F/S: 1991 Dodge Stealth ES
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Sup guys, its time to let the Stealth go. I've put too much time and effort into this car and its time to get out of it. Here's the lowdown on the car:
1991 Dodge Stealth ES
209,XXX miles about 40,000 on current motor
6G72 V6 222hp DOHC
P/W Windows, Locks, Mirrors
Good tires 70% tread left
Ice Cold A/C *retro fitted to R134a
New used Trans 40,000 miles on it
Compression is between 170-180 on all cyl... have Work order from Rydel for proof.
Ok now with the problems:
Passenger window does not go down.
Power steering rack leaks.
Bearing slipped in bottom end of motor.
Dent in passenger rear quarter panel.Other than those things the car is great. I have a total of $4000 invested in it so far. Alot more than I orgionally anticipated.
It would be cheaper for mechanicly inclined individual that was interesed in this car to just replace the motor with a new used one for under $1200. I've already priced it out but am not willing to do the work because I've already bought a replacement vehicle, hence the extreemly cheap price. Bluebook on this car is $3500. The car does drive but would not trust it to go long distances.
Asking Price is $1500 OBO*
Please reply or call Eric @ 701-594-3905
[email protected]Thanks!
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have you taken the pan off and looked to see if its in fact a bearing, if so how many?
metal in the heads?
why no pictures of the passenger side quarter panel dent?
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Don't know exactly what bearing or how many are bad. But have had this same problem before on different vehicles and its all the same sound. If its not a bearing then thats just less work that the buyer has to do. The topend work was done by Rydell in Grand Forks and heads were milled by MJ in Fargo.
I totally forgot about the pics of the dent. I'll post some tomorrow. I got an estimate from Craig Amiot at 5-Star Collision & Glass Center for about $600 for a complete repair of the quarter.
Its not leaking anything from the motor nor is it blowing any kind of smoke. No oil in the antifreeze. Its just knocking from the crank area which is indicative of a slipped bearing. Weather it be a crank or con-rod bearing I have no idea. Thats about as close as I can narrow it down without breaking it open.
As it sits right now I'm done with the car. Any more work will be the responsibility of the buyer.
I have also seen people dropping the VR4 into these cars with upgraded 2wd trannies to handle the extra hp....
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ill give you five hundred bucks today
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so it needs a new motor or no?
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It would probably be cheaper to just replace the motor, but you could also have the bottom end rebuilt. The topend was just rebuilt and has been compression tested at 170 average for all 6 cyl. If you plan on doing it yourself, rebuilding it would be cheaper. For time crunching.. just replacing the motor is the fastest.
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ericherm1 wrote:
It would probably be cheaper to just replace the motor, but you could also have the bottom end rebuilt. The topend was just rebuilt and has been compression tested at 170 average for all 6 cyl. If you plan on doing it yourself, rebuilding it would be cheaper. For time crunching.. just replacing the motor is the fastest.there is nothing "fast" about replacing the motor:o
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