ok give me a few days to find the suppies then maybe next weekend we can do it? lmk

Alright for the past couple days my shifter has seemed really loose, "floaty" in a sense. It also picks up a lot more vibration than normal, and seems the quiver when I go over a bump. Is there a way to tighten it at all? Perhaps a bolt is working its way loose somewhere? Anyone had this problem before? TIA, Paul

reduced rotating mass has to be a good thing. even it it is only 10 lbs. right? right! Monty

check ur sensor for the fan too. I'm having the same problem with my 96 Corsica....alot with alot of other problems.

Florida, Beer, Gas, LUCKY!

i got my 240 running about 2 weeks about and we noticed that there was oil leak coming out of head cylinder number 1 right side and there is a plugged oil galley there. when we got the head off we found that the oil was leaking all the way around to the left side of the motor. the head was torqued properly and all of that according to the instructions i got. (cometic HG, and arp studs with arp molly lube). quality engine did the machine work and they do lots off stuff with cometics they put them in all of the dirt track motors they do. we pressurized the oil system with the head off and there was no oil leaking anywhere. i ordered a new cometic that doesnt have a hole where the galley plug is and checked that the plug was in tight. there is no oil on the left side of the motor. could it be the that head needs to be resurfaced? and that would cause it. our thinking is that the only way the oil got all the way around the motor was a bad HG orthe HG not sealing any help would be awsome

I need a alternator rebuilt for my car, I was wondering if anyone knows of any good local places to take it to?

your a fucking P.I.M.P with fab

treimche wrote: Agreed. I did this once and it all bolted in, and plugged in, and worked perfectly. Good luck searching on Honda Tech for that one. I posted about that same thing and all I got were replies saying "search search blah blah blah". That's why i posted on here, not on HT. Thanks guys... Will be picking a motor up with weekend more than likely.

well im sure that would be the case then....its not like that intake manifold really helps so just swap the stock one back on if you gots one.

Does anyone konw about the difference between the bumpers and frame of a 88-91 civic hatch and a 88-91 crx. I was told that the bumpers aren't the same height.

Oh it is totally possible for gas to get into the oil on any car, but it has to be running extremely rich to where it can not burn off all of the gas, and at that point it would be smoking black, or it would have to be getting flooded out by cranking the car trying to start it for long periods at a time. Now neither sounds to be the case since the car is smoking white.

go back and talk to the people who did the clutch and machining. btw: what the redline on that truck?

Ok. I just had the clutch replaced on my truck, and they had to turn the flywheel, and now i have a vibration about 2500 rpm and above. This sucks because that is the cruising rpm on the interstate for my truck. Could this be caused by the flywheel being out of ballance due to the machining? or just things werent perfectly lined up when it was put together? I am bringin it back to the shop on monday to have them fix it, but i would like to know what would cause this.

treimche wrote: I don't think he should waste his time using used pistons in a motor that's going to be all rebuilt anyways. If the cylinder walls are scored and a piston was slapping around, it's almost guaranteed that the piston is no good also. I haven't seen them in person, but that's my guess. He's overaggerating the situation and mainly doesn't know exactly whats all isgoing on. The pistons aren't slapping around, my guess is it just just bored w/ extra piston to wall clearance. The cyl walls are perfectly fine except cyl one has a score in it from when the TB broke and the screw got in there, all in all its really not going to affect much. Personally i'd hone it and reassemble it w/ the rods and a set of rings. Motor only has maybe if even 5k on it.

As best as I can figure, ABOUT $185.00 each. Which I know is way out of whack. But they arent in stock at my supplier so there would be shipping as well. These are runflats and I can't get the regular ones.

come on nate dont worrie you will be payin me the 20 in no time!

you could just get longer exhaust hangers. there like $5 each at national muffler. just replace your rubber hangers with these and problem solved. you will have less ground clearance.

This is just a start. Doing a production run for 2 vendors next week so i'll have all sorts of stuff to post up.

n/m guys I got it figured out.... there was just a loose connection on the toggle switch... repaired that connection, and it pulled just fine. CEL #41... Primary Oxygen Sensor heater...