That Lincoln engine block should be nearly identical to the block you have now. It is a Ford 5.0l block. There aren't really a lot of differences between 5.0's when you start looking at the bare block. That stock shortblock will live for a long time at more HP then you will throw at it... even if you had a supercharger/nitrous on it. As long as you already have that mess of parts sitting there and are just needing a block, just get the block, put some new main bearings, rings, seals, oil pump & oil pump shaft, timing chain and sprockets and put that thing back together. You already have 90% of the stuff you need, and the rest won't cost a whole lot of money. Just get that block, do what you need to do and get her going again. It'll have plenty of power for ya for the mean time... besides... if you spend all the extra money for the machine work and 347 kit, Jamie will kick your ass... if she hasn't already.

oops sorry for starting the thread twice... my bad

I was thinking i want to boost my car... i was wondering if a 2nd gen dsm manifold would bolt up to my accord?

search the forum man...its not that old of a post...

i had corbeau CR1s which are adjustable reclining seats...i loved em..they come with a normal size that is 36'' waist and under and then the wide version...i would love to buy em again!!

i think it shorted when i was rewiring the ecu after disconnecting the VAFC. Wiring is fine, checked it. Its the solenoid.

lmao Right Stuff is nothing more than RTV gasket maker in a dispenser tube.

Dammit I am on vacation at that time I wanted to get the talon tuned.

i hit a curb a few years ago, and it was only about 250 at valley alignment in moorhead. not only was the frame straightened, but they did an alignment too (as redundant as that sounds...)

duh.... good idea. I'll talk to brandon.

I finally got donen with the POS. Put new plug wires on nad this time put that damn di-electric grease on there so they will come off easier. Car costed me way too much in the past 24 hours. New belt works just fine no squeaks. Found a place to run the 8 ga. through the firewall without drilling. Now I have a ghetto fab system in my car. Hatch stays open now which is ULTRA nice. Tomorrow I should be getting my J pipe, TB gaskets, o2 sensor. I will be putting on the FMIC that I bought from Jeremy. Can't wait to get that damn thing on there. I fucking hate heatsoak.

Yeah I used zip ties too.

A TIAL 38mm is plenty big for the turbo you plan on using.

oh...heh, my bad. Just saw innovative and well...you know.

well I drove my probe all winter and the only problem I had getting stuck was when I stoped in snow, around NDSU was where I had the most problems, I ussually had to rock my car out of the parking spot after class, but just driving around town was no problem

wannabe wrote: drive by wire is officially the stupidest thing EVER! talk about shitty throttle feedback. I guess it will be better tuned as the technol;ogy increases, but with like mini's and other DBW cars, the pressure of the pedal feels like poop. I think i would rather have a whistler tip WOO WOOOOOOO Other than the lag, which people try to tell me is caused by the pre-cats in the mazda6 and some emissions garbage the computer is doing, I honestly can't tell a difference. In fact, the pedal is still hooked up to a cable of sorts :rolleyes:

G-h-e-tt-o

Not the pads, they are tight, so are the discs, I'm rather positive that my 1966 mustang with rear drive does not have a cv joint or cv boot, if there is one it has a different name in the manual, let me know if it is.

i knew it wasnt bad once i ran codes.

well the things that need fixing shouldnt cost too much, i just figure right now im not really too worried about going fast so much as i want traction in the winter because i wont be getting a winter car and would actually like tires with tread on them. This way i'd kill 2 birds with 1 stone, new rims which ive always wanted, as well as tires with tread on them which i NEED.