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  4. Anyone familiar with flaring and bending?
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Anyone familiar with flaring and bending?

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved Car Tech
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  • S Offline
    S Offline
    seanjohn
    wrote on last edited by
    #5

    I need to go from the fuel inlet hardline, into a fuel filter with a npt fitting. What tool do I need, and how exactly does it work...I really have ZERO familiarity with it at all. I am assuming the flaring tool opens up the hard line to allow the fitting to be placed on the end, what from there?

    The bending I am concerned with for the dp nitrous setup, it is really not pertinent at all.

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    • XJHEADX Offline
      XJHEADX Offline
      XJHEAD
      wrote on last edited by
      #6

      fallguy wrote:
      Plus a flaring tool usually has the parts in it to make all types of flares...inverted etc.

      Inv. requires seperate tool...

      Link

      How to make a 45 degree double flare in 3/16 inch brake tubing

      There are several types of flares used. Most automotive brake lines use a 45 degree double flare, otherwise know as an inverted flare. However more modern vehicles are made with bubble flares. Don't confuse these with AN flares which are a 37 degree single flare. Then there are pipe fittings, but that's another story.

      A brake tube with a bubble flare is shown on the left in the first picture below, and a double flare is shown on the tube to the right in that picture. You can see how the double flare will fit into the female inverted flare fittings shown in the second picture.

      Here are the steps to make a 45 degree double flare in 3/16 inch brake tubing

      1. Cut the tubing to desired length. Make sure the cut is square to the length of the tubing. I used a mini tubing cutter. You will notice that the tubing openings are collapsed a little after the cut is made.
      2. Take a 7/32 inch drill bit and put the point into the tubing opening and turn by hand to deburr. You can compare the size of the opening before (on left) and after (on right) this deburring process. A 7/64 inch drill bit will slide into the tubing on the right and a 1/8 in drill bit will not. The 7/64 inch drill bit will not fit into the undeburred tubing end on the left.
      3. Now take a file (Craftsman 931265, 6 inch mill file) and chamfer the edge of the tubing about 1/16th inch.
      4. Put the Tubing Nut ON! PUT THE TUBING NUT ON NOW!! Very Important to remember to put the tubing nut on now or you'll have to cut off the beautiful flare you are about to make.
      5. Insert the tubing into the flaring tool (Performance Tool Double Flare Tool W80670 made by Wilmar Corp and purchased at Sears) and adjust until the tubing sticks out the proper length per your tools instructions. For my tool the die is used as the guage so the tube just fits under the edge of the inverted die. Tighten the tool to hold the tubing. Make sure, as you continue the steps, that the tubing does not slip in the tool. I had a tool from another manufacturer that would not hold the tubing tight enough. After struggling with it I found the Performance Tool and threw away the other brand. I put a little grease on the tip of the tubing and on the flaring tool anvil. Now invert the die and put the pin into the tubing end and attach the anvil. Compress the tubing until the die makes contact with the tool clamp.
      6. After removing the anvil and the die from the tubing this picture shows what the tubing looks like after the above step. Essentially it is a bubble flare.
      7. Complete the double flare by placing the tool anvil in the center of the tubing and turn the press until tight. After removing the anvil this is what the completed double flare looks like in the tool clamp.
      8. With practice the flare you make should look just as good as one on the end of brake tubing purchased at your local parts store.

      Mine

      Commercial

      7.64 @ 187 3400 lbs. on KORN
      TTSBF
      RTCTTFMF PTOSITW

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      • A Offline
        A Offline
        AntiBling
        wrote on last edited by
        #7

        Without seeing the connections, its going to be hard to help.

        First of all, the fuel line you are trying to tap into, are you splicing it and putting a "T" in or are you taking a existing end and want to make a line to go to the filter?

        legacy image

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        • S Offline
          S Offline
          seanjohn
          wrote on last edited by
          #8

          I've upgraded all my under bay lines to stainless steel, however the line from the inlet hard line to the fuel filter is still soft, I would like to convert this to a SS line. I'm not planning on "T'ing' the line at all, simply upgrade the line.

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          • S Offline
            S Offline
            seanjohn
            wrote on last edited by
            #9

            I read the link, and I think I need to just see this done in person or something, because I'm a moron and am not following this at all. I need to read up on the basics and try to understand what is even trying to be achieved with a flaring tool etc.

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            • PSiedTSiP Offline
              PSiedTSiP Offline
              PSiedTSi
              wrote on last edited by
              #10

              it might take some practice...

              At first I did it for fun, then I realized I made the investment and had to do it!

              92 Talon AWD 6/4bolt [EMAIL="[email protected]"][email protected][/EMAIL]
              95 240SX SE SR20DET [EMAIL="[email protected]"][email protected][/EMAIL]
              1993.5 Supra Hardtop...Sold
              Next project? 6cyl, 6spd?

              > spanish-rice;237125 wrote:
              > at first i thought the title said beer truck drivers needed... In which case i accidently put my two weeks in at work.

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              • S Offline
                S Offline
                seanjohn
                wrote on last edited by
                #11

                So what exactly does the flaring process do?

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                • XJHEADX Offline
                  XJHEADX Offline
                  XJHEAD
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #12

                  It spreads the end of the tube in the process it gets thinner. The back-up nut then tightens down on the fitting providing two things, a seal and a way so it cannot come off.

                  7.64 @ 187 3400 lbs. on KORN
                  TTSBF
                  RTCTTFMF PTOSITW

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                  • PSiedTSiP Offline
                    PSiedTSiP Offline
                    PSiedTSi
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #13

                    it gets a tighter seal basically...

                    At first I did it for fun, then I realized I made the investment and had to do it!

                    92 Talon AWD 6/4bolt [EMAIL="[email protected]"][email protected][/EMAIL]
                    95 240SX SE SR20DET [EMAIL="[email protected]"][email protected][/EMAIL]
                    1993.5 Supra Hardtop...Sold
                    Next project? 6cyl, 6spd?

                    > spanish-rice;237125 wrote:
                    > at first i thought the title said beer truck drivers needed... In which case i accidently put my two weeks in at work.

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                    • XJHEADX Offline
                      XJHEADX Offline
                      XJHEAD
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #14

                      A standard flaring tool will create a 45* flare, which is most of the the old stuff and also most plumbing and LP gas line fittings. Inverted flare are high pressure systems, brake lines hydraulics.. AN- newer stuff.... AN came from Army-Navy

                      7.64 @ 187 3400 lbs. on KORN
                      TTSBF
                      RTCTTFMF PTOSITW

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                      0
                      • S Offline
                        S Offline
                        seanjohn
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #15

                        Ok, so you flare the line, place the proper fitting on the end (dependant upon the degree of the tool used) and itilize the nut to securt the fitting. Correct?

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                        • XJHEADX Offline
                          XJHEADX Offline
                          XJHEAD
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #16

                          put nut on first unless you have a plain end on other side.. If you are flaring SS get the clamps really really tight, it is hard to flare and can slip out of clamps,,, you'll see..

                          7.64 @ 187 3400 lbs. on KORN
                          TTSBF
                          RTCTTFMF PTOSITW

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                          • S Offline
                            S Offline
                            seanjohn
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #17

                            Ok, where can I purchase/rent one of these flaring tools? Is there anyone that would possibly be willing to let me steel theres or rent it?

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