pm'd bah 10 characters!

thanx for allthe info and help...

vtak ftw too short

JoKeR wrote: Ya can't even tell us the type of Camaro??, year, color or anything, im very curious... Well I said before I am looking for a LT1 for it, so that will give you a idea of the body style. I figure this one I will keep to myself until its finished. But gotta sell the CRX first. Mike

MisterCMK wrote: psh, don't bother doing a clutch! clutches are gaysauce. You should weld the input shaft right to the flywheel. Ya and technically your car would be a hybrid if you went that way.. Run out of gas, just turn the key forward in the starting position and steer away, let's hope your near a gas station :icon_salut:

aliengotpsi wrote: Tony, it will never look good by trying to (Repair it) Sorry Yeah, thats what I was afraid of, oh well that just means I will most likely buy a seibon when the time comes, but I will have to wait a little longer. I was just thinking of painting over that part but I think it would be hard to make it look good with that extensive of cracking. I would just as well paint the whole thing and that just wouldn't be the same. Oh well. Thanks for the help.

someone plz help i need to figure this out or if n e one has a 1990 turbo ecu

97jeep wrote: looks awosme, are those L rims yes they are L rims

i also have the same question. but that bottom of torbs sig, wins

treimche wrote: Just burn it and save the headaches. Thats the truth ..... i was gunna say just drive it off a cliff or somthing but burn it and save the headaches sounds better :icon_thumright:

if its obd 2 i got a pretty scan tool u can stop by and use.

Ok, got a better estimate....well, at least more accurate since its a different engine. Youre looking at approx $410, that labor for both belts and sensor, along with parts on both belts and cranks sensor. I usually like to replace other parts in these engines (similar to talon/eclipse/laser) like the hydralic tensioner (got one in the shop right now that slacked up too much and bent all intake valves), both tensioner and idler pulleys, along with camshaft seals too. If this vehicle has low miles (like 60K) you should be fine to go another round with these parts till 120K service. Otherwise if you are in the 90-120K range right now, you might wanna rethink replacing these parts too so you dont end up...well, you know. Anyways, just let me know. Ry

leeroy did my muffler, 10 bucks lol

Fargo wrote: Northern Engine, there stuff is not anondized I think their fittings similar to that pic are steel or something like that, they're cheaper than the aluminum ones you can get at Barker racing or Performance Auto.

need....more....time.....arrrgggg

ok guys thanks, thats all i needed to know, this one probably has like 5mm of up and down shaft play, i will stay away from it, thanks alot

btleier wrote: take out all the emissions stuff, and your problem is solved i like that idea the best :icon_thumright:

94NDTA wrote: What did you get done and where? Damn, were gonna have some pretty quick 4th gens at the track this year! There are going to be quite a few, it's about time we got our shit together.

ya Im doing a 2/4 drop on it

where is the best place to go to get interior work done, factory reconditioning and or custom. thanks