Crx is still broken & I'm loosing my mind.
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97slowgsx wrote:
if the car is in gear with the clutch pushed in does the car ever move on its own...like the clutch is grabbing a little bit?
Yes sir. That is what makes it hard to shift, b/c the clutch not fully letting off.When I use to have that problem I would tighten the cable, then it would work fine.. for a while.
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Have you tryed contacting Kyle and asking him??? he might know what could be wrong. pm me if you want his number
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Bryce, I just spoke to The Man and he said: "the transmission guy is out in Crystal City Texas for about 2 weeks, but when he gets back, we can have him take a look at it and tell you what's wrong with it" so there's that if you don't get it figured out by then.
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Have you replaced the entire pedal assembly, including the cable?
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hmm i've heard of this happening some in DSM's.....i think there is something you can get for the output shaft that goes into the clutch to adjust the engagement point...maybe im wrong though
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it almost seams like the pressure plate has too much force created on the cable. which would make sense on why the pedal bushings wore out. have you tried other clutch kit brands? its almost like you need a stronger bushing for the pedal.
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Did you reuse the clutch fork/cable arm from the old transmission? Or have you replaced that as well?
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integra_gsr98 wrote:
Did you reuse the clutch fork/cable arm from the old transmission? Or have you replaced that as well?
New tranny, fork, arm all that good stuff was replaced. I just got a diffrent tranny.RyRy I also tried a diffrent clutch/PP, same problem. That and a Exedy s1 is not that heavy of a PP. (1900 pounds)
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I havn't looked too much into it, but are you able to go with a hydro trans? as in swap the cable for hydralic if it is possible for your block.
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You have swapped flywheels as well? Sounds like it could be a step height issue.
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integra_gsr98 wrote:
You have swapped flywheels as well? Sounds like it could be a step height issue.
I thought the same thing! So I took it to M&J, and they ordered a brand new 90 Integra flywheel to compaire it too. Everything is on the dot.
I don't know the much about switching to hydro, or how that would help.
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the most you would need to make sure about is whether or not a hydro tranny will bolt up to your block....if so, then you can get everything else to work. may make some pursuading but you'll need:
tranny
clutch master cylinder
clutch slave sylinder
and clutch pedal assembly for matching master if possiblethe hard lines can be hand bent to work. a hydro clutch will self compensate and wont need to have any adjustments done. I wonder if your cable is stretching out and causing all this tho?
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ticklemedaly wrote:
the most you would need to make sure about is whether or not a hydro tranny will bolt up to your block....if so, then you can get everything else to work. may make some pursuading but you'll need:tranny
clutch master cylinder
clutch slave sylinder
and clutch pedal assembly for matching master if possiblethe hard lines can be hand bent to work. a hydro clutch will self compensate and wont need to have any adjustments done. I wonder if your cable is stretching out and causing all this tho?
I am 99% sure it's not the cable, since I replaced it twice..About the hydro, that's a lot of cash. Ton of work. That would have to be a last resort.
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when you replaced the cable, did you compare lenghts of old vs. new? it doesn't make any sense as to why it would be doing this unless the cable is stretching or the pressure plate has too much force.
hydro would be a last resort, but you would still have a potential problem of this. I'm thinking either the cable is stretching easily or the bushings (due to the force of the pressure plate) on the pedal are too weak for the extra force. have you replaced the pedal assembly only once so far? if so, check the bushings to see how much play you have now compared to when you put it in. If you have a lot of play now, if any for that matter, I say that is the source of the problem due to the extra force of the pressure plate....for some odd reason tho
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ticklemedaly wrote:
when you replaced the cable, did you compare lenghts of old vs. new? it doesn't make any sense as to why it would be doing this unless the cable is stretching or the pressure plate has too much force.hydro would be a last resort, but you would still have a potential problem of this. I'm thinking either the cable is stretching easily or the bushings (due to the force of the pressure plate) on the pedal are too weak for the extra force. have you replaced the pedal assembly only once so far? if so, check the bushings to see how much play you have now compared to when you put it in. If you have a lot of play now, if any for that matter, I say that is the source of the problem due to the extra force of the pressure plate....for some odd reason tho
I compaired the lenghts, it did not strech. I have only replaced the assembly once, and if I have to do it again I'm going to murder puppies. That was not easy to find or replace.The problem is with the travel of the arm, not the cable. The cable is doing it's job. I tried a used 100% stock clutch/PP, and had the same problem with TOB travel.
Thanks for all the head scraching Ry & Gsr!:icon_thumleft:
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im narrowing it down to the arm assembly. take a look at the assembly as soon as you can and see if you have play in the bushings/pivot area. that wearing out will cause it to not pivot properly and create the needed adjustments in the cable.
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We have run stiff clutches in cable B series cars for 7+ years now and never had a problem. Just a random stupid question but is the trans completely flush with the block? Have you tried shimming the flywheel? What steps are you going through when you install the clutch and TOB?
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I've got an idea Bryce. Bring it to a shop and let them tackle it. I'm not sure if Ry is willing to do it. If not, see what Tufte says. It will save alot of heartache thats for sure. Sure it will cost a few bucks but in the end, it will be done and you wont end up killing any puppies over it.
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