rings to contact the cylinder around their entire circumference, which is the only way the rings can properly wear into the exact shape of the cylinder to seal the combustion pressure.

To be continued…

sorry about the long post guys, just posted what i got via email.