[QUOTE=PSI2HI]I order them from a guy who has a CNC mill down in WI. I thought that shane laskey had all your flanges cut on the laser at standard industries, but i suppose they dont cut stainless that thick.

Damn Nick, Sls just keep's getting better and better. AWSOME!

JamesonTSI-AWD wrote: yeah the cold is tuff for reverse sometimes but i have had the problem without the extreme cold, just put it in fourth and let off the clutch just a very little bit, and then put it in reverse quick, works everytime man as far as the syncromesh, i wouldnt go with penzoil, i dont know if the put perafin in there like they do with there oil, but if they do it is no good, it is like a wax that will coat the gears, and builds up. i have seen some bad stuff happen to motors with penzoil! NO PENZOIL! haha Gm and Pennzoil Syncromesh are the same!!! Pennziol makes it for GM and has the same part number.. But i wouldnt use it.... lol Kevin sls

Dave, you wondering if he could do some 5in pipes for ya?

Go thermal...best sounding exhaust evar.

jct_4628 wrote: well now we broke up so I might ask for it back! haha...then I could have 2 amps in my blazer and it would look like hydraulics! and then get the vire vwheels on it essay, youll have it all then J/K

wannabe wrote: I believe with OBDII they changed the proper term to MIL (malfunction Indicator Light) just had to throw in some useless knowledge from highschool auto shop btw... got everything squared away... she's running like a champ.

that setup looks different on an integra. I'm used to seeing it on dsms. Looks good, alot bigger than the last one.

integra_gsr98 wrote: Yah. Price you gotta pay to try and go fast with a little tiny motor I guess. Just get some direct port, youll be good

97Cav wrote: what kind of car put out that power? The car was a DSM out of the cities.

integra_gsr98 wrote: The hood shuts just fine. Turbo is a t67. T67, thats a biggen.

You cannot just splice into the wires. You can t the sender off of the back of the block though. 1/8 NTP -> -4AN adapter threads into the back of the block where the dummy light sender threads in, then run a 6" -4AN line up to a brass T. Then off of the brass t you will have the stock dummy light sender on one side, and the autometer sender on the other side. I cannot remember if you have to do something similar for the water temp or not...

PSI2HI wrote: Not really. Ok small step, but its stainless, and looks alot better.

holy crap. thats alot of torque

it is indeed mr hogue

should do 350whp pretty easy. it is a built motor so no worrying about the chrysler parts breaking haha the 95s i beleive have returns

If you cant access it from the floorpan/beneath seat, you'll have to drop the tamk. It's located in the tank on that vehicle. Hope it isn't full of gas.

well I've kinda gone in a circle as far as what I want... but I know that I need to cars... one to be reliable, and one to fun/fast... either a dsm or an rx-7, whatever... neither are going to be reliable. just depends on how expensive the fun/fast car is to decide what kind of dd I have.

Yeah, the intercoolers are 3-4" thick, but they aren't the most efficient. There is zero room for much else, without radiator relocation and such. Inner fenders were cut a little to suck the plumbing up off the ground (the owner lives on a mile of gravel :eek: ) We'll see how well the I/C work, I guess- probably putting it on the dyno on tuesday or so. IAT's don't lie!!! andy

well he went to buy it in sd and found out the belt was broke