tech on local scca eventgs is minimal, youll be fine.

more than likely to pull it all apart, u will need to stick it in the oven to heat up the adhesive.

Whenever something doesn't work for me, it usually ends up being "STEP 1" Does the object have power or is it plugged in.

I did try to set the idle-speed there is a way of doing it yes, i tried to do that but it wouldn't set possibly due to the idle up solonoid seeing as thats what my ECU is telling me.

Yep, actually the buyer wanted the stock steering wheel back in the red car, so I'm putting the Momo in the black heap. dh weshole;167929 wrote: Don't you mean.. HAD that in your red car?

integra_gsr98;167708 wrote: The EF, CRX, and DA Integras all needed the fuel tank dropped to get to the pump assembly itself. The only thing you can get to from under the seat is the fuel level sender. They switched to under the seat for the whole assembly w/ the EG Civics and the DC Integras. thanks for the knowledge, cuz knowledge is power :icon_thumright:

the one in the junkyard has no title.... calebs i mean

I think I want titanium ones anway. I am also going to get a titanium bolt kit for my engine to save 1.5lbs. :lol:

DrifterExtreme;167696 wrote: maybe a rotor out of a rotary engine..... but anyways... go to M&J or quality there both good but you might have to wait a lil bit at quality as they seem to be backed up alot... EDIT: damn it faber you post whore damn it.....:faq-roll: LOL! I send most my stuff to quality. If I need it asap it goes to Bergs.

how perfect do you need it to be? I've not done bodywork like this before, but I do have a lot of experience in fiberglass. I'm fairly confident I could do this and get it within 95% of stock looking (a bodyshop should be able to quickly finish anything that my untrained eye misses)

I have done them before and i would just send it out so you know that it is warrentied, Just my 2cents

thrash, the specific alignment procedures you are describing are all to the word for OEM ones, which in this part of the country will be needed to be done at the dealership. I know we dont have a BMW dealer, but I dont know of a shop in town who aligns 20 of them a day for the past 30 years to know exactly the specific procedure to align it. We align more new cars than older ones (0-5 year old), GM, Ford, Chrysler, Honda, Toyota. Not very many Euros. Any older and it is mostly due to replacing parts that are worn and require alignments afterwords. And if I was the one who aligned your car, I would have commented on additional work/parts required to get a OEM alignment. We dont have BMW weights lieing around to place on the seats and trunk to get it to the specific ride height. Our alignment machine has procedures and specs for a lot of vehicles out there, but it does leave out certain ones due to OEM setups. Our shop wont buy a $800 BMW/Audi specific software with all procedures and specs due to not doing these all the time. That procedure is a good $200-350 alignment from the dealer, we would charge similar if we had all the proper tools.

That's pretty sweet being able to fill E85 or premium depending on what's available without switching maps. Nice work.

94NDTA;166039 wrote: I don't get what you just said. I'm sorry. Go to www.car-part.com. Do a search for whatever window (glass) you need for your vehicle. Take note if Hazers comes up as a result with the correct window for you. Call or go to Hazers and tell them that you found a window listed on www.car-part.com (the internet) which they are supposed to have in stock. If they have it, it should be cheap. When I bought a window from them it was a brand new aftermarket (non OEM) window, and it was $35. If you don't specify that you saw this window on a website, they will tell you a much higher price. I don't know about front or rear windshields, but door glass should be cheap.

i got my tranny out and i noticed a few pieces of metal just hanging out by my clutch. this is a pic of my old throw out bering- the one that come with the act clutch kit. notice the back plate is broke in half and the bering was barely attached to the fork. i'm putting a mitsu throw out bering in. thanks for the advise [image: old%20throw%20out%20bering.JPG]

mind as well buy a new engine i looked up on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-3SGTE-86-89-CELICA-ENGINE-AND-TRANSMISSION_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33615QQihZ006QQitemZ160108886744QQrdZ1

Can anyone get me a deal on sunroof motors? I have a Holandia sunroof and need a new motor for it.

The JDM "black top" ZC's can have some good potential though. They make great turbo motors for the money and are direct bolt-ins for EF's.

I would kill for a Mazda RX7 or a Toyota Supra TT, but both those cars retail value's are through the roof...so there's no chance in hell that I would be able to afford them.

SPANISH-RICE;163579 wrote: lol @ you ryan only way to know 100% whats wrong with it