whats wrong with this amp
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i bet its the connection of the fuse...its probably still good but it might not be tight in there....make sure they all have good connection.
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You might not be running a small enough gauge wire. I have help a few people out that describe the same problem as you and their amps would switch to "protection mode" or whatever their brand amp calls it and would just turn the amp off. Switching to a smaller gauge wire solved all three of the probelms I have dealt wtih this sort of symptom. Jim ran into this on his girls car, maybe he can chime in here too.
edit/ this applies if your amp has a "protection" feature I guess...
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92BlackTT wrote:
You might not be running a small enough gauge wire. I have help a few people out that describe the same problem as you and their amps would switch to "protection mode" or whatever their brand amp calls it and would just turn the amp off. Switching to a smaller gauge wire solved all three of the probelms I have dealt wtih this sort of symptom. Jim ran into this on his girls car, maybe he can chime in here too.edit/ this applies if your amp has a "protection" feature I guess...
Not running SMALL ENOUGH WIRE????? As in physical diameter? Or do you mean not running low enough gauge wire (for example they are running 10 AWG and they should be running 4 AWG). If you mean the second scenario then I agree, it could be the problem. Also, could be a bad ground, blown speaker (blown to the point where it reads a dead short), a break in the RCA Cables, bad remote turn on lead, shorted out speaker wire, blown fuses, bad output on the deck, etc, etc, etc...
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tjamz wrote:
Not running SMALL ENOUGH WIRE????? As in physical diameter? Or do you mean not running low enough gauge wire (for example they are running 10 AWG and they should be running 4 AWG). If you mean the second scenario then I agree, it could be the problem. Also, could be a bad ground, blown speaker (blown to the point where it reads a dead short), a break in the RCA Cables, bad remote turn on lead, shorted out speaker wire, blown fuses, bad output on the deck, etc, etc, etc...Thank god someone chimed in on this hahaha.... I don't know what exactly you were trying to say when the ground would 'spark', but make sure the wherever you have it grounded that the paint/rust/etc... is completely removed to bare metal... Then make sure that when the ground wire is screwed/bolted/attached to the car, it is VERY tight, and not able to slide around the screw/bolt/whatever... Make sure you have the right remote wire from the deck ran to the amp and finally, make sure that you are using proper connectors to the amp and not just "stuffing" wire into the amp, (unless it is an amp that has a tunnel design where you must stick the wire in and tighten the screw down on it) I don't know what audio knowledge you have, so I apologize if you know all this and you feel like I am talking down to you... Just trying to help, and being in the audio industry you see A LOT of amazing installs LOL
Jason
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PSiedTSi wrote:
ill speak for mitchell in this case...he is talking about using a bigger physical wire and a smaller AWGthats why I love you...
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sorry i forgot i made this tread basically i tried most of what everyone has said and i am sure my wire is a small enough gauge for what size the amp is, the one thing im not positive with and was wondering if anyone knows is does the remote have to be connected for the amp to show power because i never did check that it was the correct wire for the remote i wanted to make sure it got power before i had to start ripping open my dash again
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Civic42 wrote:
sorry i forgot i made this tread basically i tried most of what everyone has said and i am sure my wire is a small enough gauge for what size the amp is, the one thing im not positive with and was wondering if anyone knows is does the remote have to be connected for the amp to show power because i never did check that it was the correct wire for the remote i wanted to make sure it got power before i had to start ripping open my dash againYes, the remote wire is what turns the amp on/off. w/o it hooked up the amp will not "show power"
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ok i think i have jsut had other kinds of amps in the past that did differently but i will see if there mabey is a bad connection with the remote thanks a lot for everyones help
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Civic42 wrote:
ok i think i have jsut had other kinds of amps in the past that did differently but i will see if there mabey is a bad connection with the remote thanks a lot for everyones helpIf they showed power w/o having power to the remote turn on they were either A) Incredibly shitty, B) wired wrong or C) Broken. Think about it, if they "showed power" at all times they would be constantly draining your battery. The remote turn on lead is designed to act as a switching wire that activates an electronic switch inside the amplifier turning it on.
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Quick test, you can jump remote over from the +12v from the battery and see if it powers up.
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Nice going man, you just let out the biggest trade secret in the autosound industry....good job Nick....
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well i finally figured out the problem i guess the decks remote for some strange reason had a fuse in it which was blow iv never seen any deck have something like that before so i jsut took it out and wired it the right way so now everyhting works fine thanks for all in input and advice everyone
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