my TXS BOV was a bolt on as well. Just had to shim the spring a bit, but other than that, very plug and play.

i second the recommendation on the Es tuning muffler, i had one, it was great.

Nope

I'll say this. If it's that rusty in the quarters, then what does it look like underneath? There's no way the undercarriage has been spared. And there is no easy way to fix that. I'd take a hard look at the rear suspension, brake lines, and suspension mounting points. Anyone that knows Hondas knows that they are notorious for rusting there first. Just my .02.

have no idea ill find out when i rip it apart after i get out of pracs...

I'd say leave them how they are but if you want to paint them, color match the lip to your car.

KA-T_240 wrote: I know what your saying, the manual just doesnt give intructions on how set it properly. Bring it over when it's time and I'll set it up...I did mine in about 5 mins on my 240.

cool then i think im set

An intake will help 10-15 hp over stock.. Fuck the drop in filter thats gay. If you over boost there is one of 3 problems Cut vac line to the wastegate, or hose off. Also could have the vac lines on wrong. ECU has been re-flashed by a retard.. Boost control is set up wrong or defulty Im pretty sure I could fix it but id have to charge you! My .02 O ya I dont work on cars.. good luck..

Ok thanks, so the H series were in ludes and some JDM accords. I was just wondering because I found an engine that was out of one that was a 2.2l **** and they didnt know what series it was, and I didnt know which cars had the H's in them.

thrash wrote: Sportscar Engineering in Moorhead has an alignment shop he recommends, but I didn't deal with the alignment shop directly. He's an old school VW racer so I don't think he'd suggest anyone bad. They did my Audi and I have no complaints, but I didn't ask for anything out of the ordinary. As a point in comparison, the tire place next to Kennedy Transmission on 13th Ave S is NOT where you should take your car. I had to show the damn tech how to adjust the camber on my audi.. he insisted it was non adjustable even after i showed him which nuts to loosen. You're talking about Tires Plus, don't deal with them (at least that shop, I have no problems with the one in Fergus Falls, Wes is a good guy) The one on 13th doesnt know shit and they're douchebags, trust me I worked there and told them to get fucked.

Well it looks like I'm going to order a B16 with LSD if HMO ever gets them back in stock.

Ya, I have a 1:1 FPR also. FMU's should go in the trash!

i had the standard big16g evo3 turbo.....it was decent.

dynotune wrote: . I got a 6.0L (402) going in a C5 right now also, but equipped with a pair of 67s :icon_thumright: :icon_puke_r:

Test the idle valve. The middle wire is power. The two outer wires are control circuits. Monitor the duty cycle for the idle valve. On the outside wires, it should be about a 60/ 40 split or half battery voltage on each of the outer pins. If it still hangs high, try supplying a ground to each of the outer pins on the valve. It should be able to drive the idle valve up and down. If not, the valve is bad or there is a voltage drop on the supply pin. Tech can also ohm out the valve by going from the common middle pin to the two outside ones. It should be the same on both pins.

wannabe wrote: wtf is No2? Whoops! :icon_blackeye:

ya its in the phone book and its my auto finance super center

Custom Intake. boost controllers are like $40 for a manual one and are easy to install.