Attention Euro owners/fans
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they have lower ball joint issues and end up needed the entire lower control arm. if its both sides it could be up to 800 dollars ish. and i know that only fixes it for a year or two then you get to do it again
here a psht, there psht, everywhere a psht psht
PVC SQUAD MEMBER #2- 95 CIVIC EX- DD 320whp on a mustang dyno
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A buddy of mine has an A4, his psycho ex-girlfriend stole all of his keys for it and never gave them back. Now he has to get a new ignition switch and keys and will probably end up having to sell it. So yeah, I probably wouldn't buy one.
Sterling Archer: Oh my god! You killed a hooker!
Cyril Figgis: Call girl!
Sterling Archer: No Cyril! When they're dead they're just hookers!
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I wouldn't let any of this scare you away from a German car.
You will fall in love and never go back. I promise you.
To do cosmetic mods: h&r lowering springs, Wheels (VMR 710's), debadge, and tint.
As far as real power gainers??? I am really not sure
http://www.audizine.com/The German car scene is so much different than JDM shit. The guys are generally very friendly and I am SURE they will be willing to help you out with any questions.
And another thing thats added w/ a german car: Some class.
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Trafik Jamz;293157 wrote:
I'm assuming you guys know a lot more about the Audi A4 Quattro 2.0T (B7) than I do.What is the good/bad/other about this car?
Is it reliable?How well does it take to mild mods (intake, bov, exhaust, etc...)?
Is the ECU reflashable or are you required to go the AEM route?
Thanks in advance.
is it getting too crowded over there on the urabus bandwagon?
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Eurofan;293193 wrote:
I wouldn't let any of this scare you away from a German car.You will fall in love and never go back. I promise you.
To do cosmetic mods: h&r lowering springs, Wheels (VMR 710's), debadge, and tint.
As far as real power gainers??? I am really not sure
http://www.audizine.com/The German car scene is so much different than JDM shit. The guys are generally very friendly and I am SURE they will be willing to help you out with any questions.
And another thing thats added w/ a german car: Some class.
So how far up you ass is your head?
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A lot of ass-talking here.
Chuck, I have an 07 A4 2.0T 6 speed wagon and its the fucking balls. I've got 30k miles on it. Zero electrical problems. It is loaded.. I think the only factory options it doesn't have are Sat Radio and the S-line appearance package. The factory Nav, Bluetooth, etc are great. My wife loves it and so does my kid. Gets 31mpg pretty regularly, can still fit [some] 16 rims for cheap snow tires. Extremely quiet.
I've had two issues on the car:
- intermittent soft brake pedal in extremely hot weather
-- dealer figured it was probably a master cylinder issue. I need to do the brake fluid soon and if after bleeding and putting in superblue i still get this, i'll probably raise a stink over it to get them to fix it. - a rough idle / cold start problem that was fixed by replacing a hose [or something]
The B7 is a huge leap forward over previous audis. The 2.0T engine is great and the factory brakes are finally good enough [320mm vented fronts].
The 2.0T is flashable and supports multiple programs.
APR and GIAC are the biggest vendors. With APR at least, you do have to go to an authorized dealer to have the flash done -- they don't give you "rom.zip" and tell you to party.
Intake and BOV mods are not useful. Exhaust is, with downpipe being more useful still. Several are available. A cat back on this car is normally full stainless and is around $1k.
K04 and GT28 turbo kits are showing up, and are both spendy ($4-6k)
The complicating factor for big power on the 2.0T is that it is DI, so to get more fuel in there you are messing with an outrageously high pressure fuel system. The mechanical pump is cam driven. APR makes a fueling kit that seems to work well for people.
Additionally, it looks like even on stock vehicles the fuel pump cam follower is a wear item; not replacing it soon enough will eventually cause lobe wear on the cam shaft. It's a DIY job and a dealer won't touch it unless an MIL is lit. I haven't looked at mine yet, fwiw.
If you want to stop by and check it out later tonight I'm available.
- intermittent soft brake pedal in extremely hot weather
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ichibankilla;293190 wrote:
A buddy of mine has an A4, his psycho ex-girlfriend stole all of his keys for it and never gave them back. Now he has to get a new ignition switch and keys and will probably end up having to sell it. So yeah, I probably wouldn't buy one.Dealer should be able to get him new keys cut and programmed if he shows up with the title.
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thrash;293222 wrote:
A lot of ass-talking here.Chuck, I have an 07 A4 2.0T 6 speed wagon and its the fucking balls. I've got 30k miles on it. Zero electrical problems. It is loaded.. I think the only factory options it doesn't have are Sat Radio and the S-line appearance package. The factory Nav, Bluetooth, etc are great. My wife loves it and so does my kid. Gets 31mpg pretty regularly, can still fit [some] 16 rims for cheap snow tires. Extremely quiet.
