tech question
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shift knob, first and foremost.
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DelSlow;264795 wrote:
Why's this?please tell me this is a joke?
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I don't know you or your car so i may come off sounding like more of a dumbass than usual, but if you haven't done road course work before, with that much go-fast stuff you'll want very good brake pads, fresh excellent brake fluid, and a harness. I've been happy with porterfield R4 full-race compounds and ATE Superblue/Type200 fluid. I don't know what race-compound pads are availabe in your caliper but im sure somebody does.
On most street cars the #1 thing you want is adjustable front camber when doing road-course work. Mostly this will help save your expensive tires on a big heavy car. Bring a white marker to the track with you and use it to get an idea of how much tire rollover you're getting at all 4 corners. Also a very accurate tire pressure gauge, a notebook, and keep careful records of what pressure seemed to feel good and manage tire-rollover and tire wear appropriately.
If you are looking to spend money on toys, the #1 thing you'll do to go faster around the track is an in-car data logger. You want to know position via GPS, RPM, TPS, g-circle, and speed. You can get into one of these for under $1k, which I am going to guess is small change compared to the rest of the work on that car.
If you're an accomplished road racer this is all dumb stuff you already know, and I apologize for wasting your time. If not, the biggest gains are made by making the driver faster, not the car.
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no_slow_clap;264794 wrote:
an aftermarket intake mani wont help your midrange..i dont think.
plus i hate buschur, so i wouldnt buy it.IMO, you should get some 280's. What fuel are you tuning on? race gas, pump, e85?
Ive done my research on the manifolds and nothin beats the stock one ported up to 8,000rpms The car with make plenty of power.. Id say around a 10 sec 1/4 pass.
I thought about 280s but would need springs and retainers also for this summer i'll stay with 264's. More than likly going to go with a double pump and E85 1000cc-1200cc injectors (NOT PTE) I also have Meth Injection..
I do have harness belts and the stock seat is fine for racing ..
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Maybe I can talk tufte in to making a brake cooling duct for my car also...
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you'll probably want to upgrade brakes then also, the stock brembo's will get weak fast.
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Kevin we have stop-tech stage 2 brakes in stock at the shop for a steal if you want to do better brakes. stop in and talk to shane or jason on them.
here is info on it
http://www.stoptech.com/products/stage1_2_upgrades.shtml -
DelSlow;264795 wrote:
Why's this?My explination is terrible, because im basing of my own expierence.
anyone remember my consistant 14 sec passes in my civic (yes, slow)
-bald...well shredded street tires, an exploded driver side motor mount, blown struts all around, and full interior.with the skunk2 intake mani on, it droped to consistant 15 sec passes. With a higher trap speed, and slower 1/8 mile. this was with street radials, new omnipower coilovers, new motor mounts with inserts from kyle, and a few other things.
Thats my explination. I dont like them, they are sweet noise makers....thats about it.
Kevin, you dont need upgraded valve train unless you plan to you RPM's over the stock rev limiter. There are plenty of people that have proved that.
Not to mention, the kelford 272, and the gsc s2 out perform most 280 cams besides custom grinds.
Also, i dont think you will need a double pumper with your setup.
http://forums.evolutionm.net/drag-racing/383601-batmobile-goes-10-67-23psi.html
this is a friend of mine. Single walbro 255, although on a 2.3. 1000cc injectors, on a race head, with a pump gas tune (the tune is arguable).
but if you need a double pumper let me know, i can get you one for CHEEAAP.
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Kevin: I agree with thrash.
You are the weak spot in this setup. No insult intended, I will also be in this position this summer with a lot less power though lol.
You have built a car that surpasses you skills as a driver . Better parts and setups might make you car perform better, shave seconds, keep you under control, but they will only be making up for what you lack.
Go to BIR, sign up for whatever classes you think will help you. Talk to Shane about "race" driving. He's probably the best driver you can easily approach in town. I would imagine he will have some good ideas for you.
Thrashes ideas are good, but i would think you might want to put some research time into why and how to apply his methods. Except for seat time. Thats easy: you see, you put your butt. . . . . . . into the drivers seat.
PS: I know a guy who would always be up to caravan all summer long/split hotels or whatever for brainerd trips. I'll get him in touch with you if you'd like.
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PSiedTSi;264861 wrote:
^He needs the double pump for the additional fuel of E85!I dont know much about e85.
Thats why i said on a race head, pump, and a 2.3.
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no_slow_clap;264848 wrote:
My explination is terrible, because im basing of my own expierence.anyone remember my consistant 14 sec passes in my civic (yes, slow)
-bald...well shredded street tires, an exploded driver side motor mount, blown struts all around, and full interior.with the skunk2 intake mani on, it droped to consistant 15 sec passes. With a higher trap speed, and slower 1/8 mile. this was with street radials, new omnipower coilovers, new motor mounts with inserts from kyle, and a few other things.
Thats my explination. I dont like them, they are sweet noise makers....thats about it.
boost vs na is completely different in the optimal intake design...... as i am guessing that civic was just motor
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no_slow_clap;264890 wrote:
I dont know much about e85.Thats why i said on a race head, pump, and a 2.3.
Yeah, it's usually something roughly around 30% more fuel needed for the same power with E85.
BTW, I wasn't trying to be a dick in my previous post lol
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