Attention Euro owners/fans
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Jim;293268 wrote:
Lol i think you're talking about VW guysmy apologies good sir... most commonly describing those dreaded VDub guys lol
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Bp-08;293243 wrote:
once your car makes it to 230,000 miles on the original fuel pump, tranny, and motor, you can tell me how good euro cars are. My exploder did, and I beat the crap out of it. I was 15-16 when I had it neutral bombed it many times. All I ever had to fix on that on the 6 years we owned it bought it in 2000 and sold it in 06 or 07 was an cv boot because i tore it on a rock out hunting. My current car is at 216,000 and I just recently replaced the original thermostat. The tranny did go out but that was my fault at 180,000 miles. and its a ford.I have over 200 thousand on my Mercedes The only parts that have been replaced are the Ignition switch and the starter.
As for the Audi's I think its hit and miss, i have heard both sides. however, my buddy, yes the same guy Ichi was talking about has an a4 and had many electrical problems, ABS, Airbag readiness lights, Cold start valve issues, idle control issues, window elevator breaking, and vacuum system problems. seems like he takes it to get repaired and within a month or two there's more shit to fix. It's a nice car, and fun to drive, but it is a money pit repair wise.
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24valvenotak;293212 wrote:
is it getting too crowded over there on the urabus bandwagon?Shit, I've been on the WRX bandwagon since 2001....
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Bp-08;293243 wrote:
once your car makes it to 230,000 miles on the original fuel pump, tranny, and motor, you can tell me how good euro cars are. My exploder did, and I beat the crap out of it. I was 15-16 when I had it neutral bombed it many times. All I ever had to fix on that on the 6 years we owned it bought it in 2000 and sold it in 06 or 07 was an cv boot because i tore it on a rock out hunting. My current car is at 216,000 and I just recently replaced the original thermostat. The tranny did go out but that was my fault at 180,000 miles. and its a ford.My 1999 Chevy 3/4 ton is at 268,XXX miles right now, that must mean that it is the best tuner car around....right? My WRX broke a ring land at ~30,000 miles meaning it is utter horseshit I assume?
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Sorry guys, I'm going to take the advice of thrash/jim/eurofan on this. They seem to have a better feel for what is going to happen if I just buy the car to drive. Not to race, not to mod (extensively), etc...just to drive from home to work and back again and the occasional trip out of town.
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Bp-08;293243 wrote:
once your car makes it to 230,000 miles on the original fuel pump, tranny, and motor, you can tell me how good euro cars are. My exploder did, and I beat the crap out of it. I was 15-16 when I had it neutral bombed it many times. All I ever had to fix on that on the 6 years we owned it bought it in 2000 and sold it in 06 or 07 was an cv boot because i tore it on a rock out hunting. My current car is at 216,000 and I just recently replaced the original thermostat. The tranny did go out but that was my fault at 180,000 miles. and its a ford.Do you honestly think anyone gives a flying fuck about your ford that you shit on daily????? How is that helping the OP in anyway???? Do me a favor and tie your hands behind your back when youre viewing threads. God people that ruin forums like this make me fucking angry inside. Just stop
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Don't worry, the OP has been on this board long enough to weed out the bullshit and ignore/antagonize the idiots.
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Eurofan;293338 wrote:
Do you honestly think anyone gives a flying fuck about your ford that you shit on daily????? How is that helping the OP in anyway???? Do me a favor and tie your hands behind your back when youre viewing threads. God people that ruin forums like this make me fucking angry inside. Just stopMaybe you shouldnt get so angry inside?
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Not to bump a kind of up and down thread, but I figured it'd be better than starting a completely new one for basically the same thing.
I'm looking at B5 S4/A4's, and a few B6 A4's. Anyone have any direct experience or advice? I know the 1.8T motor is pretty decent and I do plan to mod, atleast a K04(s). I know the S4 is a BITCH to work on, so I'm kinda lookin for one that has a newish clutch or aftermarket.
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Jim;293158 wrote:
Everybody that I know with an Audi has electrical problems.we have an A6 and a taureg,,, with eletrical problems. And they cost a ton to keep running.
who is this eurofag anyways? meh
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PSiedTSi;296167 wrote:
Not to bump a kind of up and down thread, but I figured it'd be better than starting a completely new one for basically the same thing.I'm looking at B5 S4/A4's, and a few B6 A4's. Anyone have any direct experience or advice? I know the 1.8T motor is pretty decent and I do plan to mod, atleast a K04(s). I know the S4 is a BITCH to work on, so I'm kinda lookin for one that has a newish clutch or aftermarket.
