slowvo wrote: you really cant use an impact due to the axle being right on top of it... is the BJ bad? when they get loose, they tend to do this alot more. also if the threads have any shit on them, or have a slight knick in there, its gonna be a bitch. moral- if the BJ nut is a place where you cant get an impact on it, take it apart where the strut connects to the spindle. dont worry about the alignment, just bolt it back close to where it was Take 10 minutes and pull the axles out. Also, a VERY good idea is to replace the nut, I know the one you have might LOOK fine, but trust me it makes a world of difference.

Id go with a type-s, almost got an SI, but these are much more rare, look hard tho and find a good one.

adog wrote: Thanks! I'd heard the Mosers weren't too great anymore. I've been hearing the same. Missing parts, and about 75% of with gear whine. Strange's are more expensive, but they go down to the same price if you watch for group purchases which they have every month or two.

I was thinking why don't you try KT irrigation. I never thought of them earlier but they use alot of alum. piping, not sure if that small... It may not be real pretty either..

well look at the driver!! jk joel

Ok, where can I purchase/rent one of these flaring tools? Is there anyone that would possibly be willing to let me steel theres or rent it?

you could have a 10 sec. go cart and then as you stop after the run dump it, make a roll cage!

ya ya motor comes maybe this summer in august tell then fix lots of stuff, for a $400 car it need some love and lots of cleaning. like removing the bubbled tint, witch normally isnt hard but its 2 damn layers on top of eac other it sucks, spent 3 hours and got 3/4 of 1 roll down done. Any advice on removing it easier, used razor blade, goo be gone, decal remover, and heat gun none by them selves can touch the adhesive.

Off the top of my head, all the lights, gauges, and pretty much you are best just rewiring the whole car with a aftermakret wiring harness kit. Ive heard good things about this newer company, ezwiring. They make a cheap 21 circuit wiring harness. $165. They are who I plan on going with on my '49. www.ezwiring.com

^chiltens (sp) for my car was a waste of time and money too

Our company car is a Taurus and the cruise works sometimes as well. I get it to work everytime if I hit the horn hard...then it works fine! I assume a ground in the streering wheel is messed up. Try that?

agreed.... there will be zero aftermarket backing, and you're starting with a 1986 vehicle in the first place. gonna need alot of tlc, and restoration, hold out for something better.

not bad, not bad at all

Yea I prolly won't go with a new cam until I get some bolt ons. I know I will need a new fuel pump and lines to go with the S/C. Would an MAF come with this system? And what years did the T-Bird have the s/c? Also would I want to pick up a wideband sensor and anything else for tuning?

thanks guys!

Well not so sure about those resistance numbers, I find it odd that the one is half the resistance of the highest one. I think when Ive always checked mine they never varied more than .5 ohms. Also check the boot of the spark plug wires (that go into the valve cover) and make sure there are no pinholes that you can see. If you are running your coilpack in the stock location, pickup a set of accel 8mm wires from www.jcwhitney.com they are only like $35 there and you can get yellow, red or blue. Also I would set the gap to .028 like someone else said.

There are parts suppliers out there. Can't think of it off hand, but like others said, it'll depend on what you're looking for.

I say cut and weld new sheet metal, rust preventative that, and then cover it all up with some sideskirts...that way you don't have to do a perfect job cosmetically on the parts.

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spoolude wrote: and potters talon isnt stock laser by the way...probably the closest to stock you can find around here