fargostreet boot
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Sup FargoStreet,
I am new to the forum, however i have lived in moorhead for about 3 years. In April I am moving to S. Fargo. I own a 93 RX7 and its been a project car for the last 2 years. Tintmasters is converting the stock twings to a T04Z single turbo. Too many other mods to list. Hopefully it will be running in a month or so and i can join you guys at some of these local events this summer.
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12.645@118mph 12.6psi
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welcome man! i cant wait to see the FD run! ohbtw the turbo looks pretty sitting in there!
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yea. it should be a fun car! what do u plan on doing with the car, you plan on autox or drag or drift??
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capitlj;208823 wrote:
Rotarys get broken not boken in lol. Welcome.thats why no break-in...... just beat on the fucker from GO till the inevitable
With proper SS clearances during the build there really is no point of break-in unless new bearings are used....not common.... because bearings usually look like new even with 100k+ because of no violent lateral forces like that of a boinger
i have pulled a part a 186k NA engine that had no copper what-so-ever showing
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welcome man, you gotta post pics of the ride man.
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no pics yet guys. Its nothing really to look at now. if you want to see it, it will be in the tintmasters shop for at least the next few weeks. It needs some body work and a new paint job. I have a 99 spec front bumber, FEED front fenders, and FEED side skirts sitting in the garage til I can afford a paint job. Any of you guys do body work?
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12.645@118mph 12.6psi
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Is this the blueish one that sat in the back of SLS forever?
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I have too much damn money stuck into that engine to not break it in properly. I have talked to a lot of rotary shops and they highly sugjest running the engine 500-700 miles under 4k rpm with no boost.
zbrown;208828 wrote:
thats why no break-in...... just beat on the fucker from GO till the inevitableWith proper SS clearances during the build there really is no point of break-in unless new bearings are used....not common.... because bearings usually look like new even with 100k+ because of no violent lateral forces like that of a boinger
i have pulled a part a 186k NA engine that had no copper what-so-ever showing
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12.645@118mph 12.6psi
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well i say do what you want with your motor, but....
zac knows what he is talking about and has built rotoryes before, so when he says somethings like no break in i would listen. and most of the time when i "shop" says to break in a motor it is for there own saftey, so you don't come back and say bla bla bla something broke, there just covering there ass.
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DrifterExtreme;208869 wrote:
well i say do what you want with your motor, but....zac knows what he is talking about and has built rotoryes before, so when he says somethings like no break in i would listen. and most of the time when i "shop" says to break in a motor it is for there own saftey, so you don't come back and say bla bla bla something broke, there just covering there ass.
Zac hearts Matt.......
fdfreak;208864 wrote:
I have too much damn money stuck into that engine to not break it in properly. I have talked to a lot of rotary shops and they highly sugjest running the engine 500-700 miles under 4k rpm with no boost.Please tell me how you have alot of money into an engine?? Unless you used Ceramic seals and new housings i really don't see it........unless you like giving money to "rotary shops"
correct that these engines take a long time to "break-in" as there are alot of hard seal surface that needs to be wore-in........... Tis why they keep gaining compression up to 2k miles +
but by ripping on and boosting it is not degrading the break-in cycle........ believe what you want, but i am going by what the true veteran rotary guys say (fast guys)
I am not saying an easy break-in is bad, just unnecessary, some argue you will not get as good of seal seat with an easy break-in
Please give me the deal-e-o on your engine........ ported even??
you give me a me a non junk block and I/we could have it put together with whatever kind of porting (not PP) you want for a grand or less counting the cost of the original short block........... and have as solid of engine as any of the "rotary shops"
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Two other things
3mm seals are a joke..........
and these engines are super touchy to tune/detonation, especially when soft apex seals are used........
what i am saying is that a a 5 grand "rotary shop special" is gonna shit just as easily if not easier than a $300 build with crap housings and hard seals with poor tunning or knock
the large port REW in my FC has been fucking abuuuused, still runs like a champ
$400 - solid block
$300 - RA apex seals
$120 - gasket kit
Freebie - portingId put my combo up to any of the big name shop engines
not ripping on you man, just would hate to see you spend alot of money that could be spent else where on the car............hint hint.......... engine management
what are you doing for an ECM??
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