need so help
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thats kind of a tough one, i would leave it, so long as you can thread a new plug in it. otherwise, you might be able to remove the head and tap it out, i have also used helicoil before, but that usually requires drilling anyway (still have to remove the head). and wether you have to tap it out, or you can still thread in a new plug, always use anti-cease!
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not always a good thing to do. but i would just buy a thread chaser and try repair the threads without taking the head off. you might get a few metal shaving in the cylinder. Is this kinda a beater or not? What should be done is take the head off and see if it is possible to rethread it or helicoil like he said. if you know the thread size you can buy spark plug taps from snap-on. It has to be up to up on how much time you want to put into it and how much you care about it.
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Well I'm pretty sure that the plug for that bike is a NGK-CR8E and it has a 10mm thread with a 16mm reach, so if only a few threads are damaged you have nothing to worry about as long as you can get the plug started and not cross threaded. As for repairing it you would want to do an insert on it and not a helicoil on a spark plug thread because of the fact that you will be removing and installing the plug and a helicoil will not stand up to that over time. I would do whatever you have to to avoid having to insert in though, because once you do that to a head you run a chance of cracking from the spark plug hole to a valve seat. (I’ve seen it several times on older Harley castings) Try a thread chaser first like black2g said and see if you can get the threads straitened out. I saw that goodnbuzzd said to use anti-cease and that really is not as good as an Idea as it sounds… This is because if you put anti-cease on the plug every time you replace the plugs you will build up a lot on the treads of the head and gall the threads in a aluminum head. (I’ve also seen this a lot on Harley heads, cause people think that it needs it every time they put plugs in it.) The right stuff to use is clean motor oil on the threads, just a drop. Look in many manuals and this is what you will see. If you pull the head off you will need to pull the cylinder off also because you would have released the clamp load on the base gasket and it will need to be replaced then.
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yeah what he said^ ?
here a psht, there psht, everywhere a psht psht
PVC SQUAD MEMBER #2- 95 CIVIC EX- DD 320whp on a mustang dyno
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xtreamedrtbker;224313 wrote:
Well I'm pretty sure that the plug for that bike is a NGK-CR8E and it has a 10mm thread with a 16mm reach, so if only a few threads are damaged you have nothing to worry about as long as you can get the plug started and not cross threaded. As for repairing it you would want to do an insert on it and not a helicoil on a spark plug thread because of the fact that you will be removing and installing the plug and a helicoil will not stand up to that over time. I would do whatever you have to to avoid having to insert in though, because once you do that to a head you run a chance of cracking from the spark plug hole to a valve seat. (I’ve seen it several times on older Harley castings) Try a thread chaser first like black2g said and see if you can get the threads straitened out. I saw that goodnbuzzd said to use anti-cease and that really is not as good as an Idea as it sounds… This is because if you put anti-cease on the plug every time you replace the plugs you will build up a lot on the treads of the head and gall the threads in a aluminum head. (I’ve also seen this a lot on Harley heads, cause people think that it needs it every time they put plugs in it.) The right stuff to use is clean motor oil on the threads, just a drop. Look in many manuals and this is what you will see. If you pull the head off you will need to pull the cylinder off also because you would have released the clamp load on the base gasket and it will need to be replaced then.That's the thing, I can't get the plug started at the proper angle. So I would want to do an insert then? What's the technical term so I can buy the proper tool(s)?
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pm xtremedrtbker but i think he's talking about a time sert. It may come as a kit with a drill bit and the tap for the incert and the install tool. i've just done small bolts this way, never spark plugs. joey would prob know where to get the stuff and the technical dictionary term. lol.
--Black2g -
where's the theory on this situation joe???? ha ha and also who invented this "idea" and tool????
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Snap on rethreading tool would be what you would want to start with (thread chaser). It would help if you gave me the number off of the spark plugs that are in the bike. I think the NGK-CR8E is right but I want to make sure. I can give you the part numbers for the tool you would need from snap on once I know the plug size. When you use the thread chaser you will want to apply grease to the flutes of the tool to help hold the shavings from the cutting of the threads. I would be really careful with this though, you will want to avoid getting shavings in the cylinder at all costs. But if some does its not going to kill the engine sense the little shavings will be soft aluminum.
If it comes down to doing a insert name brand being a Time-Sert like nick said I would say would want someone with some past experience to do this or help you with it. Here is a link to the Time-Sert site. The head WILL need to be removed to do this.
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Yeah that is the correct tap size for it. With that fine of thread though I would maybe want to try a rethreading tool first before a tap. snap on TRT101 is the part number for the rethreading tool. Getting those threads that are in the head fixed is the only really right fix for this. Anytime you drill and insert a plug hole you are taking the chance for problems. So be careful with the rethreading tool or tap. Make sure you get it started strait with the hole.
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