90 tsi awd
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torbs wrote:
thanks nick...i already found a 1990 EPROM ecu and it should arrive later this week hopefully...also, when could i bring it into u guys and have it tuned (after i get the new ecu installed of course) because it seems to be running very rich (the computer still allows the car to run, but it cant rev past 1500-2000rpm)...thanksLet me know when you get the ECU in and if it fixes the problem. If it doesn't and you cant get the car figured out bring it over ad we can get it taken care of. As far as tuning goes lets just get the car on the road and get the bugs worked out then we can worry about the tuning. There's a lot of little things that need to be squared up before any tuning can even be started. Make sure that car is up to par before you really start putting some stress on it. Make sure everything the previous owner has done to the car is working properly and not ghetto installed, wiring usually falls into this category. But yeah once everythings up and working good we can get it on the road and get it all setup. Hopefully you can it to the track in October for the street legal events October 10th and 17th. Keep me posted.
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Ever tried looking for boost leaks? Honestly, that is without a doubt one of the shittiest setups I've seen in a while. Lots of rubber couplings and clamps that can cause a leak. Have you removed the ecu and took a whiff? Or inspect the 3 caps? Usually bad ECU will cause a cutoff at around 4500 or so. 1500 sounds more like a boost leak.
750cc is a little large but not too big. 57-trim isn't that small....they have run 10s. MAF translator, AFC and EPROM with www.dsmchips.com chip will pretty much solve most if not all of your fuel control issues.
And best take a peak at the rear to check for 3-bolt. A 14b can break a 3-bolt.
Wiz
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A boost leak isn't going to prevent it from reving. A boost leak will make it run extremly and misfire but it will still rev. If the ECU doesn't fix the problem i'd go look @ the AFC and make sure its setup for your car. Make sur its set for karman sensor, and 4 cyl arrow up.
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Under load, a boost leak will prevent the car from reving past a certain point. The bigger the leak, and/or the bigger the load, the less RPMs you will be able to turn. In some cases it may overcome the extra fuel and actually rev. But once again, this is based off of a small leak. He is running larger injectors, fuel pump, etc. Add all of these in with a boost leak or even....just wayyyy to rich on the AFC will cause a problem like this. I installed 660cc, 50trim, and HKS 264/272 cams straight up and during initial pulls, were unable to rev once boost was at 10psi (about 4000rpm). Car would fall on it's face and would not rev anymore. Just pop and bog. Lowering fuel pressure and -30% on the AFC got the car to 25psi, and mid 11-sec ETs.
Point is, I've seen bad ECUs cause the following problems:
Fuel cut (or something similar) at around 4500rpm
Idle surge
Lack of fuel pump supply voltage (or failure to turn on the EFI relay)
Inop boost gaugeThese are the most common symptoms. This is because the 3 caps are near these circuits. Hence, they are the first to fry. The idle speed control board is the vertical board next to the bottom cap. The diodes and ICs near the other caps are for fuel pump and EFI control. After these circuits short, it causes the main processor to fry internally due to voltage spikes. Which is why usually just replacing the caps will not fix a dead ECU. They are the cause, but replacing them will more than likely not breath life back into your ECU. Usually they have taken several other components with them. And if the main IC dies, you're better off finding another ECU rather than repair.
Point is.....I would check for boost leaks first. It's free and easier to find than a 1g ECU. Plus, just one look at the engine bay and the countless couplings and clamps. Any leak after the MAF can cause problems with revving and overall performance. I once blew the compressor housing off of a small 16g (buddy didn't put the clip in correctly) and was unable to even get it to rev past 1k.
Wiz
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thanks guys for helping...(nick, it is kind of ghetto lol) i know somthing is wrong with the ecu because it'll go up to say 1500rpm then the ecu will click and the engine drop rpms and it keeps on doing that over and over (and nearly kills itself...)...and then it idles at around 500...basically, ill wait til the ecu comes in, and to be honest with you, i dont know how to tune the afc (yeah, im a fuckin noob so shoot me lol)...so that could be causing the rich problem, but im not positively sure...the ecu has been shipped to me and should arrive on saturday or monday (hopefully)...then my dad and i were gonna try to bleed the drivetrain sometime in the next couple days because the trans. was recently took out and looked at to make sure everything was ok and then when they put it back on, they got a bunch of air in the system...so it grinds into 1st and reverse when the engine is running...btw, anybody got 2 decent tires for the factory 16's?...2 of them are bald...later
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Good call on the ECU. The clicking from the EGI relay is usually a def. sign of a failed ECU. Usually you also get tach and boost gauge needle flickering too.
225/50r16 is a good size for 16x6 rims. Provides a slightly wider contact patch, and looks decently beefy without being too much for the rim. Plus, 4 225/50r16 Kumho ECSTA Supra 712's from www.tirerack.com are under $400 shipped. Good for 1.61 60 fts.
Wiz
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obvously, as many ppl know, my car has been out of commission because of a broken tranny (and misc. other things...). im not 100% certain yet, but ive almost come to an agreement with somebody on buying a new rebuilt racing tranny...ill get back to u all when i find out whats gonna happen...later
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