tech question
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a 2.3L stroker, some nuts, and a good harness.
ok now seriously lol, look at the whiteline bumpsteer correction kit, and the front roll center kit. evo's push, and those help a lot. along with what faber said, a GOOD alignment.
solid diff mount bushing wouldnt be a bad idea either, and some better front and rear sway bars if you dont already have them.
Are you going to tune the car on this year?
and what cams are you going to use?
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no_slow_clap;264772 wrote:
a 2.3L stroker, some nuts, and a good harness.ok now seriously lol, look at the whiteline bumpsteer correction kit, and the front roll center kit. evo's push, and those help a lot. along with what faber said, a GOOD alignment.
solid diff mount bushing wouldnt be a bad idea either, and some better front and rear sway bars if you dont already have them.
Are you going to tune the car on this year?
and what cams are you going to use?
I have been looking at the bumpsteer kit and other stuff like that.. I already have aftermarket adjustable sway bars. Yes The car will get tuned in a few weeks at DB more than likly. I run HKS 264's for cams. The turbo spools just fine and dont think Going to a smaller turbo would help unless I was doing autocross.
I was thinking about getting a aftermarket intake manifold but the buscher ported one makes more power than most! so for $140.00 Its a good deal.
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i couldnt begin to give you advice on what parts to consider, but i want to know when and where so i can watch you beat the shit out of that thing
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an aftermarket intake mani wont help your midrange..i dont think.
plus i hate buschur, so i wouldnt buy it.IMO, you should get some 280's. What fuel are you tuning on? race gas, pump, e85?
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shift knob, first and foremost.
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DelSlow;264795 wrote:
Why's this?please tell me this is a joke?
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I don't know you or your car so i may come off sounding like more of a dumbass than usual, but if you haven't done road course work before, with that much go-fast stuff you'll want very good brake pads, fresh excellent brake fluid, and a harness. I've been happy with porterfield R4 full-race compounds and ATE Superblue/Type200 fluid. I don't know what race-compound pads are availabe in your caliper but im sure somebody does.
On most street cars the #1 thing you want is adjustable front camber when doing road-course work. Mostly this will help save your expensive tires on a big heavy car. Bring a white marker to the track with you and use it to get an idea of how much tire rollover you're getting at all 4 corners. Also a very accurate tire pressure gauge, a notebook, and keep careful records of what pressure seemed to feel good and manage tire-rollover and tire wear appropriately.
If you are looking to spend money on toys, the #1 thing you'll do to go faster around the track is an in-car data logger. You want to know position via GPS, RPM, TPS, g-circle, and speed. You can get into one of these for under $1k, which I am going to guess is small change compared to the rest of the work on that car.
If you're an accomplished road racer this is all dumb stuff you already know, and I apologize for wasting your time. If not, the biggest gains are made by making the driver faster, not the car.
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no_slow_clap;264794 wrote:
an aftermarket intake mani wont help your midrange..i dont think.
plus i hate buschur, so i wouldnt buy it.IMO, you should get some 280's. What fuel are you tuning on? race gas, pump, e85?
Ive done my research on the manifolds and nothin beats the stock one ported up to 8,000rpms The car with make plenty of power.. Id say around a 10 sec 1/4 pass.
I thought about 280s but would need springs and retainers also for this summer i'll stay with 264's. More than likly going to go with a double pump and E85 1000cc-1200cc injectors (NOT PTE) I also have Meth Injection..
I do have harness belts and the stock seat is fine for racing ..
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Maybe I can talk tufte in to making a brake cooling duct for my car also...
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you'll probably want to upgrade brakes then also, the stock brembo's will get weak fast.
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Kevin we have stop-tech stage 2 brakes in stock at the shop for a steal if you want to do better brakes. stop in and talk to shane or jason on them.
here is info on it
http://www.stoptech.com/products/stage1_2_upgrades.shtml -
DelSlow;264795 wrote:
Why's this?My explination is terrible, because im basing of my own expierence.
anyone remember my consistant 14 sec passes in my civic (yes, slow)
-bald...well shredded street tires, an exploded driver side motor mount, blown struts all around, and full interior.with the skunk2 intake mani on, it droped to consistant 15 sec passes. With a higher trap speed, and slower 1/8 mile. this was with street radials, new omnipower coilovers, new motor mounts with inserts from kyle, and a few other things.
Thats my explination. I dont like them, they are sweet noise makers....thats about it.
Kevin, you dont need upgraded valve train unless you plan to you RPM's over the stock rev limiter. There are plenty of people that have proved that.
Not to mention, the kelford 272, and the gsc s2 out perform most 280 cams besides custom grinds.
Also, i dont think you will need a double pumper with your setup.
http://forums.evolutionm.net/drag-racing/383601-batmobile-goes-10-67-23psi.html
this is a friend of mine. Single walbro 255, although on a 2.3. 1000cc injectors, on a race head, with a pump gas tune (the tune is arguable).
but if you need a double pumper let me know, i can get you one for CHEEAAP.
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