My DSM is friggen slow. Any thoughts?
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D S ohM;181388 wrote:
If you are going to do a 2g mas, make sure you upgrade to 550s. Buy an AFC at the same time. If you dont want to spend 300 bucks on a wideband, take it to Tintmasters and have them tune it on theirs.Im hoping to get a cheap FMIC setup, injectors, 2g mas, and a dsmlink setup coming up here next month.
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3_Series;181372 wrote:
Don't know if they would help too much, but you could try investing in some iridium plugs (Denso, NGK) for better spark. They're supposed to be particularly beneficial for forced induction applications.ngk brp7es or brp6es is all you need, dont spend money on expensive plugs....
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JohnW;181391 wrote:
Im hoping to get a cheap FMIC setup, injectors, 2g mas, and a dsmlink setup coming up here next month.DSMlink is awesome if you have the extra money to spend on it. Way better than an AFC. Good choice.
SmitEvo;181394 wrote:
ngk brp7es or brp6es is all you need, dont spend money on expensive plugs....Well put. All you really need is some cheap NGK plugs. .028-.029 gap.
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[QUOTE=D S ohM;181395]DSMlink is awesome if you have the extra money to spend on it. Way better than an AFC. Good choice.
Ya, I figure since I already have some experience tuning with logs on a computer I should be able to use DSMlink fairly easily. My ecu is already socketed besides. It is expensive but if you remember how many ppls afcs get stolen around here, it evens out dont you think?
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JohnW;181396 wrote:
[QUOTE=D S ohM;181395]DSMlink is awesome if you have the extra money to spend on it. Way better than an AFC. Good choice.Ya, I figure since I already have some experience tuning with logs on a computer I should be able to use DSMlink fairly easily. My ecu is already socketed besides. It is expensive but if you remember how many ppls afcs get stolen around here, it evens out dont you think?
I take mine out every night to avoid that issue.
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I'd put the stock ECU in it.
My old 1g ran 13.5 @ 95 w/ a 8.8 1/8 mile with exhaust a UICP pipe and a boost controller. By the end of the summer I had it, it was running 8.5 1/8 miles but I was back in Minot so it never made it back down to the 1/4.
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integra_gsr98;181406 wrote:
I'd put the stock ECU in it.My old 1g ran 13.5 @ 95 w/ a 8.8 1/8 mile with exhaust a UICP pipe and a boost controller. By the end of the summer I had it, it was running 8.5 1/8 miles but I was back in Minot so it never made it back down to the 1/4.
my 14.3 was at 96.7 mph, so is that about right or what does that mean. does that mean I suck at driving?
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What do your 60fts look like?
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If you're on a stock clutch, and can't launch very hard then thats probably the biggest factor in you running 14.3. Figure for .1 sec faster to the 60 foot mark, normally will net you about .2 sec faster in the 1/4 mile. So depending on your launching ability, clutch holding or slipping, and tires spinning from being wet, you could be right on par.
DSMLink is pretty good for a cheaper standalone style engine management. It's still not a full stand alone, but it is extremely easy to use and has tons of support.
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I don't know what the 60ft was, I didn't keep the timeslips
I'm going to try and focus on getting off the line better this weekend, hopefully my times will improve as a result. That time was from my first time out at the track so I'm sure I was n00bing it up something fierce.The way I figure, DSM link, actually having a dedicated user interface can't be any harder than what I'm doing now, and god knows theres more support. It of course has the ability to change maps but the real bonus is that it contains all of the little addons that you can put into the stock program, except without inputing code, editing hex, or remapping memory addresses. A definate plus. I think an advantage over the other standalone solutions is that DSMlink is made for one car specifically, even between the 1g and 2g, so there is no fiddling around or anything, it just works.
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Don't no lift on 3rd and 4th and don't shift at redline when shifting into 3rd or 4th gear. The little 14b turd doesn't make power all the way up top.
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the 14b works, slowvo on here ran 12.1 with a 14b back in the day. You'd be better off putting the stock ECU back in the car w/ the stock fuel maps, etc and shifting before redline. I'd shift closer to 6500 rpm in the higher gears.
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