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  4. Proper Engine Break In?

Proper Engine Break In?

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved Car Tech
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  • harwood39H Offline
    harwood39H Offline
    harwood39
    wrote on last edited by
    #3

    so i can run it with the ITB's right away than with tuning of coarse.

    Harwood Development - Emergency Vehicle Upfitter

    2730 5th Ave S. Unit C
    Fargo, ND 58103
    701-429-3686

    Rontan, D&R Electronics, Feniex, Federal Signal, SVP/Star, Bradford, Tufloc, Lund, Code3, Sound-Off, Nova, Copeland, Power-Arc, Recon

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    • P Offline
      P Offline
      PSI2HI
      wrote on last edited by
      #4

      Run whatever you want, just make sure you dont run it pig ass rich or you're gonna wash the cylinders right out esp on a new motor.

      "Just because you know it all doesn't mean you can do it all"

      "If you can't afford to do it right the first time can you afford to do it a second time?"

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      • Sweet-WRX-LovinS Offline
        Sweet-WRX-LovinS Offline
        Sweet-WRX-Lovin
        wrote on last edited by
        #5

        Just make sure it's as warmed up as possible. I'm assuming your going for a hard break in for hard use here? Tufte has a good point also there.

        One time...

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        • wesholeW Offline
          wesholeW Offline
          weshole
          wrote on last edited by
          #6

          Break it in how you intend on driving it. Making sure it is properlly tuned of course. If it is going to have a problem, odds are it'll be right away.

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          • harwood39H Offline
            harwood39H Offline
            harwood39
            wrote on last edited by
            #7

            So beat the piss out of it to break it in?

            Harwood Development - Emergency Vehicle Upfitter

            2730 5th Ave S. Unit C
            Fargo, ND 58103
            701-429-3686

            Rontan, D&R Electronics, Feniex, Federal Signal, SVP/Star, Bradford, Tufloc, Lund, Code3, Sound-Off, Nova, Copeland, Power-Arc, Recon

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            0
            • wesholeW Offline
              wesholeW Offline
              weshole
              wrote on last edited by
              #8

              Oops, sorry Harwood. Did't mean to modify your post. But ya I would drive it like I stole it. If there's sopmething amiss, you'll know soon enough. But as Tufte said, make sure it is properly tuned first.

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              • harwood39H Offline
                harwood39H Offline
                harwood39
                wrote on last edited by
                #9

                Ok, i just recieved this from Kingpin Motorsports.

                The window of opportunity for achieving an exceptional ring seal is much smaller with engines than it was with the older “rough honed” engines, that grandpa drove easy for 1000 miles.

                How to break in your engine

                Break in is extremely important, so overlooked, usually not performed correctly or not at all and usually is not thought or practiced. Procedures apply to steel cylinders as well as (Nickel Seal).

                Breaking In your engine

                I won’t go into the bearing aspects. Bearing really don’t break in. You either did or didn’t set them up correctly and clean. The piston ring seal is what most of the break in process is all about. Piston rings don’t seal the combustion pressure by their tension. The ring tension is necessary only to “scrape” the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber. Rings give very low spring pressure (about 7 lbs) against the bore. It can not seal against hundreds and thousands of PSI. How do rings seal against combustion pressure? What actually happens is the gas pressures passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind to force it outward against the cylinder wall. One problem is that new rings are not perfect and must be “worn” in to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine’s break in then the entire ring will wear into the cylinder surface to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible.

