speaker loudness
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the way the speaker will respond is dependent on how much power you're giving it in relation to how much it can take.
your radio is probably putting out... 10 watts rms (constant) to the factory speaker which is rated for 8-12watts rms. however, the aftermarket one is rated for 40-60 watts rms (peak 100). this means your factory speaker is operating more in it's efficiency range than the aftermarket one. make sense? if i remember everything correctly from when i was into stereo equipment... -
Because factory speakers have a difference frequency response compared to your aftermarket speaker. Your old speakers are able to reproduce the lower frequencies better than your aftermarket speakers. It's about how the speaker is designed. But you will also note that over time (and as it gets warmer out) the upper and lower frequencies will continue to improve out of your new speaker.
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lets see, there are a variety of reasons that the aftermarket speaker isn't producing the amount of bass the stock one is. It could be that the aftermarket one is crossed over internally (or even externally) to block the lower frequencies. Another thought is that it may not be exactly in phase w/ the OEM unit so the bass seems diminished on that side of the vehicle due to cancellation (not likely, you'd probably notice this happening in both speakers, rather than one). Another thought, is this a "premium" OEM system (BOSE, Infinity, etc...)? Sometimes they have matched drivers to work w/ the crossovers in the OEM amplifiers, for example a crossover that is designed for the 8 to 16 ohm OEM speaker will be several octaves off for a 4 ohm speaker. Its also possible that the aftermarket speakers didn't seal to the door as well as stock did and therefore the rear wave is cancelling out some of the bass frequencies due to that. You could try simply switching the polarity on the pioneer unit (switch the posi and neg terminals around) as this MIGHT have a small affect on bass and/or imagining.
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I really should just write a book about stereos and frequency response...or at least a LONG post like I did about the various shops in town
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Wait, Vance Dickanson already wrote THE book on this: The Loudspeaker Design Cookbook. A must read for all aspiring speaker system designers IMHO.
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right, the way speakers resonate is common sense to me to, however there is SOOOO much more to speakers than getting the phase and imagine correct (as I'm sure you know). Based on the Thiele-Small parameters you can determine what type of enclosure a given woofer will sound good in b4 you cut the first piece of MDF. It's really amazing to think how much speaker technology has come along in the past 15 years. When I was first getting started a guy by the name of Mark Fukuda held the world record in SPL w/ a 153.6 in a bright yellow 1989 Chevy S10 Blazer (one of the cleanest installs I have seen to date actually). Now, just about anyone can go out and buy a system that will be in the 150's for SPL for minimal money, and to really compete for a world record (unlimited power class) you need to be able to get into the HIGH 170's if not 180's dB. The point I'm getting at here is that with the advances in technology of the past 10 years there are literally hundreds of resources available to help you build and design a kick ass stereo system. My favorites are the Loudspeaker Design Cookbook, LEAP enclosure modeling software from LinearX, LMS from LinearX, and my Mobile Dynamics coursework books.
Another tip for those of you contemplating competition (non-SPL) is use the least amount of speakers you can for sound quality. A good pair of 6 1/2" coaxials in the kickpanels and a pair of tens in a sealed enlcosure in the trunk might win you more than you'd ever imagine.
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so what do you suggest I do with the open space around the aftermarket speaker? The factory speaker had a metal plate on it that made the oval speaker round, so now the aftermarket oval speaker has a gap on top and bottom. Anything I can put in there to help out? And tjamz, u just talking about switching the pos and neg on the speaker right?
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I'd put a 1/8" masonite baffle in there to seal up around the gaps (use the plate from the OEM speaker to create a pattern to cut the baffle) and yes, just switch posi and neg...see if it makes a difference.
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tjamz wrote:
right, the way speakers resonate is common sense to me to, however there is SOOOO much more to speakers than getting the phase and imagine correct (as I'm sure you know). Based on the Thiele-Small parameters you can determine what type of enclosure a given woofer will sound good in b4 you cut the first piece of MDF. It's really amazing to think how much speaker technology has come along in the past 15 years. When I was first getting started a guy by the name of Mark Fukuda held the world record in SPL w/ a 153.6 in a bright yellow 1989 Chevy S10 Blazer (one of the cleanest installs I have seen to date actually). Now, just about anyone can go out and buy a system that will be in the 150's for SPL for minimal money, and to really compete for a world record (unlimited power class) you need to be able to get into the HIGH 170's if not 180's dB. The point I'm getting at here is that with the advances in technology of the past 10 years there are literally hundreds of resources available to help you build and design a kick ass stereo system. My favorites are the Loudspeaker Design Cookbook, LEAP enclosure modeling software from LinearX, LMS from LinearX, and my Mobile Dynamics coursework books.Another tip for those of you contemplating competition (non-SPL) is use the least amount of speakers you can for sound quality. A good pair of 6 1/2" coaxials in the kickpanels and a pair of tens in a sealed enlcosure in the trunk might win you more than you'd ever imagine.
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