Wanted: Mustang
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the mod. motors suck dick....
If i wanted an oversized hunk of junk that i could barely get my head under the hood to work on........... then i would have one
stick to the earlier push rod motors or ls1... so you don't wanna kill a bitch every time you try working on it, and can afford to mod it
better yet.... stick a newer 3 valve motor in it and buy one of these sweet broken spark plug removal tools while you are at it:icon_puke_r:
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Never was a fan of the mod motors in the stangs. That 3 valve spark plug is bull shit also. I'll stick with a 5.0 thank you. Tons of aftermarket out there and easy as hell to work on.
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car
Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall
Torque is how far you take the wall with you -
PSiedTSi;269850 wrote:
Find a cheap rolling shell? Then you can keep your car and build the stang? You don't need a motor anyway. Wouldn't even have to be a GT for the right price(especially if you plan on doing even basic suspension upgrade). The only difference is really badging and bumpers/wheels, which you would have a V6 looking Cobra powered vehicle. Just an idea I guess.The V6 cars have different seats, gauge cluster, body panels (depending on the year) wheels, smaller rear end, suspension bits, etc.
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StangerBanger96;269884 wrote:
Actually if he's willing to put a little work into it he can make the 4.6 a pretty decent motor. I still have to find out what happened to mine as far as this flood but if it did flood I'd have an NPI motor for sale
LS motored cars are gay, plus a lot spendier than a rustang.The stock engines (Except for 03/04 cobras) can only handle 400RWHP safely before you have to worry about the toothpick rods and wet paper pistons starting to blow. If you get forged internals you have a motor good to 800+ HP...WELL more than anyone would really need unless they're making a track car.
400 on a 2V if you have a perfect tune ~maybe~...
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dubbsy;269930 wrote:
400 on a 2V if you have a perfect tune ~maybe~...There are many guys running mid 400's for decent amounts of time that have yet to blow their motors...it all depends on the tune.
I personally am not a fan of the mod motors either but depending on what his intentions are to do with the car it can be a decent platform to go off of.
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LOL you can keep it kelly!
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car
Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall
Torque is how far you take the wall with you -
What do want to do with it JN? Daily driver?
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car
Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall
Torque is how far you take the wall with you -
Super charge maybe, turbo, most power I think id ever make out of it would be 400hp, then maybe later on closer to 500hp. I want a DD (although ive already got one) but I want some power behind it....I dont want to have "just another mustang" ya know?
*1989 Nissan 300ZX Z31 *
> DelSlow;262050 wrote:
> I like the new JN210 -
Raider;269944 wrote:
I myself like the mod motor
All i see in that pic is an overgrown elephant that even with its huge size, lacks cubes....... and sweet OHC tech. that still doesn't do what GM OHV heads do
edit.... what is not to love about $1400 for a set of cams??
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JN210;269948 wrote:
Super charge maybe, turbo, most power I think id ever make out of it would be 400hp, then maybe later on closer to 500hp. I want a DD (although ive already got one) but I want some power behind it....I dont want to have "just another mustang" ya know?If 4-500 is your goal you probably don't want a mod (4.6L non 03/04 cobra) motor then unless you'd be willing to put the money into forging the internals.
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JN210;269977 wrote:
so a SN95 5.0 is my best bet?...if im gonna get a mustang, it has to be the one with the balls.It will more than likely be your best bet as far as responding to mods while still looking decent. I am not a fan of the older fox body mustangs 93 and older but they are easy as hell to mod and make quick.
Chris (CMK) has a sn95 with the 5.0 and I know he knows the cars like the back of his hand almost.
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StangerBanger96;269980 wrote:
It will more than likely be your best bet as far as responding to mods while still looking decent. I am not a fan of the older fox body mustangs 93 and older but they are easy as hell to mod and make quick.Chris (CMK) has a sn95 with the 5.0 and I know he knows the cars like the <u>PALM</u> of his hand almost.
^^^FIXED^^
That is correct, 5.0L is easy to work on, and parts are dirt cheap, by far the better choice. Just look for rust
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Are you looking for a auto or 5spd?
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car
Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall
Torque is how far you take the wall with you -
JN210;269977 wrote:
so a SN95 5.0 is my best bet?...if im gonna get a mustang, it has to be the one with the balls.There was a sn95 on bismanonline.com with a ls2 in it.:icon_salut:
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ruthless351;270030 wrote:
Are you looking for a auto or 5spd?sadly I need an auto....leg amputation may take away my ability to use a clutch so its pretty iffy, im not going to take a chance with that.
Christian;270033 wrote:
There was a sn95 on bismanonline.com with a ls2 in it.:icon_salut:link?
*1989 Nissan 300ZX Z31 *
> DelSlow;262050 wrote:
> I like the new JN210 -
Christian;270033 wrote:
There was a sn95 on bismanonline.com with a ls2 in it.:icon_salut:I dont think this is the one you are speaking of Christian, maybe it is
Off of NA
But look at this thing.... one word... potential
I am abandoning this project, easy finish for someone.
It needs to be measures for a driveshaft and then order. An aluminum one is about $500 max.
The ECU and wiring harness need to be put in, simple plug and play with the power wires etc all labeled. I sent off the wiring harness to be modified for this application to the tune of $800.
Then the power wires for all the guages are all setup, all you will have to hook up is the wires that go to the sensors.
The rear pipe of the driver side header needs to be modified to clear the steering shaft, then obviously install the steering shaft.I think that is really about it other than small odds and ends like radiator plumbing and a tranny cooler. Exhaust also needs to be put on, have headers, mufflers and xpipe.
Here are the mods.
AJE Tubular cross member, motor mounts, tubular a-arms, coilover setup, upper camber plates. $1300
LS6 and a 4l60e auto trans $4000
Autometer guages $900
Kooks Headers $750
Walbro 255 intank $110
2 Flowmaster 40 series mufflers and an xpipe $350
Steering rack offset bushings $50
Flaming river manual steering rack $310
Flaming River slim steering shaft (to clear headers) $420
Aftermarket throttle body (cant remember brand) $300
Probably forgetting alot of things
Anyway with the purchase of the car I have almost $11k into it as it sits.
Ill take $7500, cars with this setup are known to break 11's rock stock motor.
This was before the Flaming river rack was installed.
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