Fired the 6.0L tonight!
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Still doesn't mean there wasn't damage to the bearings. I don't know why you'd risk it on a motor you plan on making big power with. It's not a D series honda.
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Like he said, if it only spun 4 or 5 revolutions and had a small amount of lube on it then it's going to be close to a hard startup. Just like a car that's been stored over winter and starts up for the first time will experience.
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also i would have primed it in the first place, but guess what, LS motors have a crank driven oil pump and the only way to prime them is?, you guessed it, turning the damn thing over. So i guess all the shops out there that build motors are fuckin morons for turning the engine over for ten seconds while the oil system pressurises, right? YEP, i think those 4 or 5 combustion events took the babbitt right off the bearings and i have to rebuild it now. Oh but i forgot, the whole point of this board is to bash anything that isnt yours.
Gary -
slowvo wrote:
How do you do this?Some motors have the distributor drive a shaft that connects to the oil pump.
You mark dist setting and rotor setting then you pull it out and either use a speed wrench(hard) or get a drill. Fords spin in reverse not too sure on chebby rotation clockwise I think...Oh something I also saw
From: Neon John [email protected]
Subject: Re: Oil Priming an LT1?
Date: Tue, 10 Aug 1999 18:03:00 EDT
Newsgroups: rec.autos.rod-n-custom[email protected] wrote:
Yeap, what I was thinking to do was to squirt some oil into the piston
chambers of all eight and disconnect the fuel pump relay (pull the
fuse) and crank it for a while. But this, I think, could still be to
hard on an engine that has been sleeping for so long. I was looking
for other solutions. Any of you guys ever heard of preassure priming?
I don't know how it works, but I believe it involves compressed air.
And of course there is the external electric pump, but last time I
checked it was in the upper $400. (not an option).I have a rig I use on all new engine starts. It consists of a
stainless steel 5 gal Coke syrup can equipped with a schrader air
valve, a hose, a ball valve and a check valve. The tank is filled
with 2 gallons of oil, pressurized to 100 psi and the end of the
hose with the check valve and ball valve is screwed into the oil
sender port. Or in the unusual event the sender isn't easily
accessible, I use a modified freon side tapper to pierce the side of
an oil filter and tap in there.In use, the can is sat on refrigerant scales (just because I have
'em), the ball valve turned on and when the scales indicate about a
gallon of oil has flowed in the engine and oil is visible through
the oil filler hole, the engine is fired. The oil is allowed to
continue to flow until the scales indicate the proper quantity of
oil is in the engine. The 100 psi air pressure in the can will
override the oil pump and lift its relief valve at fast idle. The
check valve prevents any oil from being pumped back to the tank in
the event the air pressure is too low. When the correct amount of
oil is in the engine, turn the ball valve and continue with the cam
break-in procedure.The advantage of this procedure is a) it's cheap - the tank can be
had at flea markets or even from Coke, b) it fills the filter, the
galleys and primes the pump, c) one can verify proper oil flow
BEFORE firing the engine for the first time, and d) you don't have
to fool with any sort of priming tool and the attendant risk of
damage to the engine or of dropping something down the hole.If you don't have scales, you can simply put the correct amount of
oil in the tank and flow it in until you see bubbles in the line
indicating the tank is getting empty. I use the fabric reinforced
plastic hose that the coke company uses. If that is not available,
one can use the clear fabric reinforced PVC hose available at Lowes,
Home Depot and the like. -
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XJHEAD wrote:
You can crank it over too. Short spurts. Just make sure you aren't dumping fuel into the engine. Most engines will not dump fuel at WOT when cranking.I just unhook the injectors and then crank away with the plugs out. Taking the plugs out makes it so there is no force put on the bearings while you crank it.
DaveH
'94 Supra- 7.77 @ 176mph -
the best way to do the ls motor is to pack the pump when you assemble the engine (with assy lube, pet jelly, whatever). Then crank it with the plugs out until you see pressure, and tadda! yer done. But if you crank it with no oil in it, the pump can/ will lose it's prime pretty easy. I've done quite a few of these, and this seems to work the best. No, you didn't hurt anything when you did that obviously, but it didn't help. Good luck... I got a 6.0L (402) going in a C5 right now also, but equipped with a pair of 67s :icon_thumright:
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