Strip you car
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tjamz wrote:
my words not his exact words on liquid wax. His more in the line of "liquid waxes are a waste of money....normally" I didn't press him on it and took a little artistic licensing in the expression of his statement.Well they are not. So there.
TRUST me on the top coat layering.
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I/he may be wrong in the application of the second coat. I know I asked him if he waxes his cars twice normally and he said yes. I assumed he meant one after the other, but I could be wrong as he does normally keep cars overnight. You are correct in that you should wait on the second coat of wax, the 3 websites I checked all recommend 12-24 hours before the second final layer is applied. I've been doing it wrong for a number of years I guess (not that I always apply 2 coats....normally just before winter I do). Damnit, I learned something today...nice going.
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tjamz wrote:
I/he may be wrong in the application of the second coat. I know I asked him if he waxes his cars twice normally and he said yes. I assumed he meant one after the other, but I could be wrong as he does normally keep cars overnight. You are correct in that you should wait on the second coat of wax, the 3 websites I checked all recommend 12-24 hours before the second final layer is applied. I've been doing it wrong for a number of years I guess (not that I always apply 2 coats....normally just before winter I do). Damnit, I learned something today...nice going.
I'm here to help. -
94NDTA wrote:
Well they are not. So there.Why are you arguing when I agreed with you in the post you referenced? You yourself said you use paste. Then you said that there are maybe a couple good liquids. I agreed with you and corrected myself, yet you still see fit to argue with me and be a dick.
I am sorry almighty waxer of the car. You are a much better wax off-er than am I.
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I mustn't be doing too bad at waxing however, I do have a fairly large assortment of trophies in my living room...hehe
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tjamz wrote:
Why are you arguing when I agreed with you in the post you referenced? You yourself said you use paste. Then you said that there are maybe a couple good liquids. I agreed with you and corrected myself, yet you still see fit to argue with me and be a dick.I am sorry almighty waxer of the car. You are a much better wax off-er than am I.
I wasn't trying to be a dick, I was trying to joke around.
Congrats on your trophies.
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claybar=tEh shiz! When I detailed for harolds, when we would do a clay bar, we would follow it up with a Auto Magic XP sealant don't remember the code, but it was green. or we would use banana magic. Turns out an awesome smoothness and shine every single time.
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MrScary wrote:
For claybar do ya have to like get it warm or kneed it first?? Or is it all in the spray or lubericant you throw on?
You don't have to get it warm, in fact, It would work better if colder. The warmer it is, the softer it is, the less it will pick up AND hold onto.The lube just allows it to move freely without damaging the paint.
Make sure to fold your clay bar.
I havn't claybared in a couple years.
It's almost pointless if you have a good buffer.
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Today at work, we had a white work truck that musta been from the rail road casue there was alot of Rail dust on. I tryed buffing and that didnt take care of the rail dust so then I tryed Wizards clay bar and that didnt take it all off , so the next opition was to take 3000 grit wet/dry sandpaper and that worked wonders!!! after we wet sanded the truck we then heavy buffed it with diamond cut, then went over with swirl remover , washed the whole truck and waxed it..
the best thing to do after clay or buff Job is to use paint sealant then a coat of wax and once a month another coat of wax..
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94NDTA wrote:
It's almost pointless if you have a good buffer.
I disagree. There is a time to claybar, and a time to buff. Say you owned a detailing shop, and a customer comes in with a car that is nearly brand new, but was parked in a parking lot earlier that week that was near a new building going up. The construction workers didnt mask something off right on the b uilding and now there is ov erspray of paint, etc on the car? are you gonna take a buffer to that? -
aliengotpsi wrote:
Today at work, we had a white work truck that musta been from the rail road casue there was alot of Rail dust on. I tryed buffing and that didnt take care of the rail dust so then I tryed Wizards clay bar and that didnt take it all off , so the next opition was to take 3000 grit wet/dry sandpaper and that worked wonders!!! after we wet sanded the truck we then heavy buffed it with diamond cut, then went over with swirl remover , washed the whole truck and waxed it..the best thing to do after clay or buff Job is to use paint sealant then a coat of wax and once a month another coat of wax..
This is subjectional as well. For protection, on a daily driver, yes. For a car you detail often, no. If you wax it enough (once every two weeks) you will get the same protection, and a better look IMO.
I had a sealant/wax topper combo, and I prefered a glaze wax topper combo. It reflected more colors.
The sealant held up for a good year too, I just prefer the other look.
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wannabe wrote:
I disagree. There is a time to claybar, and a time to buff. Say you owned a detailing shop, and a customer comes in with a car that is nearly brand new, but was parked in a parking lot earlier that week that was near a new building going up. The construction workers didnt mask something off right on the b uilding and now there is ov erspray of paint, etc on the car? are you gonna take a buffer to that?Polishing is how overspray got removed before clay came around. There is nothing a claybar can do that you can't accomplish by buffing.
If so, I would like you to show me.
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wow, i don't have a show car with a $20, 000 paint job here. I just started this thread cuz I was bored at work, not to revolutionize the car detailing industry.
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its fargostreet....we'll argue anything to death.
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passat1.8t wrote:
wow, i don't have a show car with a $20, 000 paint job here. I just started this thread cuz I was bored at work, not to revolutionize the car detailing industry.
While you may not have a high dollar paint job, that doesn't mean you can't care properly for what you do own. My paint is over 11 years old, but people who know nothing about cars still ask me if it is a 2005. If you don't care for your paint very well, it WILL start to show eventually. -
i suppose we could also argue that not all dishsoap has that shit in it, and there is probably one dish soap that is awesome for washing cars... thatsnot the point.
I'm sure this guys passat is what he wants it to be, and he obviously cares about it enought to claybar it(honestly, how many people on here have ever even claybared there own car?). Until I started detailing, i had never even heard about it. I know that when I washed cars with dawn dish soap, then clay bared and polished them at harolds, they turned out awesome... and every customer was happy.
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