Looking at an RX-7
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one or more apex seals in the rear housing are most likely blown, causing a lack of compression. your options are to rebuild your own motor, buy an already rebuilt motor, or buy a jdm motor which will still probably need to be rebuilt from sitting so long as well as other factors. rebuilding your own motor can be the cheapest option. you CAN do it yourself, there are some wonderful videos availible from atkins rotary that detail step by step the teardown and rebuild. you will require an engine stand with a special atachment for your rotary engine as well as several specialty tools that you will need along the way. i have heard that the rebuild process can be as easy or as hard as you make it and is something akin to building a model. the rebuild kits vary in cost depending on what is included but you should expect to spend at least a grand. also you will find yourself replacing alot of other aging parts and gaskets and things of that nature, removing emmisions equipment (need block off plates), and you may find that the broken seal has eaten into your rear housing and you will be needing a new one, so it 'can' get spendy, but doesn't have to. the second option, getting a rebuilt motor is prolly the most expensive. you could get a shortblock and transfer all of your hardware onto it, i think those run anywhere from 1000 and up depending on what you get or you can get a longblock with all the hardware already on it including manifolds, turbo, intercooler and other various parts, which will be more expensive. both of these options will vary greatly in price and quality depending on who you get it from and what options you get (obviously porting, aftermarket parts, etc will cost more). the third option is to buy a jdm motor which may or may not be complete, and may or may not be in any better condition that the one already in the car. you need to be very carefull about who you purchase a jdm motor from, alot of them are not guaranteed and alot of them are not PROPERLY compression tested before being shipped to the us. they may say they are compression tested but testing a rotary requires a special tool which alot of engine exporters do not have. compression testing a rotary with a normal testing tool will only give the highest compression of the 3 combustion chambers on each rotor, obviously this will not do. many times it is better to just rebuild a jdm engine no matter what because it may have been sitting w/o being started for quite some time and things in a rotary tend to dry out and bind and stick when left alone for extended periods so when you try and start them up the next time good luck.
as or some of your other questions.
rotaries in my opinion are very fun to work on. there is alot of space in the engine bay and things tend to be very accessible. there are a ton of free mods you can do when you have some spare time that actually make quite a difference. if you get a proper shop manual everything is pretty straight forward, and the factory service manual is availible online if you need even more info. i personally am pretty well versed at working with rotarys and piston engines still confuse the shit out of me so if that tells you anything
the second gen is a very nice car, it handles well, and has a very nice powerband, but if you are looking for a car that you will not have to touch this IS NOT IT. you will need to be fixing things on a regular basis. this is time consuming but enjoyable. i think there are one or two competant rotary mechanics at lunde but i would recommend only going to them as a very last resort. you can do everything yourself if you try and there is more than enough information out there to help you. that being said, some parts are expensive
if you are looking for advice on FCs, talk to ppl with FCs. they are a rather different beast than the FD.
the best place !EVAR! for information regarding the FC3s is http://www.rx7club.com .
go there, create an account, go to the 2nd gen forum and TROLL TROLL TROLL. do many many searches. many many. read as much as you can. there is some extremley good information on there and whatever question you have someone has already asked it so search, search, search.if you do decide to tackle the t2, welcome to the club, prepare to enjoy yourself
also, as a side note. 12,000 rpm without hurting it? someones been watching too many movies or something. that is possible, but only with some SERIOUS FUCKING HARDWARE. im talking insane bridgeports, huge injectors.. everything..wow. you would also need to spend an incredible amount of time tuning it, all the while carefully avoiding detonation (rotaries HATE that), and FORGET about driving it on the street. it would not idle at any engine speed considered 'normal' by 'sane' people. so before buying a FCD and blowing up you freshly rebuilt baby trying to get fast and furious with it know this... your powerband is from 3000-3500 up to 7000, and there is no point in going any higher than that without at least portwork and bigger injectors, safc, avc, etc. etc. etc.
oh, and rotaries love fuel too.
go to rx7club and READ READ READ. read everything.
hope this was helpfull.
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Pappy you disappoint me its 80% less
Edit: The only question not answered. Caleb won’t work on the internals of a rotary like building the motor, cuz lack of experience with them. But most people that pop a motor just go out and buy a new one, cuz you can pick up a new 13b for $2300. As for someone who will touch the internals, Marty at Lunde is the only one in town that I know of that will, also he is the only one in the state that is certified too also. As for just working on the car anyone can that knows how to work on a car can do it, its just like a piston motor, just set up different, still the same principal compression combustion ect.
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AcesHigh wrote:
you'll want a turbo I 13B, not a turbo II, unless you want to shell out the cash for new axles and various other miscellaneous drivetrain parts
there is no Turbo I model, and if he's gonna do the Tii swap he can run the n/a drivetrain but it doen't like to be abused with anything above 200whp so its a good idea to get the Tii drivetrain as well.
Once you start working on the car you'll realize that rotary are quite easy to deal with. -
AcesHigh wrote:
I was always under the impression that the 89-91 were the Turbo II's, and the 87-88 Turbo ones had different.. well, alot of things. Both S4(87-88) and S5(89-91) were TIIs, but there are quite a few differences between them. S4 TIIs came with the 13BT which has 182hp, S5 have 202hp, there are a lot of internal differences but i won't get into that . Bodies are different between the two
S4 TII 10th AE
S5 TII
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I vouch for Zac.
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