Car sputtering under heavy load
-
bluejays wrote:
unless you own a dsmI know a lot of people like to make jokes about DSMs, but what I was referring to should be applied to any vehicle. It goes along with the American way of driving a car until it breaks, rather than getting regular maintenance performed. Car owners are lazy and would rather take the quick solution.
-
Cap /rotor is an easy switch.
4 screws/8mm bolts will hold the cap onto the distributor. Take those out to remove the cap. Once you have the cap off look at the contacts inside the cap, chances are, especially if its an old distributor, that the contacts are either corroded and beat up, or there is little to no contact left.
The rotor inside the distributor is also held on with a single phillips screw. That one can sometimes be a whore to get off, and odds are that it is not working very well.
OBD 0 distributors always seem to have problems with the rotor especially.
First things first I would go ahead and and pick up a new cap/rotor, which you can get from any parts store in town. -
Alright, first thing I'm going to do on satuday is probably pick up a new cap and rotor...couldn't hurt right?
As far as checking the voltage on the tps I've got a voltmeter, and from what I understand on hondas it is .49 - 4.9, so I should just be able to have somone sit in the car and slowly open up the throttle while I watch the voltmeter, correct?
-
Alright, here's the question now:
Like I said, I'm not too familiar with the ignition on these motors. The ecu is obd0 and the head is a b16. Now, when I bought the car I can remember the seller telling me that the dizzy on their was either obd1 or and ls dizzy. I can't remember for sure, but I know something was different about it. So my question is, are caps/rotors interchangable between all the b-series?
Also, I've read up and found it could possibly be the ignitor....??? Sound possible?
-
When a honda ignitor dies they usually leave the car stranded.
OBD I distributor is unlikely as well, as you don't have an OBD 0 -> OBD 1 harness conversion installed. LS distributor would be noticeable because one of the ears of the dizzy would have to be cut off in order to bolt it to the b16 head. -
Hmm...I am going to inspect the dizzy tomorrow. But I am almost positive that he said he had to trim something in order to get the dizzy to work with the head. In the case that it is an LS dizzy, should I buy a cap and rotor for the b18a or for the b16? Come to think of it, it would be impossible to buy a cap/rotor for a obd0 b16 specific distributor, so I'd have to get the LS pieces, right (assuming they are different).
-
If you cut a leg off of the distributor it is an LS and you will watn a B18a cap/rotor. If not, some USDM parts will work on the OBD 0 b16 distributors. I think obd II GSR might be the correct fit, but do not quote me on that, as it has been a few years since I've had to round up OBD 0 dizzy parts.
-
Someone recently mentioned that my cam timing might be off, unfortunately I have never adjusted it before, and its possible that after replacing the timing belt and crank pulley that it has moved, so I need to know how to check it:
From what I understand, I turn the motor until the markings on the cam gears point to eachother, then I check the marking on the crank pulley and see that it lines up with the notch on the lower timing belt cover...does this sound correct?
-
Correct. Line the cam gears up with each other, and then check the timing belt down by the crank pulley. If the markings line up down there, then you should be fine.
I would say with the way your car was running this weekend that the timing belt isn't off. Have you rounded up some distributor parts yet?
-
Yep, going to get the cap and coil from napa today...going to replace it this evening. I remember doing the timing on a SOHC motor back in the day, and I kept having problems with the belt skipping a tooth. The motor would hardly run afterwards, which leads me to believe that my timing is probably fine.
edit
Cap and Coil from napa totaled like $120....typically no biggy, but I can opt for the msd modified dizzy cap and external coil for like $80. I am going to be going with the digital 6 or 7 in the near future, so I think I am going to order the MSD stuff now and use it with an inline ballast resistor until I get my digital unit.
-
You shouldn't need the coil. I'd just opt for the cap/rotor.
I might have a GSR cap/coil in my storage shed somewhere as well.
-
Sure thing, msn screename is [email protected]...I'll answer everything I can.
-
I don't remember if the caps are the same, however the coil would probably work. I will try and get over there in the next couple days to find it.
Hello! It looks like you're interested in this conversation, but you don't have an account yet.
Getting fed up of having to scroll through the same posts each visit? When you register for an account, you'll always come back to exactly where you were before, and choose to be notified of new replies (either via email, or push notification). You'll also be able to save bookmarks and upvote posts to show your appreciation to other community members.
With your input, this post could be even better 💗
Register Login