Track Suspension Setup
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Hotchkis Strutbrace, Hotschkis subframe connectors, QA1 adjustable front shocks, adjustable QA1 300 lb front springs, QA1 adjustable rear shocks, 1LE rear springs, Spohn adjustable lower control arms, Spohn LCA relocation brackets, Spohn panhard bar. It's all adjustable, so it can be set up for strip or road racing if need be. I only really have it for the strip however.
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I plan my setup to be
APEX'i Front strut tower bar
Rear strut tower bar
Suspension Technics rear sway bar w/ lower tie bar
Lakewood Front crossmember w/traction bars
Middle Floor Bar
Autopower Bolt In cage
Prothane poly bushings
Prothane motor mount inserts
Progress Competition 1 coil over suspensionThis will mostly be for auto-x for now, and a little road course
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MrScary wrote:
Alrigh I wanna her all ya'll setups!!! I also need some pointers. I'm wanting to try road racing and need to know what to look for. I found a bunch of stuff but not sure where to startPointers: Here are some general pointers that may/may not apply for you vehicle. Brakes are very important and would be my #1 recommendation on nearly any car. Next would be tires, something STICKY would be good...contrary to popular belief that narrowest sidewall tire isn't always the best tire for road racing...therefore it isn't a bad idea to run w/ a wheel diameter of 16-17" maximum. After that, I'd look for swaybars and bushings..again, the best setup may not be ungodly stiff on the swaybar setup...maybe a middle settting if they are adjustable. From there, a GOOD set of coilovers, preferably something w/ adjustable damping. I'd then put on a front strutbar (perhaps I should have listed this sooner on the setup, but I'm listing how I'd set my car up) and rear triangle bar. Finally I'd add anything else that would make the chassis more solid (lateral links, lower arm bars, control arms, trailing rods, camber links...) and of course for your own safety a cage would be a great idea as well (will make the car more solid too). Other things to do would be lose weight (yourself and the car), relocated battery to rear of car, underdrive pulleys, lightened flywheel, remove AC/Power Steering systems, get rid of your ABS, etc....
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Friendly little tip here, some of thos "Big Brake" packages may look pretty, but just pay attention to all the other needs, i.e. lines. Secondly, if auto cross is in your future, just slide some pads in there and call her good, Any modification to the brakes, that alter them from their Completely stock form automatically raise you to a prepared class. Depending on how serious you are taking it, that may just about kill you, at least compared to the same money spent in suspension, or stiffening. As for track day people (and if your a track day fiend, i feel sorry for you having to live in this area) i'm sure any stopping power would be greatly appreciated.
Just my 2 cents
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That is very true, I should have been more clear about that. I'm not necessarily saying "big brake" but possibly OEM sized replacements (Baer, Wilwood, and others make these) that are lighter weight. Also, if you can get more pots on the caliper yet retain the OEM size rotor, I don't think that throws you out of your class does it? I don't know the answer to my last question...was just how I "thought" i remembered it.
As for the track day issue, yes you have to drive a bit to get to the tracks, but they are around. MNDOT in St Cloud and Dakota County in Mpls for example have several events throughout the summer
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depending on what car you have do a lot of research on what other people have done, ask them lots of questions and plan your suspension mods accordingly to what you want to accomplish. another important thing you want to look at is alignment. it plays a huge role in your handling characteristics. ask people what they are running for alignmet with similar upgrades. like chuck said get good tires, they are your weakest link once you have upgraded your suspension.
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tjamz wrote:
That is very true, I should have been more clear about that. I'm not necessarily saying "big brake" but possibly OEM sized replacements (Baer, Wilwood, and others make these) that are lighter weight. Also, if you can get more pots on the caliper yet retain the OEM size rotor, I don't think that throws you out of your class does it? I don't know the answer to my last question...was just how I "thought" i remembered it.As for the track day issue, yes you have to drive a bit to get to the tracks, but they are around. MNDOT in St Cloud and Dakota County in Mpls for example have several events throughout the summer
I didn't know about them, are the tracks decent, what kind of format do they have, basically what i'm getting at is can i drive there, race, and drive back.....As for the autox rules, i thought it was ANY brake mod, but i don't have the rules on me, i hope i'm wrong, 'cause that would be nice, by the way i'm not doing any of this with the dsm, i felt that i liked turning more than straight lines, so i decided to try to pursue more of a autox, and if i can ever find it, track time approach.
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MrScary wrote:
So should I just try and get some track time and go with the stock shit first? Also just so you know I have an 86 Mustangyes. get out there and learn how to do it first (and like someone else said, you do a bunch of stuff to the suspension and you get stuck in with people who have done this before)
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