Car sputtering under heavy load
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Posted this up on H-T...thought someone on here could throw in their 2 cents.
Here is the situation: If I am cruising in 2nd or 3rd gear at low speeds (rpm's are low) and then go WOT it will pull for a bit, sputter and bog for about a 500rpm window (rougly 2000-2500rpm), and then pull just fine all the way to redline. It feels exactly the same as a 92 grand am I had, in that situation the ignition coils had a crack in them and the spark was jumping....anything similiar on my honda motor I could check right a way?
A little background: The ecu is a chipped obd0 pw0 ecu, motor is a built ls/vtec. When I did the swap I calibrated the TPS...no problem until about a week ago I start getting a code 7...so I calibrated it AGAIN. Now I have no code, but it wasn't until I recalibrated the TPS that I noticed this problem. (coincidence????)
:thumbup: for some help guys, I appreciate it!
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harwood39 wrote:
now sounds like the perfect time to switch over to an external MSD coil and maybe ignitioin module. and replace the plugs and wires well your at it. and if its not ignition than oyu have a great ignition anyways.Inspecting and testing parts is better than the "throw money at it until it's fixed" method.
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well being that u had a tps code and now it has a rpm flat spot u could very wel have a bad tps, tp sensors typically dont just die they will have bad spots, there is typicaly 2 ways of testing for a dead spot, watching voltage through a throttle swing or checking resistance through a throttle swing, both of which involve me to type way to much to explain
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Yeah, the ignition will "eventually" be upgraded along when the direct port kit is installed, but that could still be 6-8 months off...so for right now I'll just try to correct the problem. I'm going to troubleshoot on saturday, school is kicking my ass right now.
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Turbo5Oh wrote:
well being that u had a tps code and now it has a rpm flat spot u could very wel have a bad tps, tp sensors typically dont just die they will have bad spots, there is typicaly 2 ways of testing for a dead spot, watching voltage through a throttle swing or checking resistance through a throttle swing, both of which involve me to type way to much to explaindamn i cant believe i didnt think of that...
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bluejays wrote:
unless you own a dsmI know a lot of people like to make jokes about DSMs, but what I was referring to should be applied to any vehicle. It goes along with the American way of driving a car until it breaks, rather than getting regular maintenance performed. Car owners are lazy and would rather take the quick solution.
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Cap /rotor is an easy switch.
4 screws/8mm bolts will hold the cap onto the distributor. Take those out to remove the cap. Once you have the cap off look at the contacts inside the cap, chances are, especially if its an old distributor, that the contacts are either corroded and beat up, or there is little to no contact left.
The rotor inside the distributor is also held on with a single phillips screw. That one can sometimes be a whore to get off, and odds are that it is not working very well.
OBD 0 distributors always seem to have problems with the rotor especially.
First things first I would go ahead and and pick up a new cap/rotor, which you can get from any parts store in town. -
Alright, first thing I'm going to do on satuday is probably pick up a new cap and rotor...couldn't hurt right?
As far as checking the voltage on the tps I've got a voltmeter, and from what I understand on hondas it is .49 - 4.9, so I should just be able to have somone sit in the car and slowly open up the throttle while I watch the voltmeter, correct?
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