Crx is still broken & I'm loosing my mind.
-
it almost seams like the pressure plate has too much force created on the cable. which would make sense on why the pedal bushings wore out. have you tried other clutch kit brands? its almost like you need a stronger bushing for the pedal.
-
Did you reuse the clutch fork/cable arm from the old transmission? Or have you replaced that as well?
-
integra_gsr98 wrote:
Did you reuse the clutch fork/cable arm from the old transmission? Or have you replaced that as well?
New tranny, fork, arm all that good stuff was replaced. I just got a diffrent tranny.RyRy I also tried a diffrent clutch/PP, same problem. That and a Exedy s1 is not that heavy of a PP. (1900 pounds)
-
I havn't looked too much into it, but are you able to go with a hydro trans? as in swap the cable for hydralic if it is possible for your block.
-
You have swapped flywheels as well? Sounds like it could be a step height issue.
-
integra_gsr98 wrote:
You have swapped flywheels as well? Sounds like it could be a step height issue.
I thought the same thing! So I took it to M&J, and they ordered a brand new 90 Integra flywheel to compaire it too. Everything is on the dot.
I don't know the much about switching to hydro, or how that would help.
-
the most you would need to make sure about is whether or not a hydro tranny will bolt up to your block....if so, then you can get everything else to work. may make some pursuading but you'll need:
tranny
clutch master cylinder
clutch slave sylinder
and clutch pedal assembly for matching master if possiblethe hard lines can be hand bent to work. a hydro clutch will self compensate and wont need to have any adjustments done. I wonder if your cable is stretching out and causing all this tho?
-
ticklemedaly wrote:
the most you would need to make sure about is whether or not a hydro tranny will bolt up to your block....if so, then you can get everything else to work. may make some pursuading but you'll need:tranny
clutch master cylinder
clutch slave sylinder
and clutch pedal assembly for matching master if possiblethe hard lines can be hand bent to work. a hydro clutch will self compensate and wont need to have any adjustments done. I wonder if your cable is stretching out and causing all this tho?
I am 99% sure it's not the cable, since I replaced it twice..About the hydro, that's a lot of cash. Ton of work. That would have to be a last resort.
-
when you replaced the cable, did you compare lenghts of old vs. new? it doesn't make any sense as to why it would be doing this unless the cable is stretching or the pressure plate has too much force.
hydro would be a last resort, but you would still have a potential problem of this. I'm thinking either the cable is stretching easily or the bushings (due to the force of the pressure plate) on the pedal are too weak for the extra force. have you replaced the pedal assembly only once so far? if so, check the bushings to see how much play you have now compared to when you put it in. If you have a lot of play now, if any for that matter, I say that is the source of the problem due to the extra force of the pressure plate....for some odd reason tho
-
ticklemedaly wrote:
when you replaced the cable, did you compare lenghts of old vs. new? it doesn't make any sense as to why it would be doing this unless the cable is stretching or the pressure plate has too much force.hydro would be a last resort, but you would still have a potential problem of this. I'm thinking either the cable is stretching easily or the bushings (due to the force of the pressure plate) on the pedal are too weak for the extra force. have you replaced the pedal assembly only once so far? if so, check the bushings to see how much play you have now compared to when you put it in. If you have a lot of play now, if any for that matter, I say that is the source of the problem due to the extra force of the pressure plate....for some odd reason tho
I compaired the lenghts, it did not strech. I have only replaced the assembly once, and if I have to do it again I'm going to murder puppies. That was not easy to find or replace.The problem is with the travel of the arm, not the cable. The cable is doing it's job. I tried a used 100% stock clutch/PP, and had the same problem with TOB travel.
Thanks for all the head scraching Ry & Gsr!:icon_thumleft:
-
im narrowing it down to the arm assembly. take a look at the assembly as soon as you can and see if you have play in the bushings/pivot area. that wearing out will cause it to not pivot properly and create the needed adjustments in the cable.
-
We have run stiff clutches in cable B series cars for 7+ years now and never had a problem. Just a random stupid question but is the trans completely flush with the block? Have you tried shimming the flywheel? What steps are you going through when you install the clutch and TOB?
-
I've got an idea Bryce. Bring it to a shop and let them tackle it. I'm not sure if Ry is willing to do it. If not, see what Tufte says. It will save alot of heartache thats for sure. Sure it will cost a few bucks but in the end, it will be done and you wont end up killing any puppies over it.
-
integra_gsr98 wrote:
We have run stiff clutches in cable B series cars for 7+ years now and never had a problem. Just a random stupid question but is the trans completely flush with the block? Have you tried shimming the flywheel? What steps are you going through when you install the clutch and TOB?
The tranny is flush with the block. M&J said there is no reason to shim the flywheel since it has only been re-done once with .007 taken off. I did get a .50 shim, however I don't really want to use it.What steps when I install my cluch? Brake cleaner all the parts, torque down everying thing in the correct pattern. Is there somthing special I should be doing? lol
-
How much free play is there in the lever arm before you feel the throwout bearing touch the pressure plate?
-
weshole wrote:
I've got an idea Bryce. Bring it to a shop and let them tackle it. I'm not sure if Ry is willing to do it. If not, see what Tufte says. It will save alot of heartache thats for sure. Sure it will cost a few bucks but in the end, it will be done and you wont end up killing any puppies over it.I've got him covered on the "professional" for beer thing...but 2 weeks is a long time.
-
Have you tried shimming the arm?
-
How would I go about doing that? I don't quite understand how that would help. I mean it was pulling it as far as possable, so far that my clutch pedal broke of. lol
Someone on H-T thinks that it is the Thurst bearing, and the crank moved over a bit. What is your take on that possablilty Nick?
Hello! It looks like you're interested in this conversation, but you don't have an account yet.
Getting fed up of having to scroll through the same posts each visit? When you register for an account, you'll always come back to exactly where you were before, and choose to be notified of new replies (either via email, or push notification). You'll also be able to save bookmarks and upvote posts to show your appreciation to other community members.
With your input, this post could be even better 💗
Register Login