my winter project
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fdfreak;245499 wrote:
Well many of you know that I had lost compression in one of my rotors housings and had caused me to rebuild. Good thing is that I should only have to replace the coolant seals. But anyway, I took out the engine last week and found alot of oil on the subframe, so its a good thing my coolant seals went so fast. Now I have decided to go all out and do everything right. I am taking all the aluminum parts to either be polished or powder coated. The goal is to make the engine bay look clean. here are some pics of my process so far.I have reduced it to the short block and took off the oil pan. I seemed tto have ran into a snag today however. I am having trouble removing the front E-shaft bolt. I had my pnuematic gun set at 150 psi and still couldnt remove it. (no, its not a left hand thread). more to come...
What impact are you using? I have an IR 2135 with something like 1100lb/ft of nut breaking torque that you can try if you'd like.
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you say you just need coolant seals...... $110 says you are gonna need way more than that..... hopefully not though
Post internal pics when you get it apart
the front hub bolt is sometimes a huge bitch, I have had a couple soo tight a 1" impact was required..... until i made my special tool
ill post a pic of it later
i cant believe what a wreck FD bays are
good luck
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grr,
I am not a huge fan of the painted look. id rather get it polished.zbrown,
From what I am hearing that bolt is a bitch. and I am trying to be optimistic, but I will check all the specs on the springs and the seals.mistercmk,
if I cant get it off then I might have to take you up on that offer.rotaryhaters,
NO, I AM NOT GOING V8. thanks for your concern though. I know you are all looking out for my best interest.
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12.645@118mph 12.6psi
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here are some more pics. Everything looks ok except the coolant seals. The outer seals on all the plates are warped (expected) and the inner seal on the front rotor. I also noticed that there was coolant in the front rotor as well as broken corner seal.
I also took the oil control o-rings out of the rotors and fortunatly they look good. they still hold a tight seal against the rings. so By the looks of it, all i need is one corner seal, coolant seals and the dowel seals.
All the tolerances on the springs are within spec.
zac, what else do you think I should look at or concider?
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12.645@118mph 12.6psi
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looks like you got lucky
I am surprised you lucked out breaking only one corner seal, and that an apex didn't let go, since i thought you were using OEM 2 pc, correct??
both halves look to be there from the corner seal.... so nothing went through the combustion chamber...... consider your rotors, housings, and turbine wheel lucky
(especially on a $$ turbo like that)I'd just make sure to check the irons for flatness if this motor got at all warm on you.
IMO those corner seals are brittle and a POS, I would recommend solid corners with the good springs when put back together
also people are having great luck with RA teflon encapsulated coolant seals.... just a thought
anyway, I am happy you didn't tear up those housings
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yea, I might be painting instead of polishing. looking at cost and will be much cheaper. Id rather not buy i guess one is limited to what he has in his wallet. Do they make a polished alluminum color paint?
Gary, what kind of paint do you suggest? never painted car parts before.
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12.645@118mph 12.6psi
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fdfreak;246472 wrote:
Gary, what kind of paint do you suggest? never painted car parts before.On my stuff every thing has a PPG sealer applied first....
the irons have a PPG single stage black....
and the red is the same paint on the car..... PPG base/clear
you would not believe how tuff all that stuff is...... even right at the exhaust ports after a bunch of antilag the red was like new
BTW the stuff that looks like bumps or whatever on the back rotor housing is just casting flaws, not paint flaws
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