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  4. CEL after d16y8 motor swap... can't pull a code...

CEL after d16y8 motor swap... can't pull a code...

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  • B Offline
    B Offline
    btleier
    wrote on last edited by
    #1

    Hey guys quick question. Over the weekend we put a d16y8 into my 92 hatch. The motor starts and runs pretty well. However, I have a check engine light haunting me. The check engine light won't come on until the car has been running for like 5-10 seconds, and if I try to pull the code it just stays solid. One thing you should know if I'm running open header until I get my exhaust done on monday. Would that be why, or what else can I check?

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    • K Offline
      K Offline
      KA-T_240
      wrote on last edited by
      #2

      i wouldnt think not having an exhust wouldn't though a code. is everything connected right grounds ect. did you have to change anything on harnesses.

      could there be a bad sensor somewhere?

      PM me for:
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      • P Offline
        P Offline
        PSI2HI
        wrote on last edited by
        #3

        You got the 4 wire 02 sensor in there or just the 1 wire?

        "Just because you know it all doesn't mean you can do it all"

        "If you can't afford to do it right the first time can you afford to do it a second time?"

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        • B Offline
          B Offline
          btleier
          wrote on last edited by
          #4

          could there be bad sensor somewhere? yeah I suppose, but it's kinda vague....

          I think it's the 4 wire tufte, but I'll have to check.

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          • B Offline
            B Offline
            btleier
            wrote on last edited by
            #5

            it could very well be the o2 sensor, it was kinda messed up (cockeyed) from when it was in the bed of troy's truck when it got hit. that was one of the other things I was thinking about, but wanted to get other feedback.

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            • P Offline
              P Offline
              PSI2HI
              wrote on last edited by
              #6

              If the light turns off and you cant pull the code then really what is the problem though? If you cant pull the code there is none to be pulled esp if the light turns itself off.

              "Just because you know it all doesn't mean you can do it all"

              "If you can't afford to do it right the first time can you afford to do it a second time?"

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              • B Offline
                B Offline
                btleier
                wrote on last edited by
                #7

                the light is on the whole time the car is running.... after the 5-10 second delay. it just clears itself each time. if the motor is not running the cel is gone. you know how usually you can just pull the cel by having the key in the on position. I don't know if I'm making sense here.

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                • darkelvisD Offline
                  darkelvisD Offline
                  darkelvis
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #8

                  with the solid CEL does the car rev past 3K?

                  Hey everyone....Anonymously tell joel what you really think of him
                  http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=12913.0

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                  • B Offline
                    B Offline
                    btleier
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #9

                    I don't know... I haven't been driving it so far, I'll have to check tomorrow.

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                    • P Offline
                      P Offline
                      PSI2HI
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #10

                      btleier wrote:
                      the light is on the whole time the car is running.... after the 5-10 second delay. it just clears itself each time. if the motor is not running the cel is gone. you know how usually you can just pull the cel by having the key in the on position. I don't know if I'm making sense here.

                      You cant just turn the key and pull the code, you need jump the wires togethjer to put it in limp mode. I put a toggle switch for those 2 wires right above the ECU, just flip the switch and the light will stay on solid then flash the codes.

                      "Just because you know it all doesn't mean you can do it all"

                      "If you can't afford to do it right the first time can you afford to do it a second time?"

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                      • B Offline
                        B Offline
                        btleier
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #11

                        n/m guys I got it figured out.... there was just a loose connection on the toggle switch... repaired that connection, and it pulled just fine. CEL #41... Primary Oxygen Sensor heater...

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