System Issues
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tjamz wrote:
Possibly the worst advice ever Chris.....Solder is about 10-20 more of a secure connection that crimp connectors will ever be and **wire nuts ARE NOT RATED TO HOLD STRANDED WIRE. PERIOD. **Using wirenuts for stranded wire is like using duct tape as a hose clamp.
Prophesize Chuck!!!!!! DO NOT USE CRIMP CONNECTORS EITHER!
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Can I get an "AMEN" Brother Weshole?
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Jesus is in the house!
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Solder/Shrink wrap or use 3m 33+ electrical tape. Actually solder them also... don't use the bird poop method... does nothing but drips off the wires. Chuck... wanna make a write up on how to properly connect two pieces of stranded wire together... if you dont I will.
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We're gunna get the digtal reader and see if power/signal is getting to where it should be. We're going to check RCA's, Remote, and Speaker jacks to see if they're getting signal and possibly see if the RCA jacks have cold solder joints.
Update: Checked with the meter which isnt built for reading audio signals and what we found is indecisive. The power/ground/remote are all fine, sending what they should be. The RCA's are sending nothing, checking all sets of RCA's read nothing on the meter, although being as it's not meant for audio we arent 100% sure thats the problem.......still.......you'd think it have read something. Next up we tried a different set of RCA's i have in the car that are waiting to power a 2nd amp, nothing on those either. Then we tested the strength of just a regular speaker wire going from the head unit to a speaker and it read probably .1 or so volts on average. Then we took a portable CD player, plugged in old headphone wires that were frayed and connected the positive/negative to the corresponding speaker wire and got the regular non-sub speaker to play, so we then connected that to the RCA cable connected to the sub and got nothing. What we want to try do is catch it when the subs ARE working to see what can be found, otherwise it might sound like its either the amp or the head unit. When we tested the RCA's while connected to the amp but not the headunit there was some measured voltage feedback. As of right now we're both stumped though.
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you do realize that audio is AC not DC right? Did you switch the meter to AC? If not, there was probably no voltage to measure.
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tjamz wrote:
you do realize that audio is AC not DC right? Did you switch the meter to AC?.That is until your amp peaks/clips in which it reverts to DC current which develops hot spots on the voice coil and enuff of that will fry it. Which is what fries subs more often than anything. I know that it doesnt really pertaining to the problem but I just had to throw that in.
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tjamz wrote:
you do realize that audio is AC not DC right? Did you switch the meter to AC? If not, there was probably no voltage to measure.We checked everything in AC and DC.
Oh and we caught the system while it was working and it still read nothing so we're thinking his meter isn't the best tool to be reading audio signals.
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Well we're about 96% sure its a cold solder joint or jointS. Wasnt working at all so after i changed oil i drove around with the heat cranked and after about 10 minutes it started working. Let it sit overnight and it didnt work again so i took a blowdryer to JUST the amp and it worked about 2 minutes into the blowdryer. So something is expanding enough when it warms up to make the contact. My dad could probably fix it himself but it'd end up voiding the warranty most likely so i'll probably end up returning the amp to have them fix it.
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