                “Old school go easy, go slow, no load break in, easy break in… bad plan”

                The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to “wear” the rings. The rings quickly wear down the “peaks” of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run. There’s a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well…the first 20-40 minutes. If the rings aren’t forced against the walls soon enough, they’ll use up the roughness or “peaks” before they fully seat. If this happens there is not much you can do except full it down, re-ring and try again.
                If you use a dyno with a brake, you can make a big mistake. It is very important during break – in that you allow the engine to decelerate fully on its own. During closed throttle deceleration, vacuum sucks the excess oil and off the cylinder walls. Micro partial of the rings and bore of ring and cylinder material which are part of the normal wear during this process. During deceleration, the particles suspended in the oil blow out the exhaust, rather than accumulating the ring grooves between the piston and rings.
                Don’t start up until you’re really ready. The reason new rings don’t seat all the way around their circumference. The gas pressure from hard acceleration forces the rings to contact the cylinders around their entire circumference, which is the only way the rings can properly wear into the exact of the cylinder to seal the combustion pressure. The loss in power from an easy break – in poor ring seal can be anywhere from 2% - 10%! No synthetic oil!!!
                Kevin I look forward to giving your DPR training seminars in the Caribbean soon. It is very cold over here. I hope this helps I will go over all of the break in procedures that include percentages of rpm, temperatures, and throttle positions which are a very big part of the break in procedure.

                DPR Engine Break-In Procedures for Dyno

                Warm the engine up completely!! Then, using 4th gear.
                Three ½ throttle dyno runs from 40 – 60% of your engine’s max rpm. Cool down.
                Three ¾ throttle dyno runs from 40 – 80% of your engine’s max rpm. Cool down.
                Three full throttle dyno runs from 30 – 100% of your engine’s max rpm. Cool down.

                DPR Engine Break-In Procedures for Street

                Warm the engine up completely!
                The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.
                The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration.

                DPR Engine Break-In Procedures for Racetrack

                Warm the engine up completely!
                Do one easy lap.
                The racetrack is perfect to break in an engine!! Acceleration and deceleration is for sealing the rings.
                Great, go for it!!

                DPR Engine Break-In “What not to do”

                Don’t even start it up until you’re ready to warm it up for the first ride.
                The reason is that brand new rings don’t seat all the way around the 360 degrees of their circumference. The gas pressure from hard acceleration forces the rings to contact the cylinder around their entire circumference, which is the only way the rings can properly wear into the exact shape of the cylinder to seal the combustion pressure.

                To be continued…

                sorry about the long post guys, just posted what i got via email.

                Harwood Development - Emergency Vehicle Upfitter

                2730 5th Ave S. Unit C
                Fargo, ND 58103
                701-429-3686

                Rontan, D&R Electronics, Feniex, Federal Signal, SVP/Star, Bradford, Tufloc, Lund, Code3, Sound-Off, Nova, Copeland, Power-Arc, Recon

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                • harwood39H Offline
                  harwood39H Offline
                  harwood39
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #10

                  also i need someone that can tune chrome or uber data. My ECU is set up for datalogging also. The previous owner was running ubber data.

                  Harwood Development - Emergency Vehicle Upfitter

                  2730 5th Ave S. Unit C
                  Fargo, ND 58103
                  701-429-3686

                  Rontan, D&R Electronics, Feniex, Federal Signal, SVP/Star, Bradford, Tufloc, Lund, Code3, Sound-Off, Nova, Copeland, Power-Arc, Recon

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                  0
                  • SmitEvoS Offline
                    SmitEvoS Offline
                    SmitEvo
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #11

                    Just dont let torbs touch your car.............

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                    • integra_gsr98I Offline
                      integra_gsr98I Offline
                      integra_gsr98
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #12

                      I have everything to tune crome or uberdata.

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                      • wesholeW Offline
                        wesholeW Offline
                        weshole
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #13

                        integra_gsr98 wrote:
                        I have everything to tune crome or uberdata.

                        There you go Harwood. Break out some of that moldy $$$$ and have
                        Mr. Thompson tune it.

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                        • harwood39H Offline
                          harwood39H Offline
                          harwood39
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #14

                          well, then, once i get a chip and my datalogging cable(and the motor in my car) thats what i will do

                          Harwood Development - Emergency Vehicle Upfitter

                          2730 5th Ave S. Unit C
                          Fargo, ND 58103
                          701-429-3686

                          Rontan, D&R Electronics, Feniex, Federal Signal, SVP/Star, Bradford, Tufloc, Lund, Code3, Sound-Off, Nova, Copeland, Power-Arc, Recon

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