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  4. Wheel Hop issues?? Read this....

Wheel Hop issues?? Read this....

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved Track Talk
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  • tntmstrT Offline
    tntmstrT Offline
    tntmstr
    wrote on last edited by
    #1

    taken from k-series.com

    King Motorsports sent us this useful info.

    Why does wheel hop occur on a front wheel drive car?

    There are a number of variables, from a number of independent systems on the
    vehicle, that, under the right conditions cause wheel hop to occur.
    Primarily the drivetrain and suspension are the two systems that cause most
    of the problem. From the factory the RSX and Civic have the suspension and
    drivetrain connected to the vehicle by means of rubber bushings. Rubber is
    an elastic material - that is an important fact.

    When the vehicle is accelerated quickly a few things happen. Frist, the
    increase in torque from the engine make the engine want to twist in the
    opposite direction that power is being applied. The engine mounts are in
    there to resist this motion, and the result is the engine tilts back towards
    the fire wall. This is very evident when you have a car on the dyno. This
    movement puts a good deal of downward force on the subframe once the engine
    mount travel is used up.... again, the purpose of the engine mount is to
    take up some of this force and control the speed of this movement.

    At the same time, the force being applied through the drivetrain is
    transferred to the suspension via the driveshafts, hubs, wheel, tire, and
    then (hopefully) to the road surface. These forces act on the suspension
    components and weight is transferred from the front of the vehicle to the
    rear. In other words, the front suspension "unloads" and the rear suspension
    is "compressed"

    You now have two systems (drivetrain and suspension) interacting with each
    other - one trying to push the front of the car down and one trying to lift
    the front of the car. As the wheels spin they are constantly gaining and
    losing traction which in turn is constantly adding and removing the
    upward/downward force on the front of the car -> the forces from the
    suspension (weight transfer to the rear) and engine are both impacted by
    this gain and loss of force (traction) in the system.

    The result is something like a harmonic, an "oscillatory mechanical system"
    that develops. Forces are transferred causing traction to be gained and lost
    causing forces to be transferred.... and so on until it gets so bad that the
    front wheels literally bounce on and off of the road surface. Large
    irregularities in the road surface is an outside variable that can also
    worsen the situation, but that is a variable that is not necessarily in our
    control.

    There are a number of things you can do to improve the situation:

    1)Change the suspension to minimize the weight transfer front to rear and
    also to improve the up and down motion of the front wheels when wheel hop
    does start.

    2)Change the engine mount system to minimize the amount of travel, time of
    travel, and resultant forces that occur when the engine applies large torque
    loads.

    3)Improve the traction in the system.

    In my humble professional opinion, the biggest impacts will come from
    changes made numbers 1 & 3. Increase compression damping in the rear shocks
    and both compression/rebound damping in the front shocks. To better the
    traction a good set of sticky tires and a limited slip diff will go a long
    long way.

    As for the engine mounts, yes they do help, but at the expense of vehicle
    comfort. Also, by eliminating the movement in the engine mount set you risk
    damage to the drivetrain components - the forces have to go somewhere...

    To answer the question at hand... all other things being equal the ES motor
    inserts will reduce wheel hop more than the Mugen set because they pretty
    much completely eliminate the movement of the engine. But, remember the
    reduced wheel hop will come at the expense of increased drivetrain wear and
    potentially failure. Bottom line is that drag style launches are hard on a
    car. Your best bet is to increase traction and have the suspension set up to
    handle your specific application.

    You, or those in the peanut gallery, may be wondering why Mugen even made an
    engine mount set if they don't really a lot to reduce wheel hop... In
    spirited road/track driving and road racing controlling the engine movement
    is important for a different reason. Same technical stuff applies with
    weight transfer, however controlling engine movement and resultant forces is
    needed to keep the car settled during hard, fast, down and upshifts. When
    you are "on the edge" in the middle of a high speed turn and you go to grab
    the next gear (upshift) you want controlled movement from the engine because
    any slight change in weight can disrupt the balance of the car and send you
    spinning into the grass. The same goes for downshifts under hard braking.

    That's my $0.02 on the subject.

    Clayton
    King Motorsports

    Jason Christopherson
    Store Manager
    tintmasters motorsports
    Fargo, ND
    (701)239-8468
    www.tintmasters.net

    Jason Christopherson
    Store Manager
    Tintmasters
    Fargo, ND (701)239-TINT

    www.tintmasters.net

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