Id plug it but TM does a really good job

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sorry for bringing it back after a month. if you still want that fixed, use a heat gun or heatlamp it will help with the cracking of the paint by softening the clearcoat and the plastic and you should be able to get it pretty close to normal on your own

Why would you waste money on a K03 btw?

Line X Ultra/Xtra - look at that thread I posted in chat. I need to buck up and do my Tahoe one of these years... EDIT: what timing. I went in and talked to the dealer in West Fargo and from what I gather Ultra/Xtra are terms both used. I see both terms are used in that thread now and I know I asked for one and they had no knowledge of it and used the other term (I don't recall which is which) but it looked like it was the same stuff. Lifetime guarantee against fading/chipping/tearing/etc.

hell yea good to hear

But your car would love you forever.

Not for the 240...... LOLZ. From what I have heard, do not buy anything more then the 4 point autopower,

lol sorry they are posting as links because it includes the "@" symbol...i honestly don't think there are any videos of me at the track, only pictures....there is, however, a video of me and boomer floating(Harwood had one) around doing donuts at Gooseberry during a FS picnic...whoops lawlz

Anybody have access to them this w/end?? disregard tranny shot parts on order

ask me how come fire extinguishers are a good thing to have on the vehicle more than once....:icon_scratch: they are definately a good addition

Thanks a lot, if I end up with the car and the Haltech I may get back to you, 400 miles is a lot less than hauling it to Cali.

yeah thats exactly what i am looking for blackej8, kat240 the gauges are electrical but thats for the input really helps

Heres more info on the car. My old motor and heads are eactly the same as the new ones I got. The motor I baught was same year 79 Olds 403 with block# 557265 4B and Heads 4A 554717. My old motor in the car that blew had the exact same casting numbers on the heads and block, so leads me to believe they are the exact same motor, so nothing should be changed. I used the heads from my old motor as they were just rebuilt. Just a stock rebuild, as they had bad guides and seals. My carb is a reman unit with 43100004 and 02273009 on the sticker on it. Cam is stock grind for a 79 trans am and showed little to no wear when I put the motor together. Other than that I have a MSD HEI distributor on it, Edlebrock Performenr Intake, Taylor 8mm Race wires, Stock AC plugs, dynomax coated long tube headers, dual 2.5" exhaust with flowmasters. I set the timing at 18 degrees, it runs good, but if I advance it more the motor with smooth out even more. I have played with turning the distributor a bunch, runs rough at 0 degrees, runs diecent at 18 degrees and purrs at about 28 degrees. Thats with the advance unhooked also. One other thing, which vacuum port should the vacuum advance be connected to on the carb? i forgot, and which one should the vacuum for the tranny be connected to on the carb? I have all unnecessary stuff removed, no emissions, no egr. I wanted the motor to look as clean as possible

just welded eh? pm me the info and what not and i may have someone who can do it for you. the same guy who has welded on all the new panels on my dads 72 chevelle and also his 67 camaro convertible. wouldn't be to hard for him... PM me info and i'll ask him.

MisterCMK;229259 wrote: Did you use 110 IIRC or the 100 Unleaded? I used the 102 unleaded, i wonder if they had leaded in there or something.

i do not currently own a chip burner anymore

Got the fronts off today...it took 8mm x 1.25 pitch as Wes and I both suspected at first. I got 8mmx1, 7mmx1, and neither worked, tried the 8mmx1.25 again with penetrating oil and it went and BAM, rotor popped off. Thanks for the help guys! Rears are tomorrow.

ask hando, or psi2hi, they got some info..

DWeigs;225494 wrote: Lol no not at all... The other guy, it puffs a lot of smoke.... whew, thats good. i didnt think my car burnt oil