240sx
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tjamz wrote:
I gotta agree w/ blake here...that swap is EASY to come by. If you want to do something really different (for this area of the world) do an RB25 or RB26 swapWord!!
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A '90 240 for $400 and a possibly blown motor is a perfect candidate for a swap. 240s are probably one of the only cars that people sometimes want to find with a blown motor. Anyways, the SR20DET is the most common and the most straightforward swap like btleier said. It is pretty much a direct bolt in with the exception of the A/C and power steering on '89 and '90 models where the stock bracket for the A/C wont work and you'll need a PS line and reservoir from the DOHC engines ('91 +). Check out zilvia.net and 240sxforums.com, they're an excellent source for information. As far as swapping in an RB, keep in mind what your goals would be for the end result cuz the RB engines will throw off the weight distribution which is damn near 50/50. If I were to go the swap route I personally would choose the CA18DET that came in the '89 and '90 models in Japan. Despite having less power stock than the SR, the thing that attracts me to the CA is its rock solid bottom end (iron block and forged rods if i remember right) and better head design (it doesn't have rocker arms) and will rev better and higher than the SR. Although they are an older engine, they're relatively cheap compared to the SR's which are rising in price, and now you could probably get a CA and do a rebuild or a build for close to the price of some SR's. And SR's have better aftermarket support than the CA but the CA's support is growing and with a little effort can become bad ass. But that's just for my tastes, so if you wanted to go the route where the highest possible hp is going to be achieved go with the SR or an RB. Bottom line is 240s rock dude, go buy it.
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Hmm. I know of an SR20DET in town, HKS top mount equal length T4 manifold for an SR20DET and a couple other misc parts that are all local.

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97jeep wrote:
i found complete motor tranny stuff for under 2k plus shipping
only downside to car is that its an auto, which sucks, still desiding if its worth it to do a 5spd conversion, i know they major pain
It's so worth it, do it.With the engine already out you mine as well.
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sr20det, manual or auto, turbo all accesories, computers and harness, pretty much everything but hose, which can be reused and and intercooler, or any upgrades you would like to add, its suppost to also come with step by step instructions for the whole swap
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The local SR20DET isn't going to be for your average person in town looking to do a swap.
It's torn down ready to be sleeved, built and assembled. It's a rather large project if you're looking to get into one that deep. -
Oh im looking for a large project... have a lot of time on my hands right now and was planning on buying a burnt up one to rebuild anyways.
As far as an intercooler goes talk to nick or kevin at SLS they can hook you up with a nice FMIC and piping to boot.
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More info on SR20 would be appreciated. I found a great shell in good condition except some minor front end damge and some hail damage that doesnt seem to bad. Guy wants $500 it just needs motor, new hood ( this isnt that bad and just has a small crease in it. ), front bumper, and hopefully the hail damage isnt really bad.
So if I go pick this up im going to be needing an engine soon. And since the SR20 is local id like to pick it up and rebuild it and drop it in. So get me that info!

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Flowcus wrote:
More info on SR20 would be appreciated. I found a great shell in good condition except some minor front end damge and some hail damage that doesnt seem to bad. Guy wants $500 it just needs motor, new hood ( this isnt that bad and just has a small crease in it. ), front bumper, and hopefully the hail damage isnt really bad.So if I go pick this up im going to be needing an engine soon. And since the SR20 is local id like to pick it up and rebuild it and drop it in. So get me that info!

if you would do an sr20, you need to do a silvia bumper/hood/side skirts conversion anyways, true JDM $h!tJohn, do this! you mom will gladly pay for it and your dad will help you do it. GO JOHN!
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wannabe wrote:
if you would do an sr20, you need to do a silvia bumper/hood/side skirts conversion anyways, true JDM $h!tJohn, do this! you mom will gladly pay for it and your dad will help you do it. GO JOHN!
I hope you don't mean he needs to do a siliva conversion as in that's the only way it will work. If you do I should slap you silly. If you're just saying he needs his car to be JDM TYTE YO! you should still be slapped. Just not as severely.
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The CA18 is a more direct swap in for the 89-90 240SX since it was in the 180SX those years. It got the axe, and was replaced by the SR20 from the 91+ 240s.
There will be less things to convert by swapping in a CA.
Yes, it's got 30 less hp, and smaller. BUT. It's a cast iron block, meaning it can take more boost and abuse (think, 2JZ, RB2x, all cast iron, high-boosting), and it doesn't have head-related issues like the SR20. It also weighs 50+ lbs less than an SR20, and it's about 4" shorter in length, and sits farther back towards the firewall, which offers better handling.
And if someone tells you that "Since it's a 1.8L, it won't be as strong." Tell them they're full of shit, and need to research the specs and results behind it. CA's have put out over 500 whp on stock internals.
Did I mention it's cheaper? And that OEM replacement parts are availible, UNLIKE the SR20DET, since only the SR20DE was in the states?
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^^^^ word. I would love to put a CA18DET in my fastback. But at this point, being a poor college student I'm going to piece together a custom turbo kit for my KA which I already know is one tough s.o.b., runs strong, I know it possibly didn't come out of a car in a junkyard, and will probably make more power with less effort initially. Afterall, no replacement for displacement right? Probably wouldn't be as much fun though. I would love to be able to rev til 9k, which is possible because the CA has twice as many cam lobes than the SR which means the CA has no rocker arms like the SR and the lobes act directly on the valves which = less moving parts = less stuff to break = one free revving engine. Click here for lots of info on the ol' CA versus SR debate.
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