I've had two issues on the car:
- intermittent soft brake pedal in extremely hot weather
-- dealer figured it was probably a master cylinder issue. I need to do the brake fluid soon and if after bleeding and putting in superblue i still get this, i'll probably raise a stink over it to get them to fix it. - a rough idle / cold start problem that was fixed by replacing a hose [or something]
The B7 is a huge leap forward over previous audis. The 2.0T engine is great and the factory brakes are finally good enough [320mm vented fronts].
The 2.0T is flashable and supports multiple programs.
APR and GIAC are the biggest vendors. With APR at least, you do have to go to an authorized dealer to have the flash done -- they don't give you "rom.zip" and tell you to party.
Intake and BOV mods are not useful. Exhaust is, with downpipe being more useful still. Several are available. A cat back on this car is normally full stainless and is around $1k.
K04 and GT28 turbo kits are showing up, and are both spendy ($4-6k)
The complicating factor for big power on the 2.0T is that it is DI, so to get more fuel in there you are messing with an outrageously high pressure fuel system. The mechanical pump is cam driven. APR makes a fueling kit that seems to work well for people.
Additionally, it looks like even on stock vehicles the fuel pump cam follower is a wear item; not replacing it soon enough will eventually cause lobe wear on the cam shaft. It's a DIY job and a dealer won't touch it unless an MIL is lit. I haven't looked at mine yet, fwiw.
If you want to stop by and check it out later tonight I'm available.
Do you think 30k miles is a lot or something?
- intermittent soft brake pedal in extremely hot weather
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thrash;293239 wrote:
You should ask a moderator to delete my message. Clearly you are adding more value to the discussion.So you had problems with your car and it only had 30k, and you think its reliable? Why would I ask a mod to delete your message, its a damn internet forum, you going to cry now.
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maybe chuck would get more information if the only people who respond are the people with direct experience with newer vw/audi vehicles?
the only problems i've had with my car include the one-touch window controls and how they sometimes move the window back down after going up with the one-touch functionality. granted, i may just need to pay closer attention to how far a push the switch when closing the window.
if anyone here had any useful information about ecu options, they would have made reference to ross-tech or vag com http://www.ross-tech.com/index.html
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thrash;293241 wrote:
once your car makes it to 230,000 miles on the original fuel pump, tranny, and motor, you can tell me how good euro cars are. My exploder did, and I beat the crap out of it. I was 15-16 when I had it neutral bombed it many times. All I ever had to fix on that on the 6 years we owned it bought it in 2000 and sold it in 06 or 07 was an cv boot because i tore it on a rock out hunting. My current car is at 216,000 and I just recently replaced the original thermostat. The tranny did go out but that was my fault at 180,000 miles. and its a ford.
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Bp-08;293243 wrote:
once your car makes it to 230,000 miles on the original fuel pump, tranny, and motor, you can tell me how good euro cars are. My exploder did, and I beat the crap out of it. I was 15-16 when I had it neutral bombed it many times. All I ever had to fix on that on the 6 years we owned it bought it in 2000 and sold it in 06 or 07 was an cv boot because i tore it on a rock out hunting. My current car is at 216,000 and I just recently replaced the original thermostat. The tranny did go out but that was my fault at 180,000 miles. and its a ford.h0 h0 h0!
There is a 200,000 mile BMW in my garage right now. 3 of the 6 German cars I've owned were in the 200,000 mile range.
I fondly remember the decidedly non-German cars that left me stranded though:
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My 85 Bronco II's engine sputtered out and died and wouldn't refire. I was driving it up a mountain and it just ran out of air or something. After I had it towed back down the mountain, it started back up again. Tow truck driver laughed at me. Go Ford!
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My 70 Cutlass blew its engine, because I had the nerve to run it wide-open on the interstate for about 30 mins [it would only hit 90mph.. wtf kind of peice of shit is that?].
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My 91 celica had 3 clutches in the time we owned it. I let a friend borrow it and she shredded what was left of it, leaving her stranded on the highway in Seattle.
I've done hundreds (if not thousands) of laps of BIR in high-miles BMWs. Then I drive them back to Fargo when I'm all done. I think the only on-track issue I had was throwing a belt. Went to napa and threw on another one, and that was that. I was back out for the next session.
IIRC, on the Ferrari 355 you pull the engine out of the car every 15,000 miles to do an engine service. Is it unreliable? Should Ferrari owners drive ford explorers?
Stop shitting in this thread -- it's a question about a specific car, not a solicitation for uninformed anecdotes.
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