missing cam
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Haha, it is a PIP sensor in there, so its only 1950s tech.
Anywho, it was just a shitty tap. I wasn't using oil, but it was not getting tough at all and then just snapped. That is what I get for being lazy and not wanting to drive all the way down to Sears to get a good tap. I ended up going down there anyway.
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whatd you do to clean the tops of the pistons while they were still in the motor? worried about anything being between the cylinder and pistons? an earlier pic looked like there was quite a bit of carbon build up
here a psht, there psht, everywhere a psht psht
PVC SQUAD MEMBER #2- 95 CIVIC EX- DD 320whp on a mustang dyno
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Yeah, there was quite a bit of carbon buildup. I used a wire wheel cup that you chuck up in the drill. I brought each piston to the top and cleaned it off and also cleaned off the block. Then, I took brake cleaner and sprayed down the cylinder and rotated the engine until I didn't see any crap left behind in the cylinders. I know that there is going to be some crap left over, but I am going to change my oil right away after I start it up to get some of the stuff cleaned out of there.
I have both heads on and torqued and the valvetrain re-assembled. Now I have to finish cleaning up the valve covers and then put the intake manifold back on and put 'er back together. I have more pics that I will put up soon.
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MisterCMK;185561 wrote:
Yup, they have that little pinch in them.I have both heads off and the pistons/block surface cleaned up and ready for the heads. I am working on tapping the block holes and will probably bolt the heads on tonight. Fucking autozone shit taps breaking off blow ass BTW
i hope you are not runing a tap:nonono: , you need to use a thread chaser all you are doing is cleaning your threads on the block, you may not see it but taps take a little amount of material off, and thets going to fuck with your torque numbers on your head bolts or studs.
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Actually what you want to use is a bottoming tap. It does not have the taper to it. The thread sizes are the same. It will let you reach the bottom of the hole.
Ngige is correct when he said it does affect torque values as you still have material at the bottom of the threads. -
thrash;185729 wrote:
this is the 4.6 engine right? is it 100% metric hardware now ?5.0 = Pushrod
4.6 = OHC5.0 = Easy to work on and fairly small dimensionally...note the room to work with in his engine bay
4.6 = Bitch to work on and picky as hell with mods, also larger than many big block engines.His Engine (5.0)
My Engine (4.6)
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MisterCMK;185753 wrote:
4.6 = shit5.0 = shit
fixed
here a psht, there psht, everywhere a psht psht
PVC SQUAD MEMBER #2- 95 CIVIC EX- DD 320whp on a mustang dyno
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MisterCMK;185753 wrote:
NA 4.6 = faster than NA HondaNA 5.0 = faster than NA Honda
Boosted 4.6 = faster than Boosted Honda
Boosted 5.0 = faster than Boosted Honda
Double Fixt for you Brandon
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Ford engine bays are a complete nightmare. Those pics make me squeamish. I had a 85 Bronco II with the V6 and that thing sucked something fierce.
Here's the engine bay of the 1991 BMW M5
3.6 liters, 24 valves, 6 throttle butterflies, 310hp, ~270ft/lbs, 7000 rpm, DOHC, shim-over-bucket.
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