well thanks anyways guys...i appreciate the feedback...but i think im just going to stick with the stock mani and my AEM short ram for now...Well i got another question but thata for a new thread... Thanks

PSiedTSi;225046 wrote: I'll agree with that. The sport compact market is ruined. If you haven't been around for a long time, or don't have a huge bankroll, it's hard to get accounts that give you pricing that even allows you to try to compete. To add to this... You also usually have to be a stocking dealer and order $XXXX.XX everytime you order to get any REAL price break in order to make any money at all. I see the price here-buy there ordeal alot. I do however, take some enjoyment when that person(s) wants you to warranty their internet sourced/purchased part and I get to politely inform them that they need to take it up with the purchase place.

thanks man. you did a good job.

You could run basically as much compression as a conservative race gas. I have heard of guys planning on doing 13:1 but never seen it done. It is a big advantage for all motor if you build it with higher compression with the intentions of running E85.

inspector01;224007 wrote: Someone changed there mind after seeing what boost can do, if only someone had suggested that before...... ya i know... but i still want an all-motor car too...

Dave have him call Tom over at Aamco...just tell him that I sent you there and he will take care of him

lol people took it seriously.. funny funny. but really tho, that is the sickest manifold ive ever seen.

Make an offer!

i do like to take care of my engine, but i'm also interested in efficiency. i read a little about the bypass kit and analysis... perhaps four years ago. i can't remember why i didn't do anything with the information. i'll take a gander and i'm sure it will all come back to me

Slave cylinder is dying. Replace it and bleed the clutch.

lol... beat me too it

Ok, when I bought this 300, the guy said that once in awhile the clutch pedal with stick near the floor, but not completely to the floor, just enough room to engage/disengage the clutch. It did it a couple times when I first bought it, then after I awhile it went away, well now it's back again. When I shift into gears, the pedal with stick, then I put my foot behind the pedal and pull it up manually. Other than that, the car shifts fine, drives fine, there's no grinding, or any metal smells for all that matter. Z31 Guys, need ur help on this one!:icon_salut: Do I need a new clutch? Anything? I mean, I was thinking about replacing the clutch next spring with this: http://jdmultimate.com/act-advanced-clutch-technology/act-clutch-kit-heavy-duty-hd/nx2hdg6/i-46692.aspx

dlEclipse;221909 wrote: treimche. You mentioned a trick for the 2nd O2 sensor. If it isn't installed what can I do to stop the P0420 code? I'm not sure what emissions sensors have been removed and what just wasn't hooked up... If I purchase DSMLink or the AEM do I still need to worry about the codes? DSMLink or AEM lets you run w/out a rear O2 sensor if you want. The trick I know is if you have the rear O2 hooked up, but don't have a cat in the car. If you plan on getting an O2 sensor to put in I can tell you how to do it.

MazdaAspec;221544 wrote: Probably vavle ticking. I have the problem to but I checked the valve lash and have none. It does go away after 4K rpm like yours so it may be the same thing. uh.... so you were checking/setting valve lash on hydraulic lifters.... sweet

www.ssautochrome.com ( 54801) Positive Feedback (last 12 months): 99.4% 99.4 % isn't that bad... lol I had some SSautochrome stuff that broke, but it was super cheap haha

Did you get it running? :icon_scratch:

Hard to decide, so many options

Anybody have a GM car where the alt. has the cooling duct and shroud on it. I think the Lumina's and a few others had them. Was wondering if you could take a couple picts for me...

Thanks for the info, ive went through 18 pages of that link posted, lost of good stuff. Ive been on 318ti.org as well but it is down presently for some reason. I really like the car and dont plan on any engine mods for some time. The entire car from the dash forward is pure E36, the only things needed for the swap are the engine/trans, harness and ECU. Change the mounts to I-6 and it literally all drops right together. I do like the characteristics of the E30 rear suspension much better as well, it is a very gentle and controllable oversteer. The main reason for swapping to an M50 would be for the manual trans, and being the car is paid for, but first and formost because of the lightweight, and low option design of the 318ti. A 300hp I-6 in this car would be a very good ride, and would allow alot of time to work on suspension setup and alot of bodywork. I dont really care for the driving experience of the heavier E36 coupes and sedans very much either, so i wouldnt say it would be more satisfying, but thanks for your comments. BTW, parts for these things are dirt cheap, like small block kinda cheap, i am very suprised.

Forgot to post earlier... Replaced the balljoint and shes good to go.. Section of the threads was stripped so the control arm had up and down play... 20 dollar ball joint and a hammer got her in and out in about an hour