MDGFAB can not deliver AGAIN!!!!
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DelSlow;288025 wrote:
I dunno, looked to me as if 1/2 the welds were missing on the bottom half of the cage. I'm not sure if it is designed that way, but I couldn't see how a 'half moon' type weld would be structurally sound on the base of a cage...but then again, could be the way it's suppose to.I can't remember off the top of my head for sure, but I think NHRA only requires a certain amount of area welded? I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure its something like that...
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for roll bars anyway
"4:10 ROLL BARS
Mandatory in all cars running 11.49 or quicker, or per Class
Requirements. All roll bars must be within 6 inches of the rear
or side of the driver’s head, extend in height at least 3 inches
above the driver’s helmet with driver in normal driving position,
and be at least as wide as the driver’s shoulders or within 1
inch of the driver’s door. Roll bar must be adequately supported
or cross-braced to prevent forward or lateral collapse. Rear
braces must be of the same diameter and wall thickness as the
roll bar and intersect with the roll bar at a point not more than 5
inches from the top of the roll bar. Crossbar and rear braces
must be welded to main hoop. Sidebar must be included on
driver’s side and must pass the driver at a point midway
between the shoulder and elbow. Swing-out sidebar permitted.
All roll bars must have in their construction a cross bar for seat
bracing and as the shoulder-harness attachment point; cross
bar must be installed no more than 4 inches below, and not
above, the driver’s shoulders or to side bar. All vehicles with
OEM frame (i.e., pickup truck where body bolts to framerails)
must have roll bar welded or bolted to frame. Installation offrame connectors on unibody cars does not constitute a frame;
therefore, it is not necessary to have the roll bar attached to the
frame. Unibody cars with stock floor and firewall (wheeltubs
permitted) may attach roll bar with 6-inch x 6-inch x .125-inch
steel plates on top and bottom of floor bolted together with at
least four 3/8-inch bolts and nuts, or weld main hoop to rocker
sill area with .125-inch reinforcing plates, with plates welded
completely. All 4130 chrome moly tube welding must be done by
approved TIG heliarc process; mild steel welding must be done
by approved MIG wire feed or approved TIG heliarc process.
Welding must be free of slag and porosity. Any grinding of
welds prohibited. See illustration. Roll bar must be padded
anywhere driver’s helmet may contact it while in driving
position. Adequate padding must have minimum 1/4-inch
compression or meet SFI Spec 45.1." -
zbrown;288030 wrote:
for roll bars anyway"4:10 ROLL BARS
Mandatory in all cars running 11.49 or quicker, or per Class
Requirements. All roll bars must be within 6 inches of the rear
or side of the driver’s head, extend in height at least 3 inches
above the driver’s helmet with driver in normal driving position,
and be at least as wide as the driver’s shoulders or within 1
inch of the driver’s door. Roll bar must be adequately supported
or cross-braced to prevent forward or lateral collapse. Rear
braces must be of the same diameter and wall thickness as the
roll bar and intersect with the roll bar at a point not more than 5
inches from the top of the roll bar. Crossbar and rear braces
must be welded to main hoop. Sidebar must be included on
driver’s side and must pass the driver at a point midway
between the shoulder and elbow. Swing-out sidebar permitted.
All roll bars must have in their construction a cross bar for seat
bracing and as the shoulder-harness attachment point; cross
bar must be installed no more than 4 inches below, and not
above, the driver’s shoulders or to side bar. All vehicles with
OEM frame (i.e., pickup truck where body bolts to framerails)
must have roll bar welded or bolted to frame. Installation offrame connectors on unibody cars does not constitute a frame;
therefore, it is not necessary to have the roll bar attached to the
frame. Unibody cars with stock floor and firewall (wheeltubs
permitted) may attach roll bar with 6-inch x 6-inch x .125-inch
steel plates on top and bottom of floor bolted together with at
least four 3/8-inch bolts and nuts, or weld main hoop to rocker
sill area with .125-inch reinforcing plates, with plates welded
completely. All 4130 chrome moly tube welding must be done by
approved TIG heliarc process; mild steel welding must be done
by approved MIG wire feed or approved TIG heliarc process.
Welding must be free of slag and porosity. Any grinding of
welds prohibited. See illustration. Roll bar must be padded
anywhere driver’s helmet may contact it while in driving
position. Adequate padding must have minimum 1/4-inch
compression or meet SFI Spec 45.1."Ok so definitely not legal.
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Plates welded completely yes! Also remember this is a drift car not a drag car go to formulaD.com for there regulations
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For just your normal drift event it is just a minnimum 4 point with door bars to tandem but a formulaD event I am not possitive I have the rule book at home ill have to check and will post copy of what it says. But as for any plan drift event he is legal
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I did the cage back in the day when my car looked like this...
I was 17 or so at the time. First cage I ever made, shitty welder, didn't know enough about what I was doing. It was made to pass Club FR Drift Day specs for tandem runs. It passes tech there, but would not pass FD tech due to the two missing weld spots. I can simply finish the weld on the two rear down tubes and it would pass FD tech. Regardless, the whole cage sucks as far as fit and finish, not going to argue with that. It stiffened up the chassis like crazy though.
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And for those who are curious, you can see some progress of the car here: http://www.d-town.us/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4669
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Xracer;288052 wrote:
I'll make my statements when this job is complete. He said i'd have it by tomorrow (well today really since its 2am now) so we'll see what happens.Huh? You're never gonna fit in around here being all nice and stuff....
In all seriousness, thanks for not adding to the drama and for giving Matt a chance to redeem himself in your eyes. Everything Matt has ever done for me turned out nice (and on time) so I don't think quality will be the deciding factor.
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Trafik Jamz;288060 wrote:
In all seriousness, thanks for not adding to the drama and for giving Matt a chance to redeem himself in your eyes. Everything Matt has ever done for me turned out nice (and on time) so I don't think quality will be the deciding factor.and i am in the same boat as you. i have had 2 turbo setups by matt and i coulden't be any happier. and has completed then in a timely manner.
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he did a few things for my RX7 and they were done in a few hours of me asking for them. And on weekends.
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I can see not much has changed w/ your work ethics. See Matt the problem is you work when you feel like it not when you need to. Someday you'll realize your not gonna make more working less. Being a business owner you set your own fate and you should be working 50+ hours a week knocking projects out to try make the cut but for some reason you dont think you need to do that and your trying to demand respect from people when you haven't proven yourself in any aspect whatsoever. You have no credability, reliability, or backround so be doing what your doing and calling people out as you do. Poor work ethic will outweigh good work quality all day everyday as soon as you figure that out you might go somewhere but until then your going to just keep digging these holes.
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Major ouchies to this fella mat.
For shame, because that RB manifold looks very, very well done.I don't know, for some doing stuff like this is a real passion and you couldn't keep them away from it, and for others its just a job, and they just don't eat/sleep/live this stuff. Oh well.
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