StangerBanger96 wrote:
im on the fastest connection

So would:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=5250774&productCategoryId=pcmcat25300050001&type=product&cmp=++&id=1051384663529

solve my problem (hopefully?)Looks like a good one to me too...

Any word on when ya gonna fix it?

pin wrote:
Try Tintmasters...they probably deal with specialty nuts all the time.ha ha ha ROFL

Damn dude, you got a set of local law books at your place?

Router: A piece of hardware that acts kinda like a stand alone computer. It uses one internet ip address when hooked directly to the modem. To the internet company, if they are stupid, it will look like one computer. From the router there are usually at a minimum 4 connections to hook other computers up to. These 4 connections are part of your local network and have addresses such as 192.168.XXX.XXX. Your computers will share the router to access the internet using these different local addresses. You need to set up the router to access the internet just like you did with the computers you had set up already(or manually set it up if you had the computers previousely set up automatically). Then the computers you have hooked into it will need to be setup automatically...depending on the type and brand of router you get. When you buy the router, get one with a firewall...otherwise people can hack your network and get into your computers.

Switch: A unit used for expanding a network that is already in place, such as behind a router.

Your network should be like this.

Modem -> Firewall/Router -> then switches -> computers

Don't get confused...the router should have a switch built in. This is because otherwise it would only have one connection on back that would require the end user to also buy a switch. For the sake of simplicity and to no confuse the end user further, they have incorportated a firewall, router , and switch in one unit. They are hooked up internally like this.

modem connection in -> firewall -> router -> switch -> 4 connections out

I hope that helps ... probably confused ya more now.

tjamz wrote:
I like parts that are made out of unobtainium....whether they be JDM/USDM/whatever :eek: ha ha ha

roger that

bosnians suck

Yeah...just use a router dude

DaveH wrote:
I pulled the tranny out tonite, it's scrap.

I ran a 11.3 @ 118mph coasting after 3rd gear came apart....

:-pStill better than my time... :eek:

I've seen these arab guys doing this before...but I haven't seen this one! WTF....you think he got in trouble?

JDMSTi wrote:
the 2.5 RS on the coupe is small... its the same as whats on Version 4 STi's in Japan...Version 5/6 wings are alot bigger, which are 13inches

mine is a Genuine STi version 6 wing...looks like that

here are a few pics of my car w/ the Version 6 wing
I see the difference now. Thanks, I lernt somtin today.

I've seen you around before.

Some pics from my albums.

JDMSTi wrote:
yeah its definately an RS, its LHD, has a replica STi wing and not a real one...no clear STi tails or STi badging
Are you sure that isn't the 2.5rs wing minus the decals? The 2.5RS across the street from me looks the same as that one.

tjamz wrote:
A. Yes, you have accessport, which is very handy but not self tunable. You need to download maps off the internet and can't tweak/modify anything specific for your setup/elevation/vehicle/fuel grade/etc. Yes, that setup is good for 224 whp (at least according to Cobb on THEIR dyno)

B. I think you've been reading cardomain too much (another big gripe of mine, damn people lie about their HP on that site). Show me a 500 whp wrx on the stock ej20 block (internals can be upgraded, thats fine, block still won't hold up.)

C. The other thing you need to factor in is the price of Honda parts vs. Subaru parts. I'm willing to bet you can get more parts for the money if you buy honda parts.

D. Both. Its been done before. Haven't you auto-x'd your gsr Nick? (I might be wrong there about Nick autocrossing.) Even if he (nick) hasn't I've seen GSR's at both type of events and their owners have indicated that they do both.

E. Please send me a link of someone (anyone) who has a dyno chart to prove that they have gone 500whp in a wrx w/ a USDM EJ20 (preferably on a Dynojet or Mustang Dyno.) 500whp in a EJ25 is hard enough to do while still being safe. I would think that TXS/Vishnu/Element Tuning/Cobb/APS/Easy Street or someone would have one on their site if there were LOTS of them out there.

A. AccessTuner just came out that allows you to reprogram the Stock ECU to fix those little details.

B. Cardomain is not my style...cause people lie about everything on there...your right. I agree about the stock block and internals. The civic I was talking about doesn't have a stock block or internals either. I'm not talking about stock internals or bottom end for the wrx. EJ22 blocks with fully closed decks will hold more boost and they are just about free in junk yards.

C. Honda or Subaru parts are not that much different in price when you are buying aftermarket parts. That is unless you are attempting to get them from japan...then your screwed with Subaru...I don't know about honda. I have seen many different turbos in Subarus...not just the ones that are drop in replacements. So price...I don't know about that one....I will give you that arguement that honda aftermarket parts are very plentiful in this country.

D. Without changing tires or suspension settings? I find that hard to believe...at least hard to believe they did well at one of them. Most of those 500 hp club guys have to run slicks which barely leave any room for the suspension to move...and the rear is usually set fully stiff...hmm...sounds like problems on the autoX track.

E. Most of the WRX's that make big numbers are over in Australia. That's because they have been popular over there as tuner cars for many years and they are relatively new here. Here is a quote from turbo magazine that helps explain what I am talking about. Some of the sites have dyno sheets on them.

"Tony Rigoli Performance has power tuned a number of mean Impreza WRXs in its native Australia, generating numbers like 551, 521 and 499 whp on strictly street-going versions. So the ESX package has a stout engine program behind it."
http://www.turbomagazine.com/features/0301tur_ej20/

Tony Rigoli Performance tuned 542 whp wagon at
http://www.rigoliracing.com.au/466hpwrx.html
Old school body...same engine as new age wrx

521 whp on dyno at
http://www.rigoliracing.com.au/mrwrx.html
not street drivable...but still over 500whp

Of course ESX tuned by Tony...505 whp
http://www.rigoliracing.com.au/esx_wrx.html

Ex Vi Termini 300kw WRX GC8 flavor
http://www.exvitermini.com/gc8specs.htm
Vid 300kw

darkelvis wrote:
Imagine it something like this. (note, this is not the true concept, this is just a pic someone made on another forum)

That's tits

2.5RS wrote:
cobb stage two is just a chip, i used to have one... he's talking about a tunable EMS like a utec..... now just let this thread die!

not for a wrx...take a look at www.cobbtuning.com

Stage 2

Package Includes: AccessPORT

COBB Turbo-Back Exhaust System

tjamz wrote:
Are we talking 500whp here? If so, I'm raising the BS flag. There is almost no way that a US spec EJ20T is going to support 500whp. What kind of turbos are these cars running? T66? SC61? 60-1? GT40's? Those turbos hardly constitute a daily driver 2.0 liter motor as the lag would be severe. Or are we talking about a worthless number like crank HP? Crank HP won't do you one bit of good if the wheels don't see a good portion of it..that would translate to what? 390-410 WHP perhaps on a suby, maybe less. Give me a Dynapack (which seems to be the favored dyno of WRX owners) and those numbers are close to in reach on my car as Mustang Dynos generally read ~40hp lower than others. Had I not hit boosting issues I have no doubt I would have been very close to 350whp and 380 wtq. Oh, and I run 13's (well last year, pre-tune).

You talk about making the switch to an STi 6 speed, last I checked to get a 6 spd was about $6000, to make 500 crank HP is going to run you about another $5000-$6000 minimum. Figure in labor and you can easily factor in another $2000, that puts you at $14k in mods on a $23,000 car (if you buy new). I really think you need to check your facts about subies before making the claims you have made.

Chuck

PS. I own a WRX

Ok dude.. chill...

I am talking about sinking the same amount of money into a WRX as a High horse Civic. Talkin 12k+ in mods on the civic. 500 whp can be done and has been done many times. Surf on done to the WRX forums sometime and you will find out what I am talking about.

Does it matter that a wrx has 500 hp...no...because it gets traction right away anyway (well kinda...pushin 500 in any car is hard to have traction). You won't even need 500 whp to beat a 500 whp civic... different ball game as far as drivetrain. Speaking of drivetrain. Kaaz gears are only $3000 for the wrx 5 speed. They would work better in a drag event or autocross event anyway.

At the end of it all...when the cars are sitting side by side...which one can you drive to the drag track, race, and drive to an autoX event, race and drive home without any modifications in-between?

STiSchucky wrote:
dont think just a cobb stage 2 will run 13.4 with a wrx, until you do the real thing. I ran 13.1 with a stage 2 set up but without EMS. All i gotta do is make a fuel map for it to stop the damn fuel cuttin and ill go better.

Cobb Stage 2 is a complete setup including an EMS. I do have the real thing...not sure what your refering to?

They sound badass when they are modded...mostly because the exhaust has to be hacked so short...