Crx is still broken & I'm loosing my mind.
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the most you would need to make sure about is whether or not a hydro tranny will bolt up to your block....if so, then you can get everything else to work. may make some pursuading but you'll need:
tranny
clutch master cylinder
clutch slave sylinder
and clutch pedal assembly for matching master if possiblethe hard lines can be hand bent to work. a hydro clutch will self compensate and wont need to have any adjustments done. I wonder if your cable is stretching out and causing all this tho?
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ticklemedaly wrote:
the most you would need to make sure about is whether or not a hydro tranny will bolt up to your block....if so, then you can get everything else to work. may make some pursuading but you'll need:tranny
clutch master cylinder
clutch slave sylinder
and clutch pedal assembly for matching master if possiblethe hard lines can be hand bent to work. a hydro clutch will self compensate and wont need to have any adjustments done. I wonder if your cable is stretching out and causing all this tho?
I am 99% sure it's not the cable, since I replaced it twice..About the hydro, that's a lot of cash. Ton of work. That would have to be a last resort.
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when you replaced the cable, did you compare lenghts of old vs. new? it doesn't make any sense as to why it would be doing this unless the cable is stretching or the pressure plate has too much force.
hydro would be a last resort, but you would still have a potential problem of this. I'm thinking either the cable is stretching easily or the bushings (due to the force of the pressure plate) on the pedal are too weak for the extra force. have you replaced the pedal assembly only once so far? if so, check the bushings to see how much play you have now compared to when you put it in. If you have a lot of play now, if any for that matter, I say that is the source of the problem due to the extra force of the pressure plate....for some odd reason tho
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ticklemedaly wrote:
when you replaced the cable, did you compare lenghts of old vs. new? it doesn't make any sense as to why it would be doing this unless the cable is stretching or the pressure plate has too much force.hydro would be a last resort, but you would still have a potential problem of this. I'm thinking either the cable is stretching easily or the bushings (due to the force of the pressure plate) on the pedal are too weak for the extra force. have you replaced the pedal assembly only once so far? if so, check the bushings to see how much play you have now compared to when you put it in. If you have a lot of play now, if any for that matter, I say that is the source of the problem due to the extra force of the pressure plate....for some odd reason tho
I compaired the lenghts, it did not strech. I have only replaced the assembly once, and if I have to do it again I'm going to murder puppies. That was not easy to find or replace.The problem is with the travel of the arm, not the cable. The cable is doing it's job. I tried a used 100% stock clutch/PP, and had the same problem with TOB travel.
Thanks for all the head scraching Ry & Gsr!:icon_thumleft:
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im narrowing it down to the arm assembly. take a look at the assembly as soon as you can and see if you have play in the bushings/pivot area. that wearing out will cause it to not pivot properly and create the needed adjustments in the cable.
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We have run stiff clutches in cable B series cars for 7+ years now and never had a problem. Just a random stupid question but is the trans completely flush with the block? Have you tried shimming the flywheel? What steps are you going through when you install the clutch and TOB?
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I've got an idea Bryce. Bring it to a shop and let them tackle it. I'm not sure if Ry is willing to do it. If not, see what Tufte says. It will save alot of heartache thats for sure. Sure it will cost a few bucks but in the end, it will be done and you wont end up killing any puppies over it.
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integra_gsr98 wrote:
We have run stiff clutches in cable B series cars for 7+ years now and never had a problem. Just a random stupid question but is the trans completely flush with the block? Have you tried shimming the flywheel? What steps are you going through when you install the clutch and TOB?
The tranny is flush with the block. M&J said there is no reason to shim the flywheel since it has only been re-done once with .007 taken off. I did get a .50 shim, however I don't really want to use it.What steps when I install my cluch? Brake cleaner all the parts, torque down everying thing in the correct pattern. Is there somthing special I should be doing? lol
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How much free play is there in the lever arm before you feel the throwout bearing touch the pressure plate?
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weshole wrote:
I've got an idea Bryce. Bring it to a shop and let them tackle it. I'm not sure if Ry is willing to do it. If not, see what Tufte says. It will save alot of heartache thats for sure. Sure it will cost a few bucks but in the end, it will be done and you wont end up killing any puppies over it.I've got him covered on the "professional" for beer thing...but 2 weeks is a long time.
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Have you tried shimming the arm?
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How would I go about doing that? I don't quite understand how that would help. I mean it was pulling it as far as possable, so far that my clutch pedal broke of. lol
Someone on H-T thinks that it is the Thurst bearing, and the crank moved over a bit. What is your take on that possablilty Nick?
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You can check the thrust bearing by putting a pry bar behind the crank pully and prying out. If that doesn't work try it behind the flywheel going the other way and see if it moves.
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what you are checking is crankshaft end play and there should be literally none (actually there is to be some but without a dial indicator to messure to the exact .0001", you wont know the right amount. What he is expecting you to see is any play, which would require new main bearings, or a rebuild.
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