My new toy
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Rexwagon;232581 wrote:
:icon_cheers:What?
If you put aftermarket parts on they will only cover what it is to replace it at OEM part level, you pay the body shop. Now if its totalled then you can buy it back after they pay you for it. If its worth 17.5k, and your loan is lets say 20k then you will get no money extra and have to buy it back out of pocket and then pay to have it fixed out of pocket. If your loan is only 15k then you will recieve 2.5k in return of them totalling but you could still buy it back out of pocket. If you dont buy it back then they sell it to whoever. Then you can buy a real car, like an STi.:icon_cheers:
But dont worry, USAA is a really good insurance company and are great to work with. When I rolled my car back in the day they helped me out a lot.
no thanks on the sti. i drove one and liked it, then i drove an evo and loved it. if i sell it i want an FD :icon_rr:
but the reason i would with after market parts is, instead of paying 8xx for a new stock fmic, why not go with a 7xx front mount from DTM? not only with it perform better but i will get money back.
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Yeah a lot of shops will get the full payment from the insurance company and then pay you back for the parts you provide. Another option is to get an adjuster to appraise it and then get a check from the insurance company minus the deduction. That way, you could eliminate a lot of labor charges by fixing stuff that you are able to do on your own and also getting aftermarket parts. You could end up making more money off it. This could be risky though bc the adjuster's appraisal might be a lot lower. Check which method the shop uses to appraise and make sure the adjuster uses the same method. Also, after you fix the car, you have to bring it to your agent to prove it has been fixed so that your policy doesn't reflect that you have "unfixed damage". My buddy did this and it worked great for him.
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00Accord;232644 wrote:
Yeah a lot of shops will get the full payment from the insurance company and then pay you back for the parts you provide. Another option is to get an adjuster to appraise it and then get a check from the insurance company minus the deduction. That way, you could eliminate a lot of labor charges by fixing stuff that you are able to do on your own and also getting aftermarket parts. You could end up making more money off it. This could be risky though bc the adjuster's appraisal might be a lot lower. Check which method the shop uses to appraise and make sure the adjuster uses the same method. Also, after you fix the car, you have to bring it to your agent to prove it has been fixed so that your policy doesn't reflect that you have "unfixed damage". My buddy did this and it worked great for him.thats what i did. i dont know if you read it or not but...
the car is at VIP garage, the same place that has been doing all the work on the car since day one. the adjuster came, and i talked to him and marti (VIP garage owner) and they apraised 11xxx in damages. after the deduction, 300 $, and depretiation. it finally came to $105xx.xx.
so the next step is its getting ripped apart and sent to Dulles auto body, which is right next door to VIP, where all the body work is going to get taken care of. then it goes back to vip for new parts.
looking at the estimate is says i need new wheels, FMIC+pipping, oil cooler, front bumper, rear needs paint, new hood/fenders, and an assortment of other parts. this is just getting to be a HUGE mess. what sucks is that most of the body parts are aluminum so they they have to be replaced.
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00Accord;232653 wrote:
My bad. This string is getting long so I've been skimming. Can you do cf on any of the body parts to save the $ it would cost to paint?Yea. but i would only want to get a hood. cf fenders on a black car doesnt really turn my crank that well. there is plenty of used TB fenders laying around somewhere but even those are kinda pricey
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I stopped in to vip yesterday. everything seems to be going smoothly. wheels were ordered at that time as well. to get the car running again i still need a new front mount and exhaust, those will be ordered today.
My rear bumber is still in good too. just needs paint.
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no_slow_clap;232662 wrote:
Yea. but i would only want to get a hood. cf fenders on a black car doesnt really turn my crank that well. there is plenty of used TB fenders laying around somewhere but even those are kinda priceyU could just paint the CF fenders... If it's cheaper why not... That's what i'll prob do with a hood when i get it, JDM cf hood is cheaper, but I wanted a stock one... so i'll prob end up painting it
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bubba;232909 wrote:
U could just paint the CF fenders... If it's cheaper why not... That's what i'll prob do with a hood when i get it, JDM cf hood is cheaper, but I wanted a stock one... so i'll prob end up painting iti dont want cf fenders. the aluminum is lighter and i dont want to end up with fenders in pieces after going around the track with wide ass radials.
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so are you bringing it back to stock specs like exhaust intercooler piping all that or just going with aftermarket? probly be cheaper and look better when youre done.
here a psht, there psht, everywhere a psht psht
PVC SQUAD MEMBER #2- 95 CIVIC EX- DD 320whp on a mustang dyno
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after market. so far i ordered a Slow Boy Racing front mount, and an apexi N1 cat back. pending whats left after the body work i am looking into suspension, down pipe/cat delete, and cams
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went to vip yesterday to check up on a few things with the car.
It look awesome so far. most of the parts are in and on the car, but i am waiting on a few other parts though.
whats on the car now is the Koyo radiator, SBR front mount, Turbo XS down pipe, Apexi N1, Tanabe springs and the enkei RPF1's.
But right now i am waiting for the HFC to be made, and well as the upper IC pipe. and i am still waiting on the new BOV, front lip, and mini battery kit.
I wish i had pics but i wont untill i get it back.
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