The B6 is a much better car, but in 1.8T trim you have to be careful about what year you buy with respect to things like brake setup, body-painted valences and rockers, etc.
The B5 S4 is a legendary car, but you have the pull the entire engine to replace the turbos. I don't know if there's much rhyme or reason to when they fail and what causes it. There are low mileage stock S4s that shat their K03s. You're definitely better off buying a Stage3 S4 from someone else with all the quirks worked out unless you're modding-for-fun. You'll certainly pay less. Guys on the quattroworld.com S4 forum are always unloading their S4s so look there for what enthusiast-owned cars are going for [and what people do to them].
The 1.8T turbo/engine failures tend to be from dipshits that didn't use real oil or didn't change it often enough. The good news is that even dropping a yard motor into one of these things isn't a deal breaker, as that motor was reasonably common.
The other good news about turbo failure is that K04s are cheaper than putting K03s back in
IMO the B5 looks better exterior wise, but the B6 is the better car -- at least in A4 trim.
If you go with a 1.8T, budget for K03 failure and plan to do the K04 upgrade at that time. Also plan on replacing some coilpacks, and become friends with someone with a VCDS.
I don't find these cars especially expensive to own if you can DIY and can use the internet. I did the timing belt and all associated stuff [crank seals, water pump, tensioners, etc] on a 96 A4. I spent a weekend on it and I'd never done a TB before. You just rent the factory tools and follow the detailed instructions on the internet. A timing belt job on any audi is at least $1k from a shop, but i think i did the whole deal for a few hundred bucks.
You need a few goofy special tools [triple-square 12pt bits] to really start taking things apart, but i even got those in town from Berg.
You might want to cross-shop the VW Passat from 2001.5 to whenever the new body style hit [2005?] -- the B5.5 generation Passat is a B5 A4 with a long wheel base. HUGE interior room compared to the A4. Same motors, gearboxes, quattro system, etc. Repair manuals cover both cars, if that tells you anything
It can be hard to find one with the 4Motion + stick setup, but they're out there.The "model guide" on Audiworld.com under the "Resources" menu will help you understand the standard/optional equipment on year-to-year changes. It can help you narrow down what years to look at.
I bought a friend a 96 A4 quattro 5spd a few years back from Imports Plus for like $5k. It's a very capable car for that money, and they've kept getting cheaper and cheaper since then.
The B5 is getting old enough that you're going to want to look at replacing rubber in the suspension just as a matter of principle. The suspension is complicated and expensive -- check out control arm kits on ecstuning.com to get an idea of what you're up against. Doing the brakes is a little funny -- you screw the rear pistons back into the calipers while compressing them like normal. This is because of the integral rear-parking brake. Additionally, the parking brake is actuated by somethig akin to bowden cables, and when the front wheels spin they spray winter-road-shit all over those cables and the rear calipers. Invariably the cables or the external actuators seize up. It's pretty common to find non-functional e-brakes on older audis that have lived in winter climates. Worse case is two new e-brake cables and new rear calipers.
The fancy-ass auto-HVAC unit will tend to lose pixels / display elements with age. Shokan and Force5 are audi recyclers that will sell you used HVAC units in known condition.
It's probably worth doing a VCDS scan/reset of any car you're looking at, then driving it, then scanning it again.
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GhettoFabulousCRX;296169 wrote:
we have an A6 and a taureg,,, with eletrical problems. And they cost a ton to keep running.I had some electrical problems with my 88 Audi. I plugged the defroster switch into the drivers seat-heater socket [or something like that]. The dash wiring harness started smoking. It was exactly like watching a lit-fuse in a warner bros cartoon.. i watched smoke start to pour out of the center console... then watched it crawl across the dashboard, under the instrument cluster, over to where the main fuse panel was. Luckily the seat-heater wiring was a separate assembly in the main harness routing, so i just unplugged it at both ends and did a little electrical tape surgery on the neighboring wires.
I think audi should have put better fusing on the wires that melted their insulation. But that was 20 years ago. American and Japanese cars still hadn't heard of seat heaters, heated mirrors, heated door locks, and all of the other cool shit this car had.
In any case, I haven't had any electrical problems to speak of in 80,000 miles of Passat ownership or 35,000 of A4 ownership. The VCDS will tell you pretty quick what the car thinks is wrong with itself. I'd say owning one is essential for owning an out-of-warranty VW/Audi product.
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