High revving LS's are a myth these days anyways. Good rod bolts and away you go. That is all that really matters with them. That, and not having the LS head on there that is. If anybody has seen the internals of an LS head it is scary to say the least. Good numbers Sean.

like i said, big puzzle. from what I have researched, it is a solid state device in place of a relay, designed to send power to the mirrors for when you turn off the ignition. should be inputs of ignition power, parking brake, and outputs that I dont know where go. The ONLY matching wire with the rest of the system is a white and red, that only matches with one of the mirror control wires on the passenger side. Otherwise, I have no clue as to how to wire it in. I can bypass the relay all together, and have only control of the mirrors with the manual switch, but that defeats the purpose of having them fold in when you turn the ignition off. I believe they added the parking brake feature on my car in Japan, and decided to go with the solid state control device instead of a full mechanical relay. So, thats my delima and have no freakin clue as to how to get it to work. AND, not many people over here have wired them in. Everyone in Japan that I have talked to said that there isn't much for service manuals over there that would have wiring diagrams. But there are a few people that are suppose to get back to me both in the UK and Japan. Any other inputs? Ry

well, then, once i get a chip and my datalogging cable(and the motor in my car) thats what i will do

get anticorrosion rings. Can be bought anywhere that sells car stuff for 2 bucks.

Need to get the heads to my ford ranger redone. anyone have any recommendations?

good detail matt. I can help you with it jon. I did it on the probe already once. Pin, His car is RWD, its not just to say he has a battery in his trunk. He needs space under the hood and as much weight as he can get over the back wheels.

Okay- I am not proficient with the non svt focus, but I may can probably see what's going on here. 1st- if the car runs fine or better w/o the CAI on it, the CAI is junk (common) or you have a vacuum leak between the MAF and the throttle body. You can also pull the MAF out and spray the element with carb clean and let AIR DRY (should only take a couple of minutes) Alot of times the reusable filters end up sending oil onto the MAF element and it gets dirty. As far as JET modules are concerned, I have had little if any luck with any of there products whatsoever, but I would double check your wiring. I have never installed such a system, and I don't know why you should have to wire a bunch of crap (there is good stuff from your local diablosport dealer... ) If the car ran fine before, your MAF is NOT screwed up unless you messed it up. Put your stock parts on and make sure everything runs right there first before you condemn the factory parts. It is common to have idle issues with cold air kits (fuel trims get out of whack, ect.) It can be corrected sometimes and sometimes the kits are just junk. I would call JET and get tech from them on that problem. If it is installed incorrectly you can and will be buying a PCM, so make sure to have that correct. If it is faulty they will get it diagnosed and hopefully replaced/ repaired.

weshole wrote: Are you sure the motor isnt on? It could be that the motor is on and the wipers just aren't moving with the motor. If so, the arms may be attached to the stud via nut which just needs to be tightened down a little. At the base of the arm, there may be a cover you have to pry off to get to the nut. Gently pry it off and the nut shopuld be underneath. If so equiped, just tighten it down till snug and your set. But make sure you vehicle is off and the wipers are in the park position. Ill check that out, hopefully thats all. I was kinda thinking the motor was probably blown so hopefully its something stupid like this....

the car isn't ghetto the wiring is. it makes joels(sorry joel) work look like a mercedes and that work look like something that is to crappy to be in a scrapyard

Jim wrote: Don't worry about crankwalk. If it happens, it happens. Shit, it can happen to alot of different cars. Drive it, enjoy it, and fix it when it breaks. There's something about DSM's that's addicting and fun... hence why most people who have one, have had atleast a second (or 13 lol) Dude I love the AWD and the way it feels while driving it(seat position etc.) but still love the hondas for the light weight feel ya know. Not a bad car for DD though I might add. Gettin a new boost gauge and I have a extra boost controller, thinkin bout turnin up boost alittle< what's safe? Without AFC. And about a FCD or cut the MAF??

92BlackTT wrote: oh well. afc, injectors, 20lbs?.. now you have no excuse for not breaking into the 14's well I hope I can get there pretty much where I sit, but I am pretty sure I will need a pump to not hit the damn fuel cut

wannabe wrote: frietag doesnt have a honda or a license anymore, thats what you get for driving like a dumbass. Dude, get off his back. Everyone makes mistakes.

Is there anyway to repair the radiator mount or could I just easily enought find on in a JY? Edit: On the headlights I like the eyelids like your, but also like the projector style ones. Whats your opinion? Its probably the eyelids but I would be doing almost the whole front end.

ah, yeah i see how i can make some slight releif cuts in my panels, thanks

no its 5x114(.3)

Check your PM's. If you want I can stop by tomorrow (after 2:00) and throw some ideas at you.

97lt1 wrote: I know there is a DLC on OBDI cars, I just don't think autozone will scan them. advanced will... if your CEL bulb wasn't dead you could do it yourself with a piece of wire too.....but that's obvioiusly out.

his nickname isnt a honda car for no reason...

Also if you rotate the cams so that the arrows point straight up, you should be able to use a couple small picks, or allen wrenches to hold them in position. There are small holes going downward through the plates that bolt down on top of the cam caps, and the cams have holes in them also, so that you can do this. I don't know if aftermarket cams have these holes in them, but stock cams should.

I know, my good fitting front/rear were more than made up for by the side skirts fitting like ass though (I do have gaps there)