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bigdogdj;259088 wrote:
umm my bike doesn't have a chain its shaft driven
Ha... Do you know what a CAM CHAIN IS?... Your bike has two of them. The tensioners are know for failure.. part number (14515-MB0-010).. Along with the guides.. (14520-MB0-000) and (14522-MN0-000)..
Yes I know that your 1982 Honda VF750C Manga is shaft drive... I have worked on more of these old piles of a motorcycle then you would care to think about. So shut up and enjoy the fact you have your own bike at 17.
Seventeen and you want a liter bike... That has bad idea all over it. I worked for several motorcycle dealerships between here and when I was in Phoenix and I have seen too many young guys buy sport bikes and end up dead. A few good friends too.. But do what you wish, just don’t ride like a jack ass and get fucked up. Oh yeah... think about full coverage insurance on a R1 for a 17 year old too... Unless mommy and daddy are paying it, you’re stuck with your V45. But if you get a sport bike, send me a message once you lay it down because I buy wrecked bikes.
As for your V45 there is not much you can do to get more power out of them. You really do not want to run that engine all that hard either because they are known for wearing cam chain tensioners and cam chain guides… So if it rattles on deceleration and idle that’s the problem… Also they did not line bored the cam journals on the 1983 and earlier v45 heads, so they eat up cams and cam journals over time. Just ride it and enjoy the fact you have a motorcycle to ride.
Yeah I have installed them on a F3 before. I cant help you out though, cause I’m in phoenix tell January. Its not a hard install, but I don’t recommend it to someone who doesn’t work on motorcycles or has experience with them. The last thing you would want have happen is to put you cams out of time and not know it. With the tensioner removed the cam chain can skip a tooth or several so if you do it, be careful.
It’s a carb problem. Don’t bother replacing the coils, the coils will work or they won’t. Have you every synchronized the carbs? Any time you pull off a carb bank they should be synced. I would probably say that your idle/pilot circuit is where the problem is going to be in. Where are you idle mixture screws set at? Did you pull the pilot jets out and clean them? Ive cleaned and tuned more carbs then I care to think about so if you have questions just ask away.
Thanks for all the welcomes.
Yeah that is the correct tap size for it. With that fine of thread though I would maybe want to try a rethreading tool first before a tap. snap on TRT101 is the part number for the rethreading tool. Getting those threads that are in the head fixed is the only really right fix for this. Anytime you drill and insert a plug hole you are taking the chance for problems. So be careful with the rethreading tool or tap. Make sure you get it started strait with the hole.
Lol I think nick will get it. I would help if I was there though. What sort of bike are you looking to get once you sell the v-star.
Snap on rethreading tool would be what you would want to start with (thread chaser). It would help if you gave me the number off of the spark plugs that are in the bike. I think the NGK-CR8E is right but I want to make sure. I can give you the part numbers for the tool you would need from snap on once I know the plug size. When you use the thread chaser you will want to apply grease to the flutes of the tool to help hold the shavings from the cutting of the threads. I would be really careful with this though, you will want to avoid getting shavings in the cylinder at all costs. But if some does its not going to kill the engine sense the little shavings will be soft aluminum.
If it comes down to doing a insert name brand being a Time-Sert like nick said I would say would want someone with some past experience to do this or help you with it. Here is a link to the Time-Sert site. The head WILL need to be removed to do this.
I've been here for a little while and figured I should make an official into. Well I'm into motorcycles and cars and have a lot of back ground in both. I am living in Phoenix AZ until next January going to school at MMI for Harley Davidson and Honda. A few people may know me from when I worked at Ma's Cycles for a while last year and I have some friends on here too. If anyone has any motorcycle questions feel free to ask and if I don’t know the answer I have endless access to people and information that would. I have a lot of different vehicles from cars to motorcycles. Currently I have three dirt bikes, one street bike and a car here in phoenix and I have more back in ND.
The garage in phoenix, missing two bikes thought.
Shadow (for sale)
I've seen this bike personally and its a nice v-star *bump
Well I'm pretty sure that the plug for that bike is a NGK-CR8E and it has a 10mm thread with a 16mm reach, so if only a few threads are damaged you have nothing to worry about as long as you can get the plug started and not cross threaded. As for repairing it you would want to do an insert on it and not a helicoil on a spark plug thread because of the fact that you will be removing and installing the plug and a helicoil will not stand up to that over time. I would do whatever you have to to avoid having to insert in though, because once you do that to a head you run a chance of cracking from the spark plug hole to a valve seat. (I’ve seen it several times on older Harley castings) Try a thread chaser first like black2g said and see if you can get the threads straitened out. I saw that goodnbuzzd said to use anti-cease and that really is not as good as an Idea as it sounds… This is because if you put anti-cease on the plug every time you replace the plugs you will build up a lot on the treads of the head and gall the threads in a aluminum head. (I’ve also seen this a lot on Harley heads, cause people think that it needs it every time they put plugs in it.) The right stuff to use is clean motor oil on the threads, just a drop. Look in many manuals and this is what you will see. If you pull the head off you will need to pull the cylinder off also because you would have released the clamp load on the base gasket and it will need to be replaced then.
I have seen frame problems with the gsxr, but it has only been in bikes that have been ridden hard or wrecked. For a first bike I would say that a 600 gsxr wouldn’t be a bad bike. The low cost and availability of bikes and parts is worth it. But its not all that hard to find a good cbr though which I personally would prefer over a gsxr or zx. If I was to recommend a Triumph Daytona 675, maybe its just cause I worked at triumph deal, but I really like the 675.
Junk. Poor quality and no dealership support. If your looking for a light sport bike that isnt going to be to much for you a kawasaki ninja 250 would work. But if your looking for a bike that would last you for a while and be enough for you once you build up your riding skills start looking at a 600cc class bike. Truthfully most of the 600 class bikes are all around good machines for the average rider, so alot of your choice will come down to what you like and what you want to spend.
All the welding I did on that thing was worth it cause that looks awesome.
What sort of work are you guys doing in Fargo? I have have experiance in Triumph, Ktm, Honda, and Harley Davidson motorcycles. How big is